KV2 move or fire. Any thoughts?

[mike1268]

Working on the KV2 at the moment and after watching a program about it the other night, they said it couldnt fire on the move. I thought for a bit fun I would see if there is a way to stop it firing while the motors have power (or one of the motors).

Any thoughts?

[tomhugill]

There's a little irony in the fact it was only the Russians that practised fire on the move tactics (and these were only as intimidation). I would imagine there would have been an operational directive to not fire on the move rather than there being a mechanical block. You may be able to use a recoil activated micro switch to break the circuit to the motors?

[mike1268]

Thats a good call. I will have to see how the board reacts to having the RX feed for that channel stopped. If it stops the tank and doesnt just lock the speed where it is, would be easy to put a low amp micro switch on RX feed to the recoil.

The program I was watching said the KV2 was so unballenced because of the huge turret, that they had to stationary and on level ground before firing.

Just think it would be cool to be forced to stop to fire with the RC tank, to add a bit of realism to the driving experience.

[jarndice]

Certainly if the turret main gun was not facing to the front or rear but was fired off the centre line the Tank would fall over
Shaun.

[Tankbear]

I don't think the relay to kill motor power will work. Years back when all we had was heng long and stupid track spasm a device called anti tank recoil existing which when you fired disconnected the motors via relays. But thinking about it firing and deactivating the motors happened that quickly the tank didn't stop only slowed slightly.

So think it's a no go.

If you've a fancy radio can you program it so when you hit fire it kills the throttle then after a second or so fires the gun?

[RobW]

Would a reed switch on the motor negative which disabled the fire positive (negative?) work? Ie stopping the tank kills the current which closes the switch.

[mike1268]

Ian - trying to stick with a basic 6 channel. Hoping to transfer one of my IBU2's into it.

Rob - That was my original thought. I know the tech exists, but my knowledge of which switch type and where to get it is the problem.

So going by Ians experience and assuming im sticking with the radio gear i have, it defo needs to be that when power is applied to the motors, it stops the firing of the gun. Rather than the other way round.

Any idea where to get a reed switch from that could take the load from the motors?

[hawkeye3guns]

Hi mike,
Have you thought about using a relay. If you use a relay that is biased to "on position", The motor feed is fed through the relay so all works as normal.
The coil side of the relay is fed through the firing circuit so that as soon as you hit the fire button it energises the relay which breaks the circuit to the drive motors and then fires the gun. Release the fire button and the relay coil drops out thus re-energising the drive circuit and off you go.
Maplin have a selection of 6V relays that should do the trick.
Denzil

[Max-U52]

I think I'd take a look at the komodo board from RCTA. It does exactly what you want it to, when you fire the main gun it kills power to the motors, and it has two different delay periods so if the short doesn't seem long enough you can switch to long delay. No idea what the actual delay times are, though. I think for this the guy you want is Kevin Grannum, AKA Phyrephysh (sp?). I know the komodo works great with stock electronics and I have one in almost all my airsoft tanks that are still on stock electronics, but I'm not sure how it would work with the IBU2. I know the komodo board is triggered by the high intensity flash circuit but that's about all.

[mike1268]

Thanks for your input guys. I'm going to pick up two reed relays as they are really cheap and see if they will do the job. Once I've given it a go, I will post my results