Panda Hobby Panzer 38(T)

This section is for builds that are not strictly Tamiya or Heng Long. For instance, replacing the electronics from a WSN or Matorro, or even a scratch-build.

Postby Son of a gun-ner » Fri Sep 13, 2019 11:43 am

I would suggest silicon grease that's used in the plumbing industry. It's a good moisture repellent, has better staying power than the thin silicon oils/lubes. Shouldn't harm any plastic. It's used on O rings, values etc, anything that has plastic/rubber, it's also used on washing machine seals.
Although it's unlikely it'll last in its intended use with all that water lashing at it, I should think it'll work well for you, but like any oils and greases, if they have an escape rout, they will need re-applying.

I'll be following this build with interest, some of you don't like an easy option.

Edit; it will also work with metal against plastic. And is used on cars etc, especially on moving plastic parts.

Edit 2; just found this.
TETROSYL LTD Silicone Grease Multi Purpose Grease Water Repellent Carlube 70g: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TETROSYL-LTD-S ... lp_pl_dp_3
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Postby silversurfer1947 » Fri Sep 13, 2019 1:16 pm

Thanks Mick, both for the advice and the link
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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Fri Sep 13, 2019 1:20 pm

You're welcome Richard.
Funny, I'm repairing a neighbour's electric window at the moment and I need some, Halfords don't list it, my local car trade suppliers only have sprays, which are no good for what I need, looks like I've got to pop to a plumbers, yet I have some somewhere and can't find it lol.
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Postby Xiaoshan_Sailor » Fri Sep 13, 2019 2:15 pm

c.rainford73 wrote:
Xiaoshan_Sailor wrote:Neither has stock nor plan to produce. I have the 38(t) kit & was in contact just last week with S.K. & he only plans to run the Pz II Luchs again. Re future kits, he plans to develop one for the pending Classy Hobby M5A1 once he gets his hands on a kit & very interested in doing another for the new Takom Pz I.

If you need Spade Ace track sets, I've only found them from several dealers on Taobao. Price is around $30 at current exchange.


Do you have a link for tracks?


https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1 ... 1965187098

TB1emLBHFXXXXb0XFXXXXXXXXXX_!!0-item_pic.jpg
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Postby silversurfer1947 » Fri Sep 13, 2019 2:25 pm

This morning I found my first problem, one of my own making I have to admit. When I started work on the kit, I decided to give everything a coat of primer beforehand. Today I started on the road wheels. They need modification anyway to become free running. The parts are a very good fit, which would be great in a static model. Having the primer on has exacerbated the problem, so I am now working my way through them slowly, rubbing them down.
IMG_20190913_133545.jpg
On the right hand side of the photo is what is effectively the axle. Just above this is the small plate which bears against the leaf spring suspension. The instructions say to widen the gap between this and the axle. so far I have not found a satisfactory way to do this, so have resorted to sanding down the socket on the wheel.
IMG_20190913_135755.jpg
The situation was not helped when I found that the wheel moulding is imperceptably off centre. It binds for 50% of its circumference. I have overcome this, and the wheel rotates.
IMG_20190913_141313.jpg
IMG_20190913_141313.jpg (53.84 KiB) Viewed 227 times
I would, however, like to widen the gap as suggested as I don't want to make the wheel hub any thinner. If anyone can suggest how to reduce the thickness of the plate I shall be grateful. I have tried wet and dry, but can not get any pressure against it.
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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Fri Sep 13, 2019 2:40 pm

Have you got any of those dremel sanding drums? The type you put on a rubber expanding arbor.
Just need to work out how to hold the drum to use by HAND.

These things.

Drum Sanding Kit Sanding Sleeves
https://www.toolstation.com/drum-sandin ... 4wEALw_wcB

Triton Aluminium Oxide Sanding Sleeve Set 13-76mm 80 Grit 6 Pcs | Bobbin Sanding Sleeves | Screwfix.com
https://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-alumi ... A3EALw_wcB

Unless you have some suitable tube you can wrap or glue some sanding sheet around, you may need something a bit course to speed things up, and wouldn't need so much pressure. Again, to be used by hand.
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Postby c.rainford73 » Fri Sep 13, 2019 3:06 pm

Richard have you looked at my build thread? If I remember I sanded down the exterior of the wheel hub and very carefully hand sanded the arm. The dremel may work but due to the fragile nature of the plastic I stayed away from it.
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Postby silversurfer1947 » Fri Sep 13, 2019 3:23 pm

If I use anything from the Dremel, it will be the sanding drum in my fingers. I will have a look, but I don't think I have any suitable tube. The machine is far too viscious, as Carl has said. I will have another read of Carl's thread. I did read it, but I think my brain is full and it did not stick. Thank you both. I am sure I can progress in an orderly manner with the benefit of your advice.
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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Fri Sep 13, 2019 4:01 pm

