"WHITE TIGER"

[HERMAN BIX]

Cheers Mr Cuppa, this second effort is getting a lot more involved than perhaps is smart or indeed recreational, but my heart tells me to go on with the details.............I can see it in the stars that sooner or sooner, I will have to succumb to the PE gods & get a full set of hull clamps etc and the folding tool to match.
The sense of achievement I got from those bloody light conduits , well, I was so happy I nearly shat a care-bear

[HERMAN BIX]

the screwdriver & brulee burner technique.........its ok, this is raw- before sanding the high spots off. the only place it didnt take was the join between the final drive plate and the upper glasis. That will need a filler. The turret turned out pretty good, but the different weld profiles made it a lot harder to do. im happy with the result, I feel a lot more controlled than trying to texture a filler of some sort.
The small secrewdriver conducted heat real well, so I drilled a small hole up the guts of a cork from a wine bottle.......problem solved. Gave me a tune up every so often though when I changed position & the head of the screwdriver which protruded from the cork got me in the web of my thumb
All lower hull plate mouldings and weld seam interlocking mouldings were treated the same.
Only the rear plate to do, will need some filler for that as well.
Once I sand the harsh peaks off the weld lines I reckon it will be ok.

[HERMAN BIX]

Lads, any of you that have used that miliput stuff to do weld profiles...............how do you get it so fine before its textured ?
I have a similar material, but it just will not bead small enough to look close to what I need. the joint between the upper glasis plate & the final drive plate below the MG & drivers vision block.
My stuff is used by builders for filling gaps around wooden window frames & door frames internally in house construction.
Good quality commercial compound, but I cant get it into a small enough bead out of the applicator.
Its like I need a semi-dry stick of it about 1mm diameter and 200mm long, then I could caulk it in along the joint.
I'd appreciate a heads-up from you old hands.

[ALPHA]

Lads, any of you that have used that miliput stuff to do weld profiles...............how do you get it so fine before its textured ?
I have a similar material, but it just will not bead small enough to look close to what I need. the joint between the upper glasis plate & the final drive plate below the MG & drivers vision block.
My stuff is used by builders for filling gaps around wooden window frames & door frames internally in house construction.
Good quality commercial compound, but I cant get it into a small enough bead out of the applicator.
Its like I need a semi-dry stick of it about 1mm diameter and 200mm long, then I could caulk it in along the joint.
I'd appreciate a heads-up from you old hands.

Hey Herman... the type of putty you uses is the same as what I use ...it's no good for doing welds...it hardens too fast... Milliput can be softened with water
this guy used it on his JS-2 build... and found when it gets tacky... he could just add a little water to retard the hardening process and bring back it's flexibility
http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/v ... +2#p102764

household stuff is way stronger...and made to repel water so you cannot retard the hardening process...with that said it is still possible to make welds...different process though... as instead of spreading and adding the weld texture at the same moment... you put the stringers of the plumbers putty down in the gaps of the Tiger hull where you want them..let it harden ...then chase it with a dremel and an engraving tip (do the stringers in small batches...cold mix)


ALPHA

[HERMAN BIX]

Well Mr Alpha, as it is said "Theres more to you than teeth, tits & ass"
Your advice worked.
I used the filler compound, waited until it was almost dry and used another jewellers screwdriver to press in the profile. I dont have a dremel, but waiting like an expectant father outside a delivery room for the stuff to go off was worth it.
Seemed like a hell of a job for 6 inches of weld, but Im happy enough with the result.
It didnt photograph to well though, but I believe that once its painted the effect will be good enough for what I need.
i have a few more weld enhancements to do, and the dreaded tool clamps to complete, then I can get on with the priming.

[ALPHA]

Just glad to have been of some service

ALPHA

[HERMAN BIX]

Got onto the deck mounted tow cables & barrel cleaning rods. In the absence of Aber mounting clamps I will use the stock mouldings off the tow cables as the eye mounts.
The barrel cleaining sections are made out of tooth picks ($2 a container)......and 2mm I.D. brass tube. I have some 1.5mm threaded rod off model aircraft control links that will do for the male sections of the cleaning hardware, all of which will be secured by yet to be decided brass stock material. I cut the copper tow cables and drilled out the brass end 'crimps' after advice from within this forum, and as we Kiwis say "it was a piece - of- piss" to get them looking just the right way.
I'm leaning towards the same approach for the track towing cables on the left side. Using the stock mounting profiles but with picture hanging cable or similar and the kit stock eyes grafted on.
Managed to score a 1M length of a wierd fibreglass woven - well- stuff really, from a trade electrical shop. After trying the most reputible automotive parts shops for fuel line with the correct I.D. and no joy(all tube was correct I.D. but huge O.D.) my father -in-law suggested that I try electrical heat resistant sheaf covering for oven related wiring.
Of course this was going to be my next logical step ....................NOT
This stuff is white(to bad-it will paint) and 7mm I.D. with a wall thickness of about 0.75mm..........making it a bang on fit for the tail ends of the air cleaner tubes.
It does not photograph well at all, but take my word on it, the stuff is spot on.

[jarndice]

Hermann my friend as you are determined to make a Tiger 1 with more detail than Krupps put out, here is something I did, So you have made the tow ropes and barrel cleaning rods, now you need to hold them in position, if you buy the SCHUMO BUTTERFLY /WING NUTS you realise they are just stamped out non working imitations BUT if you go to TIPS and TRICKS and scroll down to WORKING 1mm BUTTERFLY/WING NUTS I describe how to make them work, and they really do look good I promise, watching this build of yours with great admiration, a true example of how yet another MUG gets sucked into doing more detail than you ever imagined when you started!!!!shaun

[cupoftea]

This is shaping up to be a really nice Tiger Herman. keep up the good work and please keep posting pictures.

[tomhugill]

Hermann my friend as you are determined to make a Tiger 1 with more detail than Krupps put out, here is something I did, So you have made the tow ropes and barrel cleaning rods, now you need to hold them in position, if you buy the SCHUMO BUTTERFLY /WING NUTS you realise they are just stamped out non working imitations BUT if you go to TIPS and TRICKS and scroll down to WORKING 1mm BUTTERFLY/WING NUTS I describe how to make them work, and they really do look good I promise, watching this build of yours with great admiration, a true example of how yet another MUG gets sucked into doing more detail than you ever imagined when you started!!!!shaun

I'm going to call it tigeritus! And yes I am a sufferer