What is considered proper running weight?

[BarryC]

Regarding the scale weight, one has to consider the scale volume of the tank, which means reducing the weight by a factor of 16 for each dimension. On this basis, using an American ton of 2000lbs, the weight of the tank would be just over 34 lbs.

Thank you Silversurfer,

That makes more sense, 8,750 lbs. just seemed wrong. At 34 lbs. it would be nearly manageable but I believe it is still way, way beyond the structural integrity of the suspension system mounts. As Alpha said it would be better to obtain an all metal lower hull but at 600 to 1200 dollars it ain't likely to happen! Notice I did not say "never" going to happen.

I have been trying to figure a way to add structural aluminum along the length on the inner hull sides. I could then mounting the suspension system to it while keeping the outer plastic hull. I could certainly make the aluminum inner chassis/hull structurally stable but then I started out to make a scale detailed model that both runs and operates realistically and not necessarily a "real" tank.

Cheers,
Barry

[ALPHA]

Just a Note Barry...be very careful with those Heavy duty springs....they put one heck of a load on the plastic towers that support the suspension arms....I actually had the towers snap completely off when doing the mod on my Tiger...Lucky ...I had a spare hull ....The plastic on the M1 is thinner than that of the Tiger...So do be careful if it is your plan to change them out


ALPHA

[BarryC]

Just a Note Barry...be very careful with those Heavy duty springs....they put one heck of a load on the plastic towers that support the suspension arms....I actually had the towers snap completely off when doing the mod on my Tiger...Lucky ...I had a spare hull ....The plastic on the M1 is thinner than that of the Tiger...So do be careful if it is your plan to change them out


ALPHA

Hi Alpha,

A little late as I have already installed the Upgraded Springs and they are stiff!

The "towers" are my biggest concern and it sounds like from your experience they should be. The forward most towers both L & R already have a small stress fracture showing parallel to the screw. Fortunately it is only on one side and has not broken through but it is there and those were the two hardest springs to wrestle into place. I have been trying to envision a double "horseshoe" shaped piece that would fit over the tower and bond to the hull side. It can be done I just do not want to hand fabricate 14 of them. I had considered making one of each front (shaped differently from the others) and one of the remaining one and then casting them out of a metal based resin material. Still pondering how I will address this concern!

I appreciate your input,
Barry

[BarryC]

Just a Note Barry...be very careful with those Heavy duty springs....they put one heck of a load on the plastic towers that support the suspension arms....I actually had the towers snap completely off when doing the mod on my Tiger...Lucky ...I had a spare hull ....The plastic on the M1 is thinner than that of the Tiger...So do be careful if it is your plan to change them out


ALPHA

Here is a diagram of some scheming I have been doing on reinforcement for the "plastic towers".

What do you think?

[greengiant]

Don't forget to make a thin plastic round plate with a driveshaft size hole in it to cover the huge hole the gearboxes drive shafts have or you will fill that area of hull with gunk whenever you run through loose dirt or a little mud. Easiest to mount it is on the outside of the hull behind the drive sprockets.

[atcttge]

Won't installing stronger springs just make the suspension stiffer as if it was a stock tank without the added weight? I mean won't installing the stronger springs defeat the purpose of adding weight to make the tank run more realistic? One reason I stuck with using the stock springs on my M1.

I also tried to install the springs to the "softer" setting on my Leo and for some odd reason, that didn't end well. As a result, I'm back to stock config WRT suspension on the Leo.

Last I weighed my M1, it was 16 pounds. Most of it is unsprung weight I guess, but the metal tracks is a significant portion of that 16 pounds. I still use the stock springs, road wheel arms, and road wheels.

[atcttge]

Don't forget to make a thin plastic round plate with a driveshaft size hole in it to cover the huge hole the gearboxes drive shafts have or you will fill that area of hull with gunk whenever you run through loose dirt or a little mud. Easiest to mount it is on the outside of the hull behind the drive sprockets.

Best way to cover those holes on the M1 is to install driveshaft supports. Not only do these cover the holes, these also improve the tank's running.

[ALPHA]

Won't installing stronger springs just make the suspension stiffer as if it was a stock tank without the added weight? I mean won't installing the stronger springs defeat the purpose of adding weight to make the tank run more realistic? One reason I stuck with using the stock springs on my M1.

I also tried to install the springs to the "softer" setting on my Leo and for some odd reason, that didn't end well. As a result, I'm back to stock config WRT suspension on the Leo.

Last I weighed my M1, it was 16 pounds. Most of it is unsprung weight I guess, but the metal tracks is a significant portion of that 16 pounds. I still use the stock springs, road wheel arms, and road wheels.

That makes total sense ATC...I never use the upgrade springs on any of my tanks...one lesson was good enough
Not to mention ...I also like to see the suspension work...it may not be exact...but it works

ALPHA

[ALPHA]

Here is a diagram of some scheming I have been doing on reinforcement for the "plastic towers".

What do you think?

From here it looks OK Barry....if you add some gussets that might also help in reinforcing the walls from caving in...I would make sure they are glued and maybe screwed into place somehow...Just so down the road..there is no separation

ALPHA

[BarryC]

Hi guys,

Thanks for your insight and suggestions!

I will be using the axle supports and will seal them to the hull. This will seal up the giant holes where the drive shafts exit.

My plan is to run the reinforcement doublers the length of the hull side encompassing all suspension arms except the forward most L & R. Those will have to be separate pieces unless I removed the existing gusset just forward of my forward bulkhead; I do not want to do that. The doublers will be sandwiched vertically between the aluminum bulkhead attach angles and the hull side which will be screwed into place. They will first be glued into place though my normal approach will not work due to the large area. I normally coat both surfaces to be joined with liquid adhesive until both remain "wet/tacky" them press and clamp them together until cured. It can get a little messy but once cured the plastic will fail before the glue joint does!

I have considered the additional strengthening of the stack up using screws and likely will. I am also thinking about and additional bulkhead somewhere near center but it will have to clear the turret mounted Electrical Slip Ring and well as all the lower electronic installations, not sure there will be room. Gussets could be used but only on the RH side as the battery will occupy the LH side. I may be able to use the "new" battery enclosure as the nucleus of the needed bracing.

I am going to reinstall the original springs, then using Michael C's approach of finding the right combination of springs and mounting holes to get the balance needed to "suspend" the weight on the springs. I have "SWAGed a targeted "sprung" weight of between 15 - 20 lbs with an overall weight between 20 - 25 lbs. I want to keep the weight as low as possible but still get the "ride" I am looking for. I want to see the "suspension work" as well, it is such a part of watching a machine like a tank operate.

Thanks for all you help, more to come!
Barry