1/24 Vs Tanks and 3S lipo

[MichaelC]

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone had try to fit a 3S lipo (11.1 v norminal) to a 8 x 1.5v AA power VsTank ? I tried it today and it looks like only the motors are functioning, and nothing MFU driven is working. I checked the voltage and the lipo and the AA is virtually the same. Could the ampere be the problem ? Luckily I didn't seem to have caused any damage as after the lipo test I put the AA's back in and it is working again.

Regards,
MichaelC.

[Will01Capri]

I also tried using different batteries in my 1/24 tank. But he's normally have 8x AA size cells at 1.2 and therefore should be approx 9.6v. The 3s lipo should be 11.1v and the onboard electronics just switch off at higher voltage than they can run on.
In the engine I just upgraded my battery pack in the tank to a higher current rated pack. Was 700mah and upgraded to 2600mah. Far more torque and longer running times.

[MichaelC]

I also tried using different batteries in my 1/24 tank. But he's normally have 8x AA size cells at 1.2 and therefore should be approx 9.6v. The 3s lipo should be 11.1v and the onboard electronics just switch off at higher voltage than they can run on.
In the engine I just upgraded my battery pack in the tank to a higher current rated pack. Was 700mah and upgraded to 2600mah. Far more torque and longer running times.

Yeah maybe I will try 2S and see how that goes. Funny enough when I measured it before load it was the same for the 8 x 1.5v or 3S lipo were both at around 11v.

[MichaelC]

Hi Mr Capri, were the AA batteries you used rechargeable?
And Mr C, were yours non rechargeable AA batteries?

Mine was good old Ikea AAs. Non-rechargeable.

[MichaelC]

Funny enough 2S lipo yield the same result, but to a lesser degree. Motors work and so does firing with much less gusto than a 3S, nothing else works.

I guess I am sticking with AAs.......

[Will01Capri]

Sorry noticed some of the wording in my last reply was done to prdeictive text change son my phone!

The lower vcltage also not working with aanythin else makes sense.

These 1/24 tanks seem to mostly work off a 8xAA size cell pack of 1.2V each.
As mentioned in my reply you will find that higher voltage will cause issues, this is because the board electronics cannot run. It also makes sense you have reduced power on the motors trying 7.2V.

I tried plugging in a 6 cell nicad into my tank and although it seem to drive, some things didn't work like the sound and turret control. But my BB cannon did?
The reason will be down to the driver circuits in the on board printed boards. The transistors they use will be rated for a set voltage.

I have actually changed my tank to run a separate receiver for drive controls compared to the original controller.
I have two separate escs rated for 20A on the original 280 size motors. I have also put in higher rated motors as i have burnt out originals which caused a circuit board melt down.
Because of this i have converted a 8xAA cell pack to run the turret system with original controller and the sound effect/drive motor circuit disconnected.
Then i have a sepearate 27mhz system running drive motors only on 2 channels on an old accoms transmitter which i converted to have two throttle sticks.

If i try to run 9.6v through my escs they shut off, so these actually have a extra connector to run escs at only 8.4v. In time i will post pictures once i work that out to show my mad hair brain tank.
I hope that helps

[MichaelC]

Good to know, and sorry, my IR recoil firing also worked along with the motors so I have the exact same result as you.

I will stick with AAs...... I don't drive them enough to investigate or invest further. I thought it would be a slam dunk as I had converted 9.6v AAs vehicles before. The Vs Tank is a much more sophisticated RC tank than I have expected actually.