3D printing in practice

[Edwin]

Hello,

as did a few of you noticed , I have been about 1.5 years more into the topic 3D printing , also to give me your own picture and because I have seen really fast again how far wishes, hopes and real knowledge diverge . Something I have ever experienced in CNC milling and even today therefore it is practically non- use over and over again , or partly completed machinery on Ebay than € 1 auction and I must say that the requirements of the 3 D printing , if you get really creative want to work with it are still a bit higher , although cheaper and clean.

If you would like to buy a 3D printer is the first fact to learn a suitable 3D CAD program. While there are several sites on the internet to download finished drawings that are more nearly in one second frequency , but also I've found very little that I could do and nothing for our hobby . Even the few good drawings are never ready for printing and must always be edited. Even if you find a finished G- code this is always tailored to a specific printer and can work only with this properly.
And if so .... what you want with the 15904728 Flower Vase from Plastic ?
This is also every honest seller of 3D printers and those who confirm with success run a .

Then there is always the debate on the surfaces.
Well, are not smooth , but what you want and need . Also, I have looked more closely and it is usually more a matter of settings and time pressure what can be achieved there. To my surprise, very much, but even so one must deal extensively previously and you can also still rework the surfaces . For most applications that are feasible for our hobby the achievable surfaces are quite useful . A revolver in 1/16 I would not even want to print, but also constantly and continuously improved.

So I did earlier this year decided to put me to such a printer and occupied myself with manufacturers and technology. Since I have a little knowledge and there is a lot that is not continuous but worth recommending . Since I consider only printers that are constructed with lead screws from the hardware store , to which the own sellers say that it only works properly when consuming remodels him and the only 700 € is priced at a very well known provider of electronics , but , the start or as Gegensück devices for professional providers at € 20,000 .

I then decided to go for a printer kit Multirap M300 per the company Multec .
The manufacturer is as well accessible in Germany , the components supplied top quality and the construction of a 3D printer stable, well thought out and continous use by the built-in linear guides. What for me was also important is the new way of controlling with a tray in Standallone operation.
The structure was also more like a Lego robotics kit and this extensive and well documented instructions.
So then he stood on my table.



The good responsiveness was also still the same put to the test , as I had trouble printing the same times and were unable to achieve useful results , as the tops always remained open .
Here is a part of the experiment with this problem.



In a telephone conversation has turned out, however after a few minutes that I had a wrong firmware on the controller. With a little help but that was then resolved very quickly and I was able to start teach- me correctly .

Here is a series of relatively complex part to the Print support Struck doors inside and out with the one must then be broken out later. On the surface I have here , however, still placed no value.



Here this part during printing, you can better recognize the support structures .





As a comparison, I have also printed times with a finished G- code from Multec two vases overnight which I also want to say that I use a 0.5 mm nozzle. For finer prints , there are also 0.35 mm what the print times but slowed significantly . For just overnight.



Today I have the first part printed a sprocket to my Panzer III in 1/6 . Not with all the possibilities and with errors in the drawing. You can , yes, but even this would be usable even as a master with a little reworking.

Here when printing on the table.



And here now sometimes incorrectly identified as sprocket.





I print with PLA way that this material is odorless , can be printed easily and also does not warp like ABS .

Greeting Edwin

[ALPHA]

Nice Edwin..... I was wondering if anyone would start using this technology ...thanks for the pictures.... it's a process which I was curious about

ALPHA

[Edwin]

And it goes a little further.

By yet very complex ways and the many possibilities for adjusting the 3D print is a newcomer , a very complicated thing, but slowly I bereife far from all but a few contexts.

The decision to have a Standallone printer I do not regret any rate , simply because of the manachmal but very long print times .

I try , therefore, just a lot with the possibilities of various programs

A small example I have here. For test prints I downloaded from the Internet a small toy . Three rings are connected to each other and all three are together and interlocked printed. A matrimonial quite simple but the part is quite demanding if you want to print it.

The first printing tests I stopped in approach because eigendlich only the table was smeared with PLA. Once I understood as slow as to what settings you have to work were the rings in different settings and printed created by two programs.

The first pressure took even ever 3.5 hours. It was written with a layer of 0.3 mm on the visible exterior walls .

Here the pressure and for better reference, a USB stick to down .



From above, the outstanding rings. These are only to 30% with material between the outer layers

filled .

And so do the finished rings.





I created with another program and a standard profile for hollow parts of the second pressure. For hollow parts because the gap in the first printing was always crowded and everything blurred . But the pressure only lasted 22 minutes and was printed with 0.4 mm layer height .

