Clark's TK22 480 Motors Help Needed

[Bogeyman]

Hi all,

I hope someone can help with following, I want to fit 480 motors on to my black steel gears, the long can of the 480 will I'm told fit in a HL Leopard 2, I have read on the Clark's web site I need to install a power switch in SW socket as it will not be able to handle the extra current, does this mean I need to leave the jumper plug in with or replace with a switch, I am currently using the HL std power switch in CN1, or am I missing the obvious.

Hope someone knows.

John

[FreakyDude]

you can leave the jumper switch in and it will be fine. The 480 motors don't draw much more than the standard stock motors, I have been running 480 motors in a ton of vehicles and never have a problem.
I use jumpers on my boards and very little of anything else.

[Bogeyman]

Thank you Freakydude, that's what I thought.

John

[MichaelC]

Hi all,

I hope someone can help with following, I want to fit 480 motors on to my black steel gears, the long can of the 480 will I'm told fit in a HL Leopard 2, I have read on the Clark's web site I need to install a power switch in SW socket as it will not be able to handle the extra current, does this mean I need to leave the jumper plug in with or replace with a switch, I am currently using the HL std power switch in CN1, or am I missing the obvious.

Hope someone knows.

John

If you are going to follow Clark's instruction, you will need to do some new wiring. Battery +/- will no go directly to CN1, and you need to wire up a switch only (i.e. no leads from the battery, just a simple switch) to where the jumper was.

I have both set-ups (i.e. with the Jumper in and Power Switch on CN1, and Power to CN1 and Switch on Jumper port) because of wiring needs and not due to power draw, but I think that if you have power to CN1 and use the switch on the jumper port, there is actually power to part of the board ALL the time, so you have to be careful with basically live electronics on the board when you are fiddling around even when the board is "off" so to speak.

MichaelC.

[Bogeyman]

Hi MichaelC,

Thanks for the reply, so I guess the best option is to leave the jumper on SW, and leave the switch on CN1, so I can power the whole tank on and off from the switch between the battery and CN1, could you also put a switch on SW, not connected to battery, leave it switched on, then use switch to CN1 to power tank on and off, I don't much like the idea of the board being permanently live, for obvious reasons.

John

[MichaelC]

John the only reason the board will have power even though it is switched "off" is if the battery is directly fed to the CN1 with no switch in between and you use the SW for switching. If you already have a switch hook up between the battery and CN1 then you don't need another switch on SW. Battery always and only goto CN1, the question is where you put the switch. The switch on the CN1 will not let power thru so your board is not live.

Its just that when they design the board they cannot assumed that there is an on/off switch external to the board itself and hence the SW port. As Freaky says, you should be fine with 480s on your existing set-up and don't need any re-wiring. I was just trying to provide more information and what you need to do if you decide to go the way Clark wants you to wire it.

MIchaelC.

[Bogeyman]

No problem, thank you for taking the time to explain to a newbie to the Clark boards, this is my first board so do not to see it go up in a puff of smoke.

Once again, thanks to MichaelC and freakydude.

John