Like I said and re emphasised, by hand, I was never suggesting using the dremel. It's just that most people have those drum sanders for their dremels. And one can make useful sanding HAND tools with them.
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Postby silversurfer1947 » Fri Sep 20, 2019 11:30 am

Slow progress, I'm afraid. I have made up and fitted the PE mudguard brackets. Vey impressed with the way they have used the locating tuds as rivets. The brackets all fitted perfectly with one odd exception. On the rear left bracket, the studs did not match the holes in the bracket. It was easy to rectify though. Slicing very carefully with my trusty Swann & Morton scalpel, I removed the offending stud, glued on the bracket and refitted the stud into the empty hole.
IMG_20190919_150803_1.jpg
IMG_20190919_150838.jpg


I have done other work, but no photos as yet. If I have time before I go away, I will get some more posted
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Postby silversurfer1947 » Tue Oct 08, 2019 3:04 pm

I have been away, but hope to have an update soon. Whilst I was away, the postman delivered a package containing a pair of Aber machine guns.
858b8a0bd7408c63d45b9b76597385eb.image.591x445.jpg
As the rc upgrade kit contains an led with fibre optic for one machine gun, I am wondering about the feasibility of drilling out one barrel. Helpful thoughts and suggestions would be welcome.
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Postby jarndice » Tue Oct 08, 2019 3:13 pm

I asked this question when I wanted to fit Abers M2 .50 Brownings on the WSN /TORRO M16 Half-track, The consensus being Don't waste your time :lolno:

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Tue Oct 08, 2019 3:21 pm

Richard, for something like that, it would be best done on a lathe.
To drill it out on a drill stand you'd need the gun barrel to be perfectly vertical, and have to use a very good quality accurately sharpened drill bit.
If the two cutting edges on the drill bit aren't equal, even by a tiny unnoticeable amount, the drill bit can wander sideways, especially in a soft material like brass.

Edit; to add, on a lathe, as the work piece is revolving and not the drill bit, an inaccurately sharpened drill bit will just make the hole a little bigger, but will stay straight.
But when the work piece is stationary and the drill bit spins, inaccurate sharpening causes the drill bit to veer off, especially thin bits.
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Postby silversurfer1947 » Tue Oct 08, 2019 3:41 pm

Thanks both. I have a friend who makes working model steam engines and has a range of engineering machinery. I shall ask. He can only say no.
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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Tue Oct 08, 2019 3:54 pm

silversurfer1947 wrote:Thanks both. I have a friend who makes working model steam engines and has a range of engineering machinery. I shall ask. He can only say no.

Fingers crossed. It's also the delicate nature of those barrels, not easy to hold safely. Shame they never made them with holes down the barrels already in them.
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Postby silversurfer1947 » Sun Oct 13, 2019 11:00 am

In what I can only ascribe to a moment of temporary insanity, I decided it would be good to have opening hatches. I managed to track down some miniature brass hinges, only 4mm square when opened, almost a perfect match for the hinges on the driver's hatch. To secure them I will be using 0.8mm rivets from https://www.prime-miniatures.co.uk/cont ... -rivets-50 with the assistance of a drop of superglue.
IMG_20191013_103926.jpg
The holes in the hinges are slightly too small so they were reamed out with a pin vice and 0.8mm drill. I used a 0.7mm drill for the holes in the hatch. This gave me a tight push fit for the rivets. 2 rivets down, 6 more to go.
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Postby silversurfer1947 » Wed Oct 16, 2019 11:45 am

Something I had forgotten about dropped through my letterbox this morning - a pack of Voyager photo etch. There is some duplication with the kit but not much.
6a0df468acecf37c4585ab703316d0fa.image.900x709.jpg
A quick inspection shows that it will keep me occupied for some while. In view of my inate ability to drop small pieces of brass etching into the black hole that inhabits the floor of my work room mean I shall have to devise a better way of working.
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Postby Kaczor » Wed Oct 16, 2019 12:00 pm

jarndice wrote:I asked this question when I wanted to fit Abers M2 .50 Brownings on the WSN /TORRO M16 Half-track, The consensus being Don't waste your time :lolno:

My father drilled a hole on lathe with no problem :) Now three more and could try on my M16 ;) Hole size is 1.2mm, fits fiber glass tube.
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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Wed Oct 16, 2019 12:01 pm

I purchased a large rectangular white plastic tray from Ikea for my grandson to make his Lego models on, only has a shallow rim, and wasn't expensive, it was some time ago, and was only two or three quid. Would be excellent for assembling small parts :thumbup:
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Postby silversurfer1947 » Wed Oct 16, 2019 12:09 pm

Son of a gun-ner wrote:I purchased a large rectangular white plastic tray from Ikea for my grandson to make his Lego models on, only has a shallow rim, and wasn't expensive, it was some time ago, and was only two or three quid. Would be excellent for assembling small parts :thumbup:

Sounds like a good idea.
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