

regards pete
UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHH...Why didn't you just swap housings?Lord Haw-Haw wrote:FYI, HL T-34 metal track/drive wheels uses a shorter shaft as I just converted a Pershing steel to T34 by swapping the output shafts and final steel gear. ...Also had to grind the inner-rear-housings-lower edge (leaving just enough meat to hold the bushing) for chassis clearance. Hope this help those who want to upgrade to steel, as there isn't one specific for the T-34 yet.
-had already soldered the bushings in the yet to be broken-in boxes before realizing "that" T-34 version detailALPHA wrote:UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHH...Why didn't you just swap housings?Lord Haw-Haw wrote:FYI, HL T-34 metal track/drive wheels uses a shorter shaft as I just converted a Pershing steel to T34 by swapping the output shafts and final steel gear. ...Also had to grind the inner-rear-housings-lower edge (leaving just enough meat to hold the bushing) for chassis clearance. Hope this help those who want to upgrade to steel, as there isn't one specific for the T-34 yet.
ALPHA
Lord Haw-Haw wrote:-had already soldered the bushings in the yet to be broken-in boxes before realizing "that" T-34 version detailALPHA wrote:UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHH...Why didn't you just swap housings?Lord Haw-Haw wrote:FYI, HL T-34 metal track/drive wheels uses a shorter shaft as I just converted a Pershing steel to T34 by swapping the output shafts and final steel gear. ...Also had to grind the inner-rear-housings-lower edge (leaving just enough meat to hold the bushing) for chassis clearance. Hope this help those who want to upgrade to steel, as there isn't one specific for the T-34 yet.
ALPHA
Yes soldered -electronic not plumbing style,ALPHA wrote: You solder your bearings ?![]()
ALPHA
OOOOOOOOOO .........KAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYLord Haw-Haw wrote:Yes soldered -electronic not plumbing style,ALPHA wrote: You solder your bearings ?![]()
ALPHA
These where my first go. Read about it some forum, shimming was covered too (brass washers).
Runs much smoother, the gears will spin for seconds by themselves after twisting the shafts and very little vibration felt in your hand as they spin. None of that buzz sound/vibration from the mesh changing under changing speeds and loads. All this carried over in tank under 480 torque's.
I found also that I had to tweak the housings a little on both of the right gearboxes (another set for my Pershing) made me think it's was manufacturing process problem. Fix for me was slotting the housing's screw thru-holes where they sandwich (bottom). After the cross bracing was a final torque and the screws with slotted holes NOT fully torqued, hand spin test, tap with jewellers hammer till "true" fully torque screws, retest, repeat if needed. I use a bicycle "dry" chain wax during this alignment procedure, after words cleaned and super-glued screws and sandwich seam. Then applied a motorcycle "sticky" chain lube. Spin test after mounted in chassis, all settings didn't change![]()
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