Hello all the way from the U.S.

MichaelC · Post by **MichaelC** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 12:57 am

jack, the tracks are open end single pin and one end is rough so it will only go in and out of the track link one way. The rough end is what holds the pin in. You will have to give it a try to see which end is which. Ideally you would upgrade to an idler adjuster so that you can do fine adjustment without remove track links, but you should have at least one link room looking by the slack. You can also try it by pinching the track and folding one link right now and see how tight it would be.

Check the idler first though...... My KV runs with very loose tracks but they all have return rollers.

jackalope · Post by **jackalope** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 1:45 am

Thanks MichaelC. I THINK I figured it out! I got to looking at the tank as it sits on the ground and the last road wheel seems to flex/twist outward if I push the wheel downward straightening it out how it SHOULD be the track is moved inward by a mm or 2 which is what the problem seems to be.

So I just have to figure a way to stiffen up the road wheel arms as they seem to twist.

Now I'm not sure if I want to upgrade to the metal arms and road wheels because from what I'm reading the ones used on the stock plastic hull can not be used on the upgraded metal hulls, is this true? I would hate to buy these parts just for them to be replaced in a month or 2 because I upgrade to the metal hull. Does anyone know if this is the case or can the arms and road wheels be used on either hull?

gijoe76 · Post by **gijoe76** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 1:48 am

I had the same problem on my heng long tiger tank. what I find that works best is simply add a second washer to the idler wheel where it screws into the tank. I have done this with multiple tiger tanks and the results seem the make a big difference in keeping the tracks on. You could also try when turning, take wider turns and there should be less stress put on the idler and should stay on easier.

jackalope · Post by **jackalope** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:28 am

I've looked at the how to remove the idler thread and I swear it doesn't look like mine comes apart, it looks like 1 piece on there. I'm afraid to try to pry it apart that it may break. Well I guess if they do its my excuse to the wife to buy the upgraded parts!

Gijoe76 thank you thats not a bad idea to get me up and running till the metal parts get her, thanks man! Does this forum have a "like" button? If not I have a suggestion.

MichaelC · Post by **MichaelC** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:37 am

The idler should just be screwed on to the lower hull. You just need a skinny enough screw driver to go thru the existing hole and it should be a cross style screw driver. You shouldn't need to pry anything open........

Can you try bending the last road wheel swing arm ? Also, make sure that the last road wheel is tightly screw to the swing arm (well not too tight otherwise it won't turn but tight enough that it won't go wobbly).

I think you just need to fine tune the wheels a bit for now. These things don't have much quality control on them and almost everyone needs some kind of adjustment out of the box.

The extra washer on the idler is a good trick........

ALPHA · Post by **ALPHA** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:44 am

Hey there Jack... that track slack is perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!! leave it alone lol...Heng Long must have listened to customer responses as they usually are very tight .... What I suspect happened is the idler got dislodged during shipping...it sometimes happens ...What I suggest you do is remove it... a small phillips screwdriver in that little hole will allow you to do it...the fix is easy...just put a drop of super glue in the hole on the hull...and spread it around with a toothpick .... this will renew the threads and add a little thickness to the wall of the screw hole... just make sure it's dry before putting the idler back on...and don't loose the washer behind it
You might also want to open the tank up remove most of the screws holding it together and just leave four ...two in the front and two in the back ...put the rest away and keep them for spares ...when you get the top off... check the seating of the gearboxes by loosening the three screws on each that secure them to the bottom hull...jiggle them around to make sure they are seated on the locking pins on the hull... then retighten the screws... also lubing the gearboxes at this time is a good idea ...get yourself some thick silicon based lube ... just a little dab will do on each gear

You got a good looking Tiger there... one of the improved versions..she should run fine after some fine tuning

Good Luck

ALPHA

jackalope · Post by **jackalope** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 3:43 am

I double checked the alignment of the road wheels with the idler and the idler is in fact too far inward, meaning Gijoe76 may have the right idea! Good to know a small philips screwdriver is all I need gonna go do this right now. The left side does not have this problem only the right side, very odd.

