Centurion Mk III Scratch build

[AlwynTurner]

And so it begins







Looking at the 1/35 model some of the Chieftain parts are almost identical, some like the suspension will need changes.

Let the fun begin!

Alwyn

[Soeren]

Cool. If Tamiya would just do a proper detailed kit for this. I would even be interested in their RC Cent. But not muich oob or upgrades for detailing.

[midlife306]

I’m all over it Alwyn, Iv just got my grubby bands on my 1/35th
Cheers
Wayne


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[Ad Lav]

Nice, good luck.

I sold the Ludwigs one recently but it was a good kit. Bit expensive mind you.

[AlwynTurner]

Wayne, just a timely reminder not to glue the track covers to the lower hull!

Yes the Ludwig kit is fantastic but who has 800 Euros plus shipping plus plus (not me anyway )?


Alwyn

[midlife306]

Ohh, I’m rolling around on the floor Alwyn
Cheers
Wayne


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[AlwynTurner]

The lower hull is progressing nicely


I assembled the pieces and then reinforced the sides/front/back with an extra layer of 2mm styrene, it's now solid.
The suspension is now done and comprises 2 versions, the centre suspension which has no return roller. The suspension unit itself is different to the Chieftain suspension unit but the swing arms and spring bracket are the same




I think Waynes printer is about to melt

Alwyn

[Ad Lav]

I wouldn’t go using the Tamiya 1/35 kit as reference - the afv club ones are much much better.

Road wheels should be same diameter as comet etc too

[midlife306]

My printer is cowering in the corner
Thanks Alwyn!!
Cheers
Wayne


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[Peter W]

Is all the styrene 2mm ? How do you cut it ? I have mixed results cutting 2mm and thicker.

Peter

[midlife306]

15 cuts with the back of an exacto blade, keeping blade square against a metal ruler, should bend & snap cleanly. Always being careful not to sever a digit..
Cheers
Wayne

[Son of a gun-ner]

Also either get a non slip metal ruler to cut against, or put a thin non slip something or other on one side of a steel ruler.

[Ad Lav]

You should try a p cutter and a steel ruler for the straight cuts.

[AlwynTurner]

When cutting styrene you need a really good hobby knife, such as this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modelcraft-Pre ... B00VG28S9G

The important thing is to get a knife which is all metal, i.e. the blade grip must be metal not plastic - if plastic it will snap.

The actual cut is done first by lightly scoring the styrene, then using successive heavier scores until the styrene is cut at least half way through, the styrene can then be snapped cleanly. Also you will need a heavy duty smooth edge ruler, and I stick some of this on the back of the ruler
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Grip-Ad ... KnsTjUlGsQ
which should stop the ruler from moving on the styrene

Alwyn

[Ad Lav]

https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/produc ... criber-ii/

Look forward to your turret - Ludwigs one was 3d printed then a resin one was made from ge original.

[Peter W]

Thanks chaps. Sounds like I am not doing enough cuts. I tend to use a no.4 scalpel and am very careful with safety

Peter

[Son of a gun-ner]

I use a Stanley knife, and you can get hooked blades for them like some lino layers use.

I've cut acrylic sheet with them in a Stanley knife.

[midlife306]

Hi Alwyn,
Can you confirm the size of the front panel please, drg has 2 upper widths & 2 heights.
I've got all the other pieces cut
Cheers
Wayne

[AlwynTurner]

Hi Wayne, note that th font panel sticks up above the side panels. The width at the bottom should be the same as your bottom panel width. The width at the top on mine is 108.5mm. The height is 43mm. The width at the height of the side panels is 103mm.

Hope that helps,

Alwyn

[midlife306]

Ahhh, magic, thanks Alwyn
Cheers
Wayne


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