Metal Origins SdKfz 234/2 Puma

[silversurfer1947]

I've now had a go at applying streaking grime. I tried to get something that was noticeable but not in your face. I'm not sure how well it all shows up in the photos. It looks a lot grimier in real life. The vehicle has also had a coat of matt varnish, and I toned down the decals by spraying a thin coat of the tan wash that I used over the whole body. I am still wondering whether I should put some dust or mud on the lower portion of the mudguards. Constructive comments and suggestions are welcome.

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The next stage is to remove the mudguards, fit the body to the chassis and power it up. Hopefully, at least some of it will work as it's supposed to.

[Soeren]

You are right, the streaking is not too obvious in the pictures. To make that come out in the pictures you need fantastic lighting. As soon as you are happy with that, you should stop it. For the mud and stuff. In my opinion , mud adds character. But... After following so many different builds on this and other websites, I realize that a 1/16 scale rc tank is a different matter compared to a smaller scale static model. You try things on the static model and if you aren't happy or want to have a less/more muddy tank, you just buy another model and start over again. The 1/16 rc model might be the one and only of that particular piece. If that makes any sense

[silversurfer1947]

It probably has not helped by taking the photos with my phone rather my DSLR. I've tried a few more, although the colour balance is still not right. When I've finished, I shall have to take some with a proper camera!

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[silversurfer1947]

I tried to connect up the Elmod board so that I could bind the Flysky i6 receiver. Major problem. The Elmod board has 6 wires for channels 1-6. These have a single signal cable attached. There is also a connector with red and black wires, which I assume is the power feed to the receiver. If I connect the 6 single wired connectors to channels 1-6, the only place left for the power supply is the pins marked B/VCC. This is where I would normally connect the binding plug. I have tried removing all the channels and connecting the power plug to channel 1 . When I go through the binding procedure, the transmitter says "binding OK", but there is no constant light on the receiver. All that happens is the the red light which was flashing fast before I attempted binding, flashes slowly after binding. There is a blue LED on the board which flashes. According to the instructions this means the board is searching for a receiver signal. The receiver has not bound. Help, please.

How should I connect the receiver? Am I damaging the board or receiver by connecting the power supply to channel 1? If I do manage to get the receiver to bind with the transmitter (using a different tank) how do I connect all 7 plugs? Can I connect the power supply to the terminals marked B/VCC. The Clark board is a doddle to connect. This has me very confused.

[silversurfer1947]

OK. forget the last post. Not quite sure how, but I've managed to bind the receiver and transmitter. However, all that has given me is a different set of problems. I connected the power lead to the terminals marked B/VCC. I then connected the signal leads according to how I want them on the transmitter. All I have connected at the moment are the turret rotation and barrel elevation. I tested them one at a time. With just the rotation connected, the drive motor starts the moment I switch on and runs continuously, regardless of the transmitter. With just the elevation connected, the moment I switched the power on, the servo went to maximum barrel depression and stays there regardless of the transmitter. Obviously, I am connecting things incorrectly, but have no idea what to do to test things out. Suggestions please.

[silversurfer1947]

I have some progress to report. I tried connecting a spare servo to the board instead of the elevation servo and discovered that the servo movement was just the servo zeroing itself, if that's the right expression. Accordingly, I moved the servo arm so that it was in the mid position. I connected everything up and tried again. Not quite as I expected, but I can get the barrel to elevate and depress. I tried the turret rotation and the motor burst into life as required. Unfortunately, I think I have not got the worm drive positioned correctly as it would not bite with the other gears. Anyway, it would seem that the turret controls (both on the right stick) are now correct.

While I was fiddling around with the controls, all of a sudden the engine burst into life, which took me by surprise. However, it seems to have affected the right stick. Now when I move the right stick, this lady announces things like "user 1, user 8" etc. and the actual turret controls no longer work. I appear to have taken several step forwards, but also a corresponding number of steps backward. I am hoping that some one who is familiar with elmod boards can tell me who the lady is, and how do I stop her talking to me and let me control the vehicle instead.

[silversurfer1947]

I wish I had some idea of what I was doing - it would make life so much easier. By fiddling around with the switches on the transmitter I found out how to turn the lady on and off. It actually uses channel 5 to switch between turret commands, user sounds and the machine gun, using the 3 positions. The elevation is working though I think the range needs adjusting as up does not seem far enough.

I still have a problem with the rotation. I thought it might be the turret binding, but with the turret drive out, it still has the same problem. The worm gear will not engage properly with the toothed gear that transfer the power. I shall have to dismantle it and try again.

I have also discovered that the width indicator devices on the 4 corners are fragile and susceptible to damage. Despite being what I thought was firmly glued, 2 have fallen out and gone into the black hole and I have broken a third. I shall have to try making something a lot sturdier than a thin piece of plastic. I can see them getting destroyed for a pastime the way I keep bumping into things.

At least the sounds work

phpBB [video]

The video goes on a bit as I could not find the correct position to shut down the engine.

[c.rainford73]

Richard sounds excellent Sorry you've run into trouble with those parts. Do you have a picture of the bits that broke off? Looking forward to seeing you finish this

[silversurfer1947]

Richard sounds excellent Sorry you've run into trouble with those parts. Do you have a picture of the bits that broke off? Looking forward to seeing you finish this

This is the one remaining intact one.

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This is the base of the broken one.

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I have the broken off part, but somehow don't think trying the glue it back together is a viable proposition.

And this is my first attempt at making a replacement. It is bent brass rod, with some heatshrink at one end and a load of solder to represent the ball on the top. It was all I could think of.

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It's not a perfect sphere, but every time I heated it up to reform it it went completely t*t* up.

If any of you expert builders have any ideas they would be very gratefully received.

[c.rainford73]

The rod looks perfect I like your idea of the heat shrink could you use some epoxy to make the ball for the end and mold it and then sand it