Clark TK 22

[Trailbiker]

As someone who has never had any RC "toys" before, you'll have to forgive my ignorance regarding anything electronic !
I'd like to upgrade my HL Leopard 2 to a Clarke board, and believe I need a TK 22. Is this correct?
And reading through the forums I think I also need a new receiver.
I'd also like to fit a recoil system to the barrel. Does anyone have any info on how to achieve this?
Thanks for any help.

[wibblywobbly]

Sure you can fit a Clark Board, and the best route is to buy a 2.4ghz transmitter/receiver to go with it. They are almost plug and play, though there are a couple of things to make you aware of.

Firstly, if you are converting it to IR battling, you will need the IR led, a cable to connect it to the board, a sensor apple and a remote control to program the tank to Leopard spec.

If you are running an airsoft system, then there is a bit of rewiring/soldering to do. You will also need the IR set up as the board can only be programmed via the remote, and that can only be done if there is an IR sensor plugged in. You don't need to buy the whole IR system to do this, you can simply plug in one sensor, and you can in theory use a Sony tv remote. If you go the 'one sensor' route (they cost pennies to buy) then make sure that you plug the correct legs into the correct sockets as not all sensors have the same pinout.

They are great boards, but require a little knowledge to get them running. There are plenty of users on the forum who can help you.

The other option is the IBU2. It costs more, but for airsoft users it doesn't require a tv remote to program it, or any IR sensors. It is also totally plug and play, eg you unplug the RX18 and plug in the IBU2.

I have no doubt that others will be along to share their experiences, I have owned both Clark and IBU boards.

[Phil]

I can recommend the IBU2, use it in all my tanks, link below for my site which has links to IBU2 info

http://www.philslittleworld.webspace.vi ... U2Pro.html

[spongehoobtank82]

Yep IBU2 all the way! It's a little more but you get alot more! And you can switch it between tanks and change the sounds for each tank

[Tankbear]

Hi Trailbiker
With all the aftermarket electronics you will need at a 4 channel radio and receiver.
I’ve a deal on at the moment where I’m selling IBU2 base, 6 channel 2.4ghz radio all already connected and configured to the IBU2 for £129.
More details about the IBU2 can be found on my website here http://rctankelectronics.weebly.com/
Ian.

[Trailbiker]

The tank I've bought is already running 2.4 ghz, as it's the latest offering from HL, so do I still need a receiver, or can I just plug all the leads into the Clark board and away we go ?
I wasn't planning on using IR at this time, as I need to grasp the basics of everything first.
Have been experimenting with making a smoker today and have also removed the lower part of the BB firing mechanism as I'm hoping to make a barrel recoil unit, along the lines of some I've seen on various forums. The trouble is, that there's a wealth of information on the net, but it's tricky trying to remember where you saw it, plus there doesn't seem to be any real tutorials for the likes of us newbies that haven't got a clue ! Perhaps that's part of the fun. So far I have spent more time dismantling and fiddling with this tank than actually running it.

[MichaelC]

Trail,

The 2.4 Ghz set from HL is proprietary to their receiver/MFU and cannot be binded to other hobby grade 2.4Ghz sets. When you upgrade to IBU/Clark, you will need to have a radio set with receiver. The receiver will plug directly into Clark/IBU.

Recoil is an interesting exercise and there really isn't a how to that I know off, but this one should get you started:

http://rctanksaustralia.com/forum/viewt ... f=82&t=315

Both Clark/IBU will have a recoil servo port to plug the recoil servo into, and all the programming and syncing with the flash is all done for you so it is just a matter of making the barrel movable within the mantlet and mounting the servo to create the recoil action. You can really mount the servo whichever way you like, but some positions are more conducive to rotational pull than others which you don't want.

I can post some video if you want to see what it looks like once it is set-up. One more thing, the link talks about modding the HL recoil unit, but it is the same for the BB unit. What you are really after is the shell to keep the elevation the same, but connect the servo to the "cam" with in the recoil/BB unit to control the recoil motion. For BB you will also need to make sure the barrel will slide thru but I am pretty sure the Leo is already set-up that way once you take apart the BB unit.


MichaelC.

[Trailbiker]

Michael, thanks for the info. Yes I had seen the link you posted, as it's one of the ones I've been trying to copy. The only thing is, the BB unit on the Leopard is completely different, but after much head scratching and fiddling about this morning, I've just about managed to get the barrel to slide in and out of the mantlet nice and smoothly. All I need now is a servo to fit and it should all work great. One problem with the Leopard barrel is that it has to stay the right way up, so took a bit of searching in my garage to find something suitable to do this. Have chopped up a small brass locking bolt, which seems to do the trick nicely.
Looks like I'll have to get a new receiver then if I want to fit a Clark board.
I see the official agent for the UK is Tankzone, so is there anywhere else I can get one from, as judging by the bad reports of TZ I'm not sure I want to use them.

[MichaelC]

Trail,

I know that Clark probably won't ship you direct, but if you approach other vendors in Canada and Australia I am sure you will find someone to ship to you....

http://www.immortalhobbies.com/immortal ... ort=normal

http://www.chariotsofwar.net/contents/e ... oards.html

http://www.ozarmour.com/store/rc-electr ... model.html

I don't believe they have exclsuive outside their countries.

I know the Leo barrel has to stay upright because of the fume extractor, but even without it you don't want any rotation pull anyway to get the linearity on the recoil, so it is the same problem really with all other barrels. You did keep the BB inner tube to connect to the cam in the BB frame, right ? No need to reinvent the wheel if it does the trick. I just use the BB cam, remove all the other pieces so that it will move smoothly in the BB frame, and then glue it back to the outer barrel at the right spacing within the mantlet.

MichaelC.

[Trailbiker]

Michael, no I didn't cut off the tab that is used for the barrel rotation, just the lower half of the BB mechanism with the motor and everything in it. I've put a brass bolt into the end of the barrel, which is in the chamber that I have left. I've bought a small servo today, but the guy in the shop said I shouldn't hook it directly to the battery as I'd burn it out, so guess I'll have to wait until I get a board to plug it in to, before I can position and test it. I had to drill out part of the mantlet as there was a barrel stop and a flat keyed into it to stop the barrel rotating. I'm assuming once the servo is connected with a pin to the brass bolt, that this will pull the barrel backwards, and forwards, and not allow it to rotate, unless of course I'm missing something. As I said, I'm completely new to this sort of thing, but being an ex mechanic, I do have some idea of how things should work. Slightly different to model making I know, so I'm always open to helpful suggestions from people that know more than me about these things !!
Is there nobody else that sells the Clark board here in the UK besides TZ ?