Jagdpanther G2 base on Heng Long Hull

[Raminator]

"Panther in the field" Made a test run today. Two Things. I didnt manage to find the Setting for the Recoil on the IBU2, no matter what time I set, it was either too Long or too short. After a few shots the cycle was incomplete. I tried from 500ms - 2500ms. Anybody knows the best Setting? 2nd; suddenly the tank began to smoke, after quickly shutting it down I realized the volume cable was molten on the black wire . Anybody have an idea how that can happen? I was using the Standard Taigen cables and a Visaton 10w Speaker.

These are the settings I used for my T-34:

Code: Select all

RecoilTimeDigital=500
RecoilTimeServo=400
RecoilTimeServoReturn=800
RecoilInverseCmd=False

The standard cables are very thin and at 10W the IBU2's audio amplifier would be pushing a decent amount of current. I wouldn't have thought it'd be enough to overheat anything, but if you check your wiring and nothing's shorted out you should probably invest in a better potentiometer and some thicker wires. You should be able to buy them at any electronics shop, you just need a 10k ohm linear pot.

[Soeren]

Thanks, I was looking for potys already and wondered what type I would need. As for the recoil, are you running the new recoil/elevation unit? In the hl Panther turrret those 500ms were enough. Not so much in the new one. The pity with that is, it doesn't reset after the shot. I might gonna strip it asap and run a servo recoil instead of bothering with the settings.

[Soeren]

A bit work done. Added the hanger oins and chains to right side, and found, that after painting they dont fit the holes anymore, although I drilled them up a bit. Will paint them when fitted then. Soldered the 14 Pins for the Panther G no waiting for assembly. Painted the numbers to the Jagdpanther after the decals were crap. Looks nice now, with the Rests of the decals still present in part, I intended to do a renumbering and sprayed the back number on a redone redbrown Background. Here is a quick semiassembly Picture, with the wheels on one side attached. The parts were primes with Vallejo primer, it is crap for that, flakes off after even light contact. Now I am planning to rework all those "chips" as if those were real chips.

[Raminator]

Thanks, I was looking for potys already and wondered what type I would need. As for the recoil, are you running the new recoil/elevation unit? In the hl Panther turrret those 500ms were enough. Not so much in the new one. The pity with that is, it doesn't reset after the shot. I might gonna strip it asap and run a servo recoil instead of bothering with the settings.

Oh sorry, I thought you were already using a servo. I'm not 100% sure on the mechanical recoil, but I remember reading that some of them need much longer times. Try 1000 and cutting it down if you get more than one cycle from a shot.

[HERMAN BIX]

I wasn't sure about the cam pattern to begin with, but wow, what a difference other features make to a paint job !
The numbers put the 'worm' lines in perspective & scale, and the primer patch on the stowage bin is a great touch
Cant wait to see how the various filters and washes work on the over all finish

Its going to ring my bell big time I can tell

[Soeren]

I was hesitant with the camo as well at first. You know, one can try it on a scrap piece, but it still is completely different on the particular tank. Still, after applying the clear coat,it already changed the appearance in that the reseda looks much more "correct" in the sense of doing the job. Also while spending time in nature during the last weeks, I found the colors more and more matching the actual landscape. Sure, the whole paintjob is guesswork, but based on historical schemes and colors available during that time. Next will be the pinwash as the gloss coat was already applied. Then satin varnish and filters. Also I nearly finished the fire extinguisher and mount that I can attach.

[Soeren]

Small Progress, I had to Strip most of the paint from the middle wheels. The Polyurethan Vallejo primer doesnt stick to the metal wheels and jsut flakes off like masking fluid on the lightest touch. Unfortunately, although I was using a wire brush, some of the stuff is still on and flaking. Now, the way this all comes out is deciding how it wants to be weathered. Funny, never had a piece of scale model deciding the way of weathering for itself. Maybe this is my "Crazy Joe"? Anyways, to cover that up, it needs some sort of mud.

Then, I went ahead an assembled the fire extinguisher and added the shovel (not attached yet, will need paintig), but went with Mr Wolfs advice on fixing the clamps to the tool. Works much much easier this way

The weathering will then follow with various washes, filters and pigments and will cover most, if not all of the previous paintjob flaws.

What I dont lik too much though, is that each detail bit feels like a building a modelkit on its own. Out of frustration I ordered me a Takom Chieftain Mk.2 1:35 scale kit

[HERMAN BIX]

I get ya Mr Soeren, the last few meters seem to take the longest in the run to the line !!
All those details make it in the end................top job.
Any pics of the patented 'self-weathering roadwheels' ?

[Soeren]

There you go. This is after wire brush, two coats of RAL8012 and one coat of RAL 7028, next will be another mist of my late Dunkelgelb and then gloss coat and washes.

For the weathering. I has cycling for an hour through the fields and think, best is to collect various shades of soil and dust and try that. There are so many nice shades of gray to Brown. Why bother with expensive Pigments.

EDIT: Why is there autocorrect.... It messes up every post.

[c.rainford73]

Wheels look awesome