DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build

[philipat]

thanks for the kind words, guys.

I learned something every day. Seems there are several types of saw blades for hobby knives. Xacto's keyhole blade is #15 (http://xacto.com/products/cutting-solut ... de-15.aspx). I've been using a #11-sized saw blade (http://www.micromark.com/Razor-Saws.html) and there's a longer, straighter blade, too (http://www.caning.com/Merchant2/merchan ... creen=SRCH).

I'll be using a set of Tank-modellbau's support bearings. I originally got it for my PzIII, but it didn't work so well on the metal hull (i.e., I didn't want to drill into the hull). The idler adjuster will be from them, too. Didn't like the look of the Asiatam adjuster.

For straight lines, a trick I discovered recently was to use a ruler and a panel scriber. The scriber gets a good "guide groove" and then I can use the #11-sized saw blade to finish it (after drilling the access hole).

[jarndice]

There is a trick to fitting gearbox output shaft bearings, it involves subterfuge, If you cannot easily slide the bearings over the shaft this is what I find works, place the HULL complete with gearboxes into the freezer or the icebox (it might be a good idea not to let your partner know)overnight, in the morning place the BEARINGS on a hot plate, NOT SO HOT THAT YOU GET BURNED! remove the hull from the freezer/icebox and smear the shafts with a smear of lithium grease, place the bearing on the end of the shaft and using a small hammer tap the bearing and it should slide the full length of the shaft,(If the bearings have them, do make sure the two holes in the bearing collar will not interfere with the gearbox when you fit the retaining bolts through the hull and that there is space for the nuts to fit on the end of the bolts. I would suggest you leave drilling the holes in the hull until the bearings are in place, you may discover that they are wrongly positioned if you drill before the bearings are against the side of the hull.This is when a PIN VISE pays for itself. of course if there are no holes then don't drill!!!) Hope that helps. shaun

[philipat]

Good idea. Thanks for the heads up on the screw holes on the sides. I have those and hadn't thought of the gearbox fitting issues.

[HERMAN BIX]

To add to Mr Jardices advice on the bearing fitting, see if you can buy a tube socket, or get a bit of brass tube the right size to go over the shaft. You will need to keep the bearing moving into place before it cools off & loses its clearance.
Once you get it moving, keep it moving home as quick as you can
Good luck mate

[philipat]

I realized that I had forgotten to prep the space for one set of tools, the gun cleaning rods. The Ausf G and later started to have all four rods on the left, rear fan vents. Most of the Ausf Gs appeared to have them in a configuration with the swab rod on the bottom, a few photos show it on top of the other 3 rods. The Taigen metal tools set is a really nice set that even comes two sets of 4 cleaning rods clustered together. The drawback is that they are both the exact same set with the swab or rammer segment on the top. It also pushes out some from the rest. So, I had to install some small styrene spacers that would allow it to install correctly.

I also figured that I’d try to blacken some of the tools so that I could avoid painting them, or at least the portions that would be bare metal anyways. After 7 hours in vinegar, I’ve determined that they don’t blacken. They got a little whiter, or duller, but pretty much stayed the same color as before. I think that I’ll skip blackening any of them and just include them in the washes to try to give them some age. Although, being in the desert, they’d probably just be dirty.

[philipat]

So, after redoing all of the molded bolts and screws on the upper hull, I decided that I couldn’t leave the turret with molded screws. So, I used some 0-80 brass screws to replace the flush-mounted turret bolts that HL had molded into place.

At the same time, I decided that the grab handles had to be tweaked with some 1.4-mm brass wire.

Now, I’m finished detailing the turret.

[SovereignZuul]

I've got a real hardon for this level of detail Phil and you keep nailing it.

This will be one of the best PZIVs I've seen when complete.

[KTRob]

Great detail work

[philipat]

Thanks, guys. I have a little bit more detail to do, but will be moving into function soon.

Started work on the lower hull. The battery box has been removed and the most of the switch holes have been filled with Milliput.

Detailing on the rear is finished. The auxiliary muffler is held in place with metal straps. The moldings needed to be replaced. The attachment isn’t perfect but close. I also added the small exhaust pipe using 2-mm brass tube.

I also added the lower shelf of the center brackets (don’t know what it’s called...but the obvious white styrene shows it ).

I added the tow hitch lug. That was made with 1/8" (3.2-mm) styrene tube. The handle uses 1.4-mm brass rod. Its length was checked against the TC’s hand. So, it extends about 1-mm on either side of his hand. After epoxying the handle into the tube, I filled the tube with styrene rod. Left as a tube, the styrene was too weak to hold its shape if squeezed. I sanded the end of the lug to about 3-mm diameter while leaving the end near the handle a little thicker, like the collar that was on the real thing. The hold was drilled using a #31 bit, which is about 3.05-mm. The lug isn’t glued in place yet. It will be eventually. I wanted to try to add the securing chain, but I don’t have the skills to drill a tiny hole into a round surface. So, I’ll skip that detail.

I also decided to leave the molded bolt heads. I’d like to replace them with brass or styrene rods. But, I’m afraid that removing the molded heads would cause more damage than I can repair because of the tight spaces. So, I’ll leave those as they are. They’ll mostly be in the shadows anyways.

[jarndice]

Hi, If you own a "PIN VISE" just lightly file a flat into the handle of the towing pin (PINTLE) then using a small bit in your PIN VISE drill through then follow through with a bit big enough to allow the chain through, I am assuming you have a PIN VISE, if you do not I urge you to get one ASAP, It will change your build for the better, E-BAY or AMAZON are the places I would look for one, they often are accompanied by the offer of a pack of drill bits, this is an offer worth taking, I would make one important point, once you have a PIN VISE then PE inevitably follows, if you do feel that urge I have found that "VOYAGER" is a little easier and cheaper than "ABER". shaun