Track problems and Idle(r) questions.

[DRC]

I've been working on a Heng Long Tiger 1 since September, adding this and that.

Now that I have come to a point where it is time to call it a day there are a few niggling questions that I'd like answering before I make the same mistakes again.

I bought a set of metal drive wheels from Taigen and they worked great with the standard nylon tracks. I then bought a set of metal tracks and fitted these and this was where the problems started! When I run the tank the sprockets seem to climb out of the tracks. Everything seems to be okay when the tank is supported underneath but it won't keep it's tracks on when on the ground. I've had an engineer and ex-tankie look at it and he spotted that there was some flashing that needed grinding off some of the teeth. He also suggested 'running in' the tracks and sprockets by running the tank while supported for a full hour!

I take it that my mistake is buying a non-matched set of tracks.

The idler wheels are also causing me some thought. The standard plastic idlers are secured with a self tapping screw. The Taigen ones (they came with the sprockets) have an axle. I have bought another set that have a threaded axle and brass bearings. Am I right in thinking that I will have to drill a hole through the hull to fit either of the two after market idlers?

By drilling a hole won't this weaken the area around the idler mount?

Thanks

DRC

[DRC]

As soon as I get the track problems sorted I'm calling it a day with this one.

[silverexpress01]

There is a possibility that the track slot spacings are different from the drive wheel teeth. Taigens are a decedent of Heng Longs, but many changes have been made to the lower chassis to accommodate metal suspensions and wheels - enough so that a Taigen tank is a Taigen tank that still uses some Heng Long parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VuApegkits

So, I'd run your tank slowly on a stand that allows the tracks to freely move and carefully watch how the drive wheels interact with the tracks. Pay close attention to how the teeth mesh with the slots on the tracks. My guess is that the spacing might be slightly off. However If this is ok, remove the tracks by taking a link pin out and lay them down on a flat surface and look for any kinks or bends along their length. You might want to move one end side to side to see if there is any play - caused by a bent pin, or a link with excessive play. Finally, check the drive and idler wheels to make sure they are nice and perpendicular to the chassis.

By the way, there is a possibility that the plastic chassis you have cannot take the load of the metal road gear. Meaning the chassis itself maybe bending to the point that that the drive and idler wheels are out of alignment once its moving. If you do a Google search, you will find pictures of RC tankers adding some form of bracing on these plastic Heng Long chassis. Good Luck.

Jose

[jarndice]

Hi, I like what you have done to your HENG LONG Tiger 1,
I think that part of your problem might be that you are using a number of Taigen Metal Hull upgrade fittings WITHOUT using the Taigen Metal Hull,
In common with many others I buy a Taigen metal hull complete with metal Wheels and sprockets and idlers (Complete with metal axles) and metal tracks and a Heng Long Body and a Taigen Metal Turret and Gun,
The combination works well and includes things such as a quick release and a much stiffer Tank overall,
I have used an ASP board,a CLARK board and an IBU2 as well as Taigens own control board,
They all work fine always bearing in mind the known limitations of some of the boards.
Forgebear sells Taigen Tiger 1 metal hulls for a very affordable price as well as everything else you might need including the Taigen control board and Transmitter,as well as the HENG LONG Tiger 1 Body,
Tankbear will be pleased to sell you an IBU2/PRO as well as the new IBU 3, -Go to -
http://www.rctankelectronics.com
The ASP comes from -
http://www.rctanksaustralia.com/shop
and should you prefer buying your CLARK board from someone other than Tankzone, I bought mine from -
http://www.heng-long-panzer.de/
they were very helpful. If you do go to the Heng Long site, if you click beside the German Flag you will bring up the English language version.
Good luck on your future projects
Shaun.

[jackalope]

I had the same problem with my first Tiger I built, you can not mix and match H/L and Taigen running gear. They may look similar if not identical but I'm here to tell you they are not. Once I upgraded the tracks, drive sprockets, road wheels, idler wheels, AND lower hull to all Taigen stuff my Tiger never lost another track no matter how hard I run it.

Which brings me to another point that I apologize in advance if I offend anyone but with a $100 H/L tank you get what you pay for. They're cheap toys for the kiddies for when they see dad running his tank around and he wants one. I'll never waste my money or time with another H/L tank!

[HERMAN BIX]

I had the same problem with my first Tiger I built, you can not mix and match H/L and Taigen running gear. They may look similar if not identical but I'm here to tell you they are not. Once I upgraded the tracks, drive sprockets, road wheels, idler wheels, AND lower hull to all Taigen stuff my Tiger never lost another track no matter how hard I run it.

Which brings me to another point that I apologize in advance if I offend anyone but with a $100 H/L tank you get what you pay for. They're cheap toys for the kiddies for when they see dad running his tank around and he wants one. I'll never waste my money or time with another H/L tank!

I'd agree Mr Jack, but qualify it with in my 7 H/L machines, its the PzIV thats the most toy-like.
Sounds are what they are, and the basics will do, but as we all do,the modifications list takes care of the rest.

My white Tiger did have track mesh issues. Yes it was a simple case of H/L metal sprockets trying to run on Taigen heavy tracks.
Had to run the sprockets and file the thickness down.
No problems at all after that.

[DRC]

A lot to think about there, thanks for everyone's input. I am still learning and would rather make my mistakes on a second-hand Heng Long than on something more expensive. Also, part of the fun for me is taking a pigs ear and producing if not a silk purse and fairly good immitation of one. Hence my Pantiger which I love!

Does anyone have any thoughts on the idler wheels, do I have to drill out the hull to fix them? Both sets came with no instructions and I would like to try and fit them to the next second-hand Tiger that arrived today.

I am goint to try something different with this one. First off, is there anyplace out there that sells sets of plastic late Tiger wheels??? I'm going light-weight on this one as the last is way too heavy (I think it was the lead fishing weights that did it!).

I understand that the turret roof on the late Tigers had added armour plates, can anyone tell me the thickness please.

I'm going to brace the hull of this one with internal bulkheads and hopefully get the rear engine deck to open (more work for my Dremel). I'm doing all this so that when the Panther arrives I'll be more confident when I go to town on her.

[jarndice]

DRC,Hi, The only guaranteed way of getting the Idlers to fit securely is to use a TAIGEN Metal Hull, That is what they were built to fit, Forgebear will sell you one for £43.50
As to the Wheels and the Turret roof, The "Late" pattern Steel road wheels were first fitted in February 1944 and the Turret roof was thickened to 40mm in March 1944,
Forgebear is selling Metal upgrade late Pattern steel wheels for £28.99 and a metal late Pattern Cupola for £9.99
If you are after accuracy the loaders hatch was changed to a short hinged version in March as well. You can get a late pattern loaders hatch from the "Shapeway's site in 1/16 for a Tiger 1 costing £6.22, although it is in plastic as with most of the products on "Shapeways" you can specify the material used , but of course expect to pay more for Metal.
Shaun.