Alpha I'll take your advice and leave the tracks alone, looking at pics of real Tigers my tracks look pretty close. I'll take a close look at the shaft the idler is attached to and see if its damaged, I hope its not!

Another question for you guys. I've found the metal road wheels and suspension parts as a kit but I also want to upgrade the idler wheels (for obvious reasons) does anyone know a good set of idler wheels as there seems to be so many different types out there. Also the ones I've found have a metal axle with a e clip that holds them on, how would this work? I have my order ready to go but I don't want to order the wrong stuff.

ALPHA · Post by **ALPHA** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:52 am

The Heng Long metal idlers are usually pretty good...as they have brass bushings in them...if you can find a correct sealed bearing...it is possible to overdrill and size the hole in the Heng Long for it to fit ...now... to correct the length problem...the Heng Long rear bulkhead is usually secured to the hull with two screws on the inside... try loosening the side that is giving you the problem ...perhaps lengthening the hole.. then secure it back till the track stretches out a little...if it works... get some scrap plastic or plasticard... and take up the gap so it won't slip back to the bad position

Good Luck

ALPHA

Post by **HERMAN BIX** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 5:04 am

ALPHA wrote:The Heng Long metal idlers are usually pretty good...as they have brass bushings in them...if you can find a correct sealed bearing...it is possible to overdrill and size the hole in the Heng Long for it to fit ...now... to correct the length problem...the Heng Long rear bulkhead is usually secured to the hull with two screws on the inside... try loosening the side that is giving you the problem ...perhaps lengthening the hole.. then secure it back till the track stretches out a little...if it works... get some scrap plastic or plasticard... and take up the gap so it won't slip back to the bad position

Good Luck

ALPHA

That might depend on the age of the model. Mine has the idler mounts moulded onto the side of each lower hull plate - not the back bulkhead. I had similar but less significant derailing on mine during pre mod testing (with the blocks of butter perched on top) and it was the inconsistent idler on one side. This was readilly corrected with the proper metal idler set I got.
I also fitted the metal roadwheel arms, and they did seem to "tighten" the tracking up over all.
I guess its all about the mass production variance .........some better than others, but thats what I suppose we can accept for not selling organs in South America to buy a Tamiya version that is pretty well perfect in these areas.
Welcome in by the way Mr Jack, you sure have 'stripped-off' & jumped into the deep end mate, you will have more fun with these tanks than with a hall pass to the Playboy Mansion

!!!!!!

ALPHA · Post by **ALPHA** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 12:40 pm

HERMAN BIX wrote:
ALPHA wrote:The Heng Long metal idlers are usually pretty good...as they have brass bushings in them...if you can find a correct sealed bearing...it is possible to overdrill and size the hole in the Heng Long for it to fit ...now... to correct the length problem...the Heng Long rear bulkhead is usually secured to the hull with two screws on the inside... try loosening the side that is giving you the problem ...perhaps lengthening the hole.. then secure it back till the track stretches out a little...if it works... get some scrap plastic or plasticard... and take up the gap so it won't slip back to the bad position

Good Luck

ALPHA
That might depend on the age of the model. Mine has the idler mounts moulded onto the side of each lower hull plate - not the back bulkhead. I had similar but less significant derailing on mine during pre mod testing (with the blocks of butter perched on top) and it was the inconsistent idler on one side. This was readilly corrected with the proper metal idler set I got.
I also fitted the metal roadwheel arms, and they did seem to "tighten" the tracking up over all.

Good to know Herman... Have yet to get my hands on one of these new models... What brand of idler did you upgrade too.. I think Jacks have the metal Heng Longs ...yours had the plastic right?...My old Heng Long chassis has the rear idler supports molded to the bulkhead not the chassis and I have never had my tracks derail ..knock on wood ...been waiting to get a new one or at least the upper from one...just because they have improved a lot on them ...They have also released a Hershel turret KT

Have a good one Herman

ALPHA

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