Here you can see well that the top remains open.



And here again is a detailed view of the surface with the USB stick. This time corresponds to the surface what was here already often associated with the bad surfaces. Toy for a sufficient , but not more .



Third, the rings created by the same program again , but this time with my suitable settings. The pressure was still as I drove , but the printing time was given 2h 20m . The layer height on the outside that I have now adjusted to 0.1 mm with a light filling that fills more than 90% of the hollow space anyway.

Here the pressure.



The visible sides are now so fine that only nich minnimale processing is necessary and could reach a paint job even for the leveling of the surface and it is quite a lot more feasible. Currently I print with a 0.5 mm nozzle and I will also install one 0.35 mm. The only drawback to this fine finishes is the sometimes very long printing time . But this is relatively in master parts and the printer works alone anyway.

What I can not improve is the very slight angularity in curves. This is the file format specified volume of body out of sheer composite triangles generated. When I create a self- drawings, I can adjust just that and increase the resolution significantly . These files can then indeed be very large and the computational time in generating the G- code is considerably longer , but even that is well acceptable.

[ALPHA]

That is so cool Edwin.... I've been following this technology... it's fascinating to actually see the process first hand ..thank you for sharing

ALPHA

[Edwin]

With the toy it goes on too, but with a I have now drawn itself . Three rings each consisting of a spherical segment , which blend into one another , and this again printed in a single pass. So I can try the settings and Miscellaneous while drawing. Here I have for example the resolution of the triangles increases dramatically in dr drawing. Since the slicer needs ( the program that generates the G.Code ) ever to create 10 minutes to a print file but it works. To this end, I practice a little of the I becoming a little change to get a feel for the cause settings. The pressure is therefore not quite as fine as successful last time , but already around and without all the corners.







The second thing I tried today is a small fan that can cool the pressure part . So you can tall, slender and fine parts better printing.
Here I have to a switch case in which I was allowed to stand very high , the thin pages. The first pressure without cooling were completely crooked and so that's become much better.

[Woz]

Just spotted this-

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/m3 ... 3d-printer

Won't be long before everyone will have a 3d printer. $299

[Edwin]

Hi Woz,

I do not think so. The printer itself will never be the problem, but the software this is very demanding and even if you want to use ready-made drawings from the Internet. one must deal in great detail with the issue.
Also what CNC milling concerned predates years this opinion. Nevertheless, one can find a virtually unlimited use CNC milling machine in Ebay than 1 € auction again and again because it's just not as simple as many would like.

Cheers, Edwin

[Edwin]

And on it goes.

If you want to cool components that can also go wrong.

Here I have printed a speaker that has warped due to the cooling and then released during printing from the table.





But despite these small setbacks , from which I learn it's vorran . The cabinet I have adapted for my panther exactly in the bathtub and first printed in several parts.



And so it will look assembled.



in the tub , I can now plug in almost sucking it .



and the switch is the correct position.



But the best part is the sound ..... this comes wesetlich richer than with the old polybox . I suspect that this has to do with the largely hollow walls of the box.
So now I have to talk the first practical application .

And with the Second , for the printer , it 's straight on . In my experiments , I've noticed that may be the resistance of the filament role to affect the print result have . This is only hung on a profile piece and therefore does not roll evenly on them.
So I have a bracket drawn in which I can put a ball bearing and connect with a second with a rod . The whole thing then I screw easily on the profile and I can simply roll up the Fillament place .

Here are the two bearing blocks printed and ready.





But again, I had to learn first . The PLA also has a low shrinkage , which I had not yet taken into account in the first printing . Thus, the bearing does not fit into the holder. After I had this Skalliert by 2% , the stock now sits at attention as it should be in it.

We so small accidents also passioeren .
This bracket had come loose and moved the printing of the plate. This is the result .



And so then does the new, mounted Fillamentroller .



And now I can play the role simply stuck on the holder and it now rotates slightly evenly.



The function is of course also tested the same. Currently running a small company logo of me. Let's see how this comes off the printer.

[Edwin]

The lettering is now finished and after three attempts at a decent quality.

From the first attempt at the top until today the printed word.



The first two I did a little rework, the last is even more so as he had come out of the printer. The difference in the settings was just absolutely bare, but deuitlich to see. The difficulty was the greater Scriptures clean fill and the smaller by not smudging as you can see something on the first try.

Of course I have it also installed the same ....

[Phil]

That is so cool!