BarryC wrote:Louis,After watching you build two versions of the M-113 basically from two different kits except for the chassis you've got me on the hunt for the Verlinden kit. It appears to be the best approach.Your thoughts?
Barry, I was asking myself the same question if I was to redo both, and I know I will do another one day... Here are my thoughts.
Tub and suspension; The only thing in common with the two builds are the Ludwig tub and Taigen Panther suspension with metal blades. The metal blades on Ludwigs plastic casing is rough and does not work that well, but the Taigen elements fit the Ludwigs tub design and is convenient. I just noticed that Tank-Modellbau is advertising a new M-113 suspension set that i would likely give it a try on a future build. I just wish Christian had put 1mm more between each suspension hole, allowing more space between road wheels.
Detailing: The new information that came to light for me as a surprise during the two builds is that the Verlinden kit is not 1/15, but actually 1/16 and a good fit for the Ludwigs tub. Use of the Verlinden kit is therefore a good way to detail an accurate 1/16 model, and save a lot of time and energy. It would be difficult for any builder to get to the same level of details by scratch building but use of small photo-etched metal parts in many areas is complex. When I think of the weeks I spent on the ACAV on scratch building the trim vane, commander cupola, driver hatch, headlights, grills and the interior, i think it is worth the $400-600 spent on a new kit on ebay. Being able to buy a used static kit and rebuild it into a RC was a big money saver for me, my best $93 spent on modelling. I therefore recommend the Verlinden kit for front, top, rear and interior.
Motorization; the simplest and more efficient way is to use a HL gearbox, with Ludwigs sprockets and HL PzIII tracks as with the ACAV build, but it is then not possible to have a detailed driver area. Use of Tank-Modellbau tracks and sprocket was relatively easy but there is no readily available and affordable motorization for these available on the market. So, i had to look for some home made gearbox and while i was studying use of motors with a planetary gearbox and 4mm drive shafts, i noticed i could position them in a way that would allow the driver area to be detailed. So, both motorizations are ok i guess but it depends on your needs. I have not experimented yet on how long the motors with planetary gearbox will last... I recommend avoiding cheap versions from China that sells for a few bucks and go with the best ones available on the market.
Road wheels; Shapeways road wheels are ok and have the right dimension but should have 8 screw holes instead of 10. It is mostly a "spare road wheel" so the whole axel arrangement and hub cap need to be designed by the builder, it's not easy. Verlinden road wheels are of the right dimensions (i reduced them by 1mm in diameter to fit the Ludwigs spacing), are molded in thick resin and pretty solid, and can easily be adapted to RC with flanged ball bearings. They have the right 8 screws and come with the hub cap. They come with the Verlinden kit so they are readily available, and cheap to convert. MK Modellbau sells metal M113 roadwheels in various available shaft sizes, but i found them to be too wide and the use of shrink tubes to simulate the rubber ring was not obvious to me. They have 10 screw holes instead of 8. The mounting on the Taigen Panther suspension arms was not working for me so i had to return them after thorough analysis. They might be a better fit with the new Tank-Modellbau or Panzer III suspension arms.
Tracks; Other than PzIII tracks, the only alternative i saw is the Tank-Modellbau M113 metal tracks with rubber pads. They are expensive and i did not have a chance yet to fully experiment with them. As with any metal tracks, they are running rough at first but hope for the best later with some oil. They require their specific metal sprockets that have a 4mm shaft and do not fit HL gearbox, so no obvious integration available. They represent the type of tracks used by European countries and Canada and are not an accurate fit for US M-113. The Tank-Modellbau metal idler is good.
ACAV; The Verlinden ACAV conversion kit currently on sale on ebay for $12 in large quantity by one vendor is a bargain considering that I looked for one for years and the cheapest i saw before that went up to $50. It fit any kit perfectly. I bought 2 more, mostly for the nice M60 machine guns that come with it.
Regards, Louis
