Asiatam StuG IV conversion kit...

[43rdRecceReg]

I find It's always useful to stop, from time to time, and digest the progress- or not- of a particular build project. Not unlike the artist squinting (that removes inessential detail) and taking thumbnail sketches of his (or her) handiwork..and subject, of course..
This is the current state of progress:

Asiatam StuG IV- image update check

If you look along the diamond plate of the fenders/walkways, you'll see that the Upper hull is pretty straight. When the front glacis is tacked down, the profile looks as straight as it needs to be. That's a relief, after all the hours
spent boiling, baking, and finally chiropracting the wayward sway in it's back..
Here's the grey primer I used, from Tamiya. It's Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer. It helps not only to prime the model, but also highlights surface details; some of which might need correcting later on.
So far, this is the best rattle can primer I've used, though it's not the cheapest. It's also formulated for metals, as well as plastic, and it really does stick to metals very well, unlike the Vallejo (Dunkelgelb primer) and Humbrol products I've used hitherto..

Asiatam StuG IV- with a coat of Tamiya grey primer

[43rdRecceReg]

Taking a pause also helps in formulating the next steps. Long term, I thought I'd try the latest offering from Taigen: the V2 motherboard, and V5 package. As much as anything, I really wanted to see how much of an improvement it is. The fact that it can be paired with a hobby grade TX, and also (so the blurb claims) with the open Panzer TCB too, hints at an attractive flexibility in future...
Anyway, I ordered the kit from Dave (Forgebear), and- as if by magic- it appeared yesterday, in no time at all. Given how long deliveries to the Highlands can take, it almost feels as if this had been dropped off by the Forgebear Drone.
Thanks, Dave. Great stuff- as ever

Taigen V2-V5 package from Forgebear

You'll see the Taigen recoil /elevation unit in a bag there too, as well as this: Fiat LUX..

Taigen xenon gun flash unit...

With this, and some wiring I can strip out of an upper hull (HL Pz IV), I should have enough parts to populate the StuG's interior. Given the damburst of cash spent on the Tamiya Pz IV build, this one really has to be economical...

[c.rainford73]

Looking forward to your installation and review of the latest electronics

[43rdRecceReg]

A little more work on the exterior of the Casemate. There's an extra armour plate that bolsters the front plate of the Casemate- to the left of the Sow's head.

Asiatam StuG IV- extra frontal casement armour plate

I've seen the plate mounted on some actual WW2 StuG IVs, but not a good close up of the front. I can't believe the plate would overlap like that; but for the moment, though, it will have to do. I can always trim it later. It might have been handy if it had been made the right size in the first valve- ah,... but that would spoil the corrective fun.
Now for some hinges for the Machine Gunner/Loader's hatch.

StuG IV- making hinges for M. Gunner's hatch

Boy, these are not meant for old eyes and fingers! Still..nothing ventured, eh?
You can see the appalling crudity of the fact parts. There's something else as well. When the parts are sawn, or abraded, I could swear that these are minuscule wood fibres mixed in with the resin. Maybe that's why it's so difficult to get the parts to adhere to one another.. I really don't like this resin kits- well THIS resin kit. I've yet to try other brands, however.

StuG IV Loaders' hatch hinges assembled

I usually suggest you 'Click to ENLARGE' the pics at this point, but these hatch parts are really ugly to behold Now....if this were a Russian tank, then the components would tally quite closely with WW2 facotory standards

[43rdRecceReg]

Assembling the hinges in badly moulded recesses, with cockeyed drill holes, is tricky enough but getting them to sit without wobbling in the Casemate roof is the next unwelcome surprise. In fact, delete 'surprise'..because it's not.
After twenty minuted of delicate trimming and shaving with a Tamiya scalpel, one side just about sits, as it should, in the target aperture...

Asiatam StuG IV- Loader's hatch partially fitted

The other side requires the casemate half of the hinge to be mounted vertically. Each hinge (above) has two holes for corresponding studs on the Casemate. Er...but the Casemate has only one stud, and the intended recess
is also badly formed. That's for another day.. Teatime.

[c.rainford73]

Roy I admire your determination and you are making great progress with the build.

Keep up the great work

[Ad Lav]

Looks pretty smart! Good work.

[Raminator]

Here's the grey primer I used, from Tamiya. It's Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer. It helps not only to prime the model, but also highlights surface details; some of which might need correcting later on.
So far, this is the best rattle can primer I've used, though it's not the cheapest. It's also formulated for metals, as well as plastic, and it really does stick to metals very well, unlike the Vallejo (Dunkelgelb primer) and Humbrol products I've used hitherto..

Asiatam StuG IV- StuG with Tamiya grey primer.jpeg

Be wary of its advertised metal-bonding properties, Roy. I used the same Tamiya primer on my T-34 and had lots of trouble with it flaking and chipping off metal parts; it was half the impetus for my recent re-do. It could be down to atmospheric conditions during application (I'm sure the heat and humidity here aren't ideal), but I found that it laid down grainy and didn't bond well to the pot metal (or at all to aluminium). I would certainly not trust it for running gear.

[jarndice]

Anything metal on my builds without exception gets a liberal amount of Acrylic Thinners to clean the surface followed by lots of Etching Primer,
I learnt the hard way after watching my hard work destroyed when the top coat would only "take" in parts,
A lot of bad language and time went into the fix, Never again.
Shaun.

[43rdRecceReg]

Here's the grey primer I used, from Tamiya. It's Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer. It helps not only to prime the model, but also highlights surface details; some of which might need correcting later on.
So far, this is the best rattle can primer I've used, though it's not the cheapest. It's also formulated for metals, as well as plastic, and it really does stick to metals very well, unlike the Vallejo (Dunkelgelb primer) and Humbrol products I've used hitherto..

Asiatam StuG IV- StuG with Tamiya grey primer.jpeg

Be wary of its advertised metal-bonding properties, Roy. I used the same Tamiya primer on my T-34 and had lots of trouble with it flaking and chipping off metal parts; it was half the impetus for my recent re-do. It could be down to atmospheric conditions during application (I'm sure the heat and humidity here aren't ideal), but I found that it laid down grainy and didn't bond well to the pot metal (or at all to aluminium). I would certainly not trust it for running gear.

Environment can certainly be a significant factor, Dan. However, when I used Vallejo and Humbrol primers in otherwise ideal conditions, the Vallejo (specifically Dungelgelb primer) seem to curl up and die after a few days.
Humbrol, I quite like in general, but if flaked off the barrel of My Cromwell, taking the carefully applied coat of olive drab with it. Where metal is present, I always (and did in those instances) use an etching metal primer before the base primer layer. Thus far, the combination of metal primer and Tamiya Grey has given me really good results, with no hint of paint dandruff or eczema!
All the more remarkable, as it's mid-Winter here. But on sunny still, day- rare though they are- it's still possible to get a decent coat on (whilst wearing a decent coat ). Much to my surprise the conditions seem to favour a spot of daubing.