Hi,
Well today I wired everything up in my first ever RC Tamiya, the M51 Sherman. Initially everything worked and I thought I just needed to reconfigure the transmitter buttons to suit my needs.
Then for an unknown reason the machine gun and cannon including muzzle flash and recoil just stopped working. There are no loose wires or connections. I am totally bemused and ready to launch it down the garden.
Any suggestions will be gratefully received.
Thank you.
John
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Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
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If your question is electronics related please post it in one of the relevant boards here: viewforum.php?f=31
Re: Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
Sounds like it's the endpoints on you Tx.
Tamiya setup their system so you need to use the trims tabs to activate the gun firing, think of it as fully tilt up or down, plus a little (using trim). They don't want you accidentally firing the gun with elevation.
Depending on which Tx you're using, you can either use the trims (if they're analog), program the travel adjust to 125%, or redo your initial setup, only don't go all the way up or all the way down with the stick you use for the gun. The setup sets the end points, you can trick DMD to give you more space for travel.
Tamiya setup their system so you need to use the trims tabs to activate the gun firing, think of it as fully tilt up or down, plus a little (using trim). They don't want you accidentally firing the gun with elevation.
Depending on which Tx you're using, you can either use the trims (if they're analog), program the travel adjust to 125%, or redo your initial setup, only don't go all the way up or all the way down with the stick you use for the gun. The setup sets the end points, you can trick DMD to give you more space for travel.
What, me worry?
Re: Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
Thank you Ausf, I will try all those suggestions. I have the Turnigy i6 transmitter by the way.
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Re: Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
If you configure the Dmd with the gun fire channel at 100% on the end point adjustment (epa) and then wack it upto 125% you should be okPebs434 wrote:Thank you Ausf, I will try all those suggestions. I have the Turnigy i6 transmitter by the way.
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Re: Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
Hi Ausf and Tom,
I have done what you said and only configure the left stick about 75% in every direction. It now fires the cannon at 100% up and the MG 100% down which reassures me that everything is working and just needs setting up properly.
The elevation is annoying me now, it makes a loud clicking and whirring noise and not what I expected from a Tamiya kit.
Also Is there anything that I can do about my Turnigy i6 not having a self centralising stick?
I do feel that however much effort and time I put into this wonderful hobby I don't quite get it right.
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I have done what you said and only configure the left stick about 75% in every direction. It now fires the cannon at 100% up and the MG 100% down which reassures me that everything is working and just needs setting up properly.
The elevation is annoying me now, it makes a loud clicking and whirring noise and not what I expected from a Tamiya kit.
Also Is there anything that I can do about my Turnigy i6 not having a self centralising stick?
I do feel that however much effort and time I put into this wonderful hobby I don't quite get it right.
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Re: Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
On the Dmd there's a pot that says something like cannon fire (it's not the set or rudder one). This lets you change the dead zone for your tx so if the sticks not perfectly centred it won't keep elevating or depressing (what you're hearing is the clutch slipping because the elevations reach its limit). However I would investigate getting a spring kit for it. I lived for years with the frustration on a none centring left stick, I finally got the spring kit for my 9x and things are so much betterPebs434 wrote:Hi Ausf and Tom,
I have done what you said and only configure the left stick about 75% in every direction. It now fires the cannon at 100% up and the MG 100% down which reassures me that everything is working and just needs setting up properly.
The elevation is annoying me now, it makes a loud clicking and whirring noise and not what I expected from a Tamiya kit.
Also Is there anything that I can do about my Turnigy i6 not having a self centralising stick?
I do feel that however much effort and time I put into this wonderful hobby I don't quite get it right.
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Re: Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
Hi Tom, will the spring centring kit that you used on your 9x work on the i6 and if so where did you get it from please.
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Re: Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
I'm not sure I'm afraid, I got it from rctankaustralia from KevinPebs434 wrote:Hi Tom, will the spring centring kit that you used on your 9x work on the i6 and if so where did you get it from please.
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Re: Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
Thanks Tom, I will research closer to home.
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Re: Help Please with Tamiya Electrics.
Keep in mind Tamiya is specifically engineered for the Futaba Attack Tx. It's what they have been setup to use since the beginning and it's the radio system they include in the Full Option kits sold in the Home market (you get it if you buy direct from Japan, Banzai Hobby).
They now have Futaba making their Tamiya Txs in 2.4, but still have analog trims since it's the way they want it.
The noise is as Tom mentioned, a constantly activated elevation reaching the end and activating the clutch so you don't burn out the motor.
A good fix to counter the clutch is to add microswitches on all the travel limits of elevation and gluing the clutch solid. It's a little involved, but relatively inexpensive.
If you use an analog, dual stick, surface Tx it'll work flawlessly. Problem is, we all use digital air Txs because they're readily available and cheaper. I have 3 Futaba Attacks, two old 75 Mhz and one that came with the JS-2. I have since put the 75s into service with subs, so I've gone DX6i with all my Tamiya tanks (except the JS-2). It's a pain to set, it's a struggle if something gets switched by mistake, but it's not Tamiya's fault, it's on me, but I'd rather have a DX6i that I could use on many models over spending the same on each one model Attack (another reason why I'll only buy from Banzai now, not only cheaper, but better).
They now have Futaba making their Tamiya Txs in 2.4, but still have analog trims since it's the way they want it.
The noise is as Tom mentioned, a constantly activated elevation reaching the end and activating the clutch so you don't burn out the motor.
A good fix to counter the clutch is to add microswitches on all the travel limits of elevation and gluing the clutch solid. It's a little involved, but relatively inexpensive.
If you use an analog, dual stick, surface Tx it'll work flawlessly. Problem is, we all use digital air Txs because they're readily available and cheaper. I have 3 Futaba Attacks, two old 75 Mhz and one that came with the JS-2. I have since put the 75s into service with subs, so I've gone DX6i with all my Tamiya tanks (except the JS-2). It's a pain to set, it's a struggle if something gets switched by mistake, but it's not Tamiya's fault, it's on me, but I'd rather have a DX6i that I could use on many models over spending the same on each one model Attack (another reason why I'll only buy from Banzai now, not only cheaper, but better).
What, me worry?
