Adhesives

[Markocaster]

I have been working with mainly a tube of cheap super glue and it seems ok for general HL plastic
What do you guys use / recommend ?

What would you use for metal? I have a metal turret and want to attach shumo track holders what would glue metal to metal the best?

Answers appreciated hope you are not all sick of my rookie questions
Cheers Mark

[ALPHA]

Hey there Mark... I use super glue as well.... others have recommended different brands of CRC type glues ... but though the results are good...I've never used the whole container...it's usually sold in larger volume...but usually completely hardens before reaching mid point of the bottle...metal is a bit tougher... detail stuff I just use super glue..major stuff I use a combo of super glue reinforced with plastic dust... and if the area allows.. some micro screws or solder

Hope this helps

ALPHA

[Markocaster]

Hey there Mark... I use super glue as well.... others have recommended different brands of CRC type glues ... but though the results are good...I've never used the whole container...it's usually sold in larger volume...but usually completely hardens before reaching mid point of the bottle...metal is a bit tougher... detail stuff I just use super glue..major stuff I use a combo of super glue reinforced with plastic dust... and if the area allows.. some micro screws or solder

Hope this helps

ALPHA

Thanks Alpha are CRC glues like epoxy ? I read on another members build he used lots of 2 part epoxy resin, so I am looking into that. It's amazing all the glue types there are. I always used testers and super glue on the little models
Cheers Mark

[ALPHA]

Hey there Mark... I use super glue as well.... others have recommended different brands of CRC type glues ... but though the results are good...I've never used the whole container...it's usually sold in larger volume...but usually completely hardens before reaching mid point of the bottle...metal is a bit tougher... detail stuff I just use super glue..major stuff I use a combo of super glue reinforced with plastic dust... and if the area allows.. some micro screws or solder

Hope this helps

ALPHA

Thanks Alpha are CRC glues like epoxy ? I read on another members build he used lots of 2 part epoxy resin, so I am looking into that. It's amazing all the glue types there are. I always used testers and super glue on the little models
Cheers Mark

Hi Mark... CRCs are just like crazy glue...but come in larger bottles... usually vary in the catalyst and dry time...stopped using those long ago ... as I never got use of the entire bottle... Now I just stick with super glue... as I have found crazy glue to be inconsistent with their mix...sometimes it sticks sometimes it doesn't ... I have also ran into times where the tube was hardened... in a brand new sealed package...super glue has given me the flexibility ... and is way more consistent ... not to mention if the tube dries out before I finish using it... it's cheap to just open another as I usually get use of more than 3/4 of the tube so overall cost is about 35 cents a tube

I agree with lposter about metal...there really isn't anything that will bond it permanently ....JB weld is usually best.. but because of it's non porous nature,,, metal is better soldered or welded in some way...reason I am not big on doing PE ... even white metal parts unless they have threaded fasteners reason I wasn't that impressed with the rear deck lid hatches for the Panzer IV...I'll still be using them on my current JagdPanzer IV just because of the initial base of that build...it was totally haggard.. so swiss cheesing the body wasn't an issue anymore..as I had to reinforce the structure anyway... It's not something I would really want to do on a sound body IMO... as the detail (unless your are going to hide switches) is not really necessary... to me opening hatches are just more vulnerable parts that can be broken off during handling ...but that's a personal view point... to which everyone has their own view on
I will be using metal on my current JagdPanzer IV build...but for the most part it is all internal.. where I will be using screws as well as glue to secure everything ...it adds to the build time as the design for each piece has to have consideration for such implementation..

Bottom line is to take your time... think before doing...consider what application will work best for you...it never hurts

Good Luck with the build

Happy Tanking

ALPHA

[HERMAN BIX]

Glue ??...............you want glue ??!! Glue to joint dis- similar material on a model German radio controlled tank ??!!

Try the bloody dolls House joint !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jarndice]

A lot of metal upgrades come with pins to locate the item, what I do is use a ROLSON TAP & DIE set to put a thread on the pin and bolt it in position, companies such as www.modelfixings.com
will readily supply washers, nuts and other bits and pieces. shaun

[dgsselkirk]

There is really only one solution if you want it to stay on and that is solder a long pin on the back of a piece of brass to represent the holder, drill a hole in the hull, put the pin through and bend it down,and 2 part epoxy it from the back side. You cannot solder white metal....

This is a longer process but really does work. In fact I use this method on my plastic tanks as well to put on fine parts. My KT is covered in them and in a year and a 1/2 of battling so far so good!

[PainlessWolf]

Good Morning,
For small parts and general assembly, I use and swear by Loctite's Ultra Gel Control glue. It has flex and super shear strength. For larger parts, drill and pin then epoxy as dgsselkirk noted.
regards,
Painless

[Markocaster]

Glue ??...............you want glue ??!! Glue to joint dis- similar material on a model German radio controlled tank ??!!

Try the bloody dolls House joint !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Markocaster]

There is really only one solution if you want it to stay on and that is solder a long pin on the back of a piece of brass to represent the holder, drill a hole in the hull, put the pin through and bend it down,and 2 part epoxy it from the back side. You cannot solder white metal....

This is a longer process but really does work. In fact I use this method on my plastic tanks as well to put on fine parts. My KT is covered in them and in a year and a 1/2 of battling so far so good!

This sounds like a winning solution , cheers