Plastic safe lubricants

[Dusty Steppes]

I got tired of the mess grease creates on the open style transmissions so I tried some electrical contact cleaner that I have used in the past to clean potentiometers and tube sockets in antique radios. It is called De-Ox-Id, manufactured by GNC. It removes oxidation and leaves a light film of mineral oil on the surface after it evaporates. I applied it to the teeth of the gears of a new set of Taigen V2 4:1 transmissions. It appears to have reduced the noise of the transmissions and they seem to run smoother than they did right out of the box. Time will tell how well this will work but I don't have a greasy mess.

I did stumble across this chart on lubricants and plastics while doing some research and thought I would pass it on.

http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_ch ... chart.html

[43rdRecceReg]

I use contact cleaners on car electrics, as well as in certain hi-fi settings. Reading the product details, it's often the case that I found them described to be 'safe on most plastics'. But cleaners are just that: cleaners. For lubricants you'll need something like the special grease supplied with Tamiya models by Tamiya (or bought separately). This gear and shaft lubricant is described as safe on plastics, as is the bearing grease they supply in wee blue tubes. WD40 make specialised dry lubricants, and Shaun (Capn. Jarndice) is a fan and advocate of specific types (see 'Search' option to find threads on the topic). Others here have found their own means of keeping their precious beasties rolling....and keeping expensive grinding noises to a minimum. Mind you, creaking tank sounds are what we recognise these war machines by in the landscape..

[Dusty Steppes]

I normally use white lithium grease. The other day I was running a Panzer IV that I had set up with the original Taigen steel 4:1 transmissions that were liberally greased up and all of a sudden the right side locked up and it spun to the right. I stopped it and as I took a step towards it I detected the distinctive smell of hot electronics. Opened it up and the right hand transmission was seized up. The motor and the TK22 both smelled hot. I replaced the transmissions with new V2s and thought I would try a different lubricant. I used a brush to apply the De-Ox-Id in order to avoid getting it all over the interior. After it evaporated I was left with the gears having a light coat of mineral oil that doesn't appear to be getting sprayed against my splatter shield. Unfortunately it looks as if the TK22 now has a heat related problem. After running it awhile the tank stutters in reverse and if you keep driving it the circuit that controls the transmissions shuts down completely. It doesn't do this when the tracks are suspended. It only happens while the tank is being driven. So I ordered a replacement TK22 and I may have to get some freeze spray to determine which components are failing while it is under load.