Electrics first, or last?

[88-bait]

As the winter months are here, I'm back to start a new Sherman project that nearly got sold on eBay . What put me on a downer was, that I'm not good with electrics and I wasn't going to start the Mato M4A1 project until I got it running.

However, I like this hobby too much to let the Shermie go, so I've started the body upgrade before the electrics are done. Is this wise? I'm going to need someone in South Wales to get the ol gal running for me at one stage and I'm hoping I get a bit of help here. The bodywork and paint etc is more my thing, so no worries there.

What do I do guys?

[Del]

I tend to offer the electrics roughly in place just to make sure it's all going to fit or do any mods necessary to make things go where i want then instal it all nice and tidy at the end.

[88-bait]

Cheers del, most of it is in there, but its one of the Mato M4A1's sold on eBay without the receiver or handset, but I have the replacement HL 24g items which need to be wired up. Personally, I prefer to get it running first, but I guess I can build it the other way around this time. I still need an electric wiz to get it going though. This is my biggest hold up.

[HERMAN BIX]

Stock H/L radio replacement is thankfully very simple.Genuine swap like for like.
I always like to do lower hull & running gear, then radio, then close the hull & detail the upper.

I am very held up on my jagdtiger right now due to the combined Taigen recoil unit AND new T-90 radio which has the 8-pin plugs very different to the older H/L

Its making me cranky......................

[tomhugill]

I always work to get the mechanical side and the electrics done before I start on any detailing and paint, it means if I do need to rip the thing appart I'm not spoiling my previous work.

[88-bait]

Thanks guys, its what I was thinking . I'm still at the stage where I wont spoil the project, but its important to me to get some experienced feedback to work with. I'm still feeling my way along with R/C, but I'm really enjoying it. I did a bit today replacing those heavy duty Mato light guards etc; the stock barrel wont be changed, but I have shaped it to a more agreeable look. The drivers and machine gunners hatches have been modified and some of the detail to the rear has been carried out. I hope to get some pictures up soon. I intend it to be a British Sherman IIa based in Italy.

I might be asking one or two more questions later on when I come to tackling the replacement electrics. Herman, good luck with the project mate Tom, thank you.

[88-bait]

OK, its at the electrics stage now, being converted from Mato to a HL system. I look forward to seeing AH in Barry soon for help with this. The weathering and detail can be added after he works his magic

[maxmekker]

what type of electronics are you treating this with ?

[AlwynTurner]

Hi, beware of the power connection from the mato chassis, the MATO power connector is the wrong way round for an RX-18 which cost me a new rx18 board when I was working on my M7 . Double check your connections to make sure that this is correct before applying power or else ftzzzz..... and smell of burning (which if it is an IBU or Clark board could be very expensive).

Check the RX18 wiring diagram which I think is in one of the reference sections.

Enjoy your build.

Alwyn

[88-bait]

Thanks for the replies lads. I understand that the HL 2.4g system will replace the missing electrics which I have already bought. Now, I only have to say the word 'electrics' and I smell burning and it seems I have found out the hard way that the Mato power connector IS the wrong way around Doh! Oh dear, never mind.

Hence my trip down to Dingding's place in Barry next week. As said, I will cut and shut, paint, weather models all day long, but don't ask me to replace electrics Its a bit different than 1/35th static which is my usual trade in Sherman's.