Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
hello all,
as stated in my thread where i am asking for help, i start here the building process thread of this vehicle
I've purchased a second hand old Pz IV tank to start with. Low profile gearboxes and asiatam track tensioner system are already installed, also, some needed corrections to the road train have been done, lower the 4th return roller -4mm and raise the gearboxes shafts +4mm
this is the PzIV when i purchased it:
Started the hull modifications, stripping the tank from the turret, and all external bits:
i emptied completely the hull, discarded the old Rx14, speaker, plastic gearboxes, etc...
and stared the dirty work. First of all, the rear engine plate wasn't like the HL, it has an inclination ,so, cut and paste about 2.5mm
i used a bier can alu to cover the zone:
the rear end return rollers lowered 4mm:
the gearboxes shaft location raised 4mm:
from the external chassis of two old and unserviceable video recorders, i made the internal perimetral reinforcements of the lower hull and the new 4mm gearbox support plate:
support gearbox installed, metal hull reinforcements installed, low profile gears installed, liquid resin 'installed' on the bottom, now you cannot flex the hull anymore!
regarding the resin tip, i saw it on several German forums, so i took the decision to try it. The resin, added to the perimetral metal reinforcement of the lower hull, they do that the lower hull couldn't be flexed any more. It has his downside too, the weight. I've now in the process of reinforce the road wheels insertions on the hull from the downside...
i have removed the plastic 'tensioners' to fit the asiatam ones. this is how i did it:
1-) cut the INNER molded part of the tensioners (the part were the nut is). To do it i used for my first time the thread method, because is the better way to cut this part without touch ANYTHING around. I've been impressed of how easy it is!.
2-) drill the hole for the tensioner axle/shaft. To do it i used a drill of the same diameter of the current axle, i inserted it to the bottom of the hole (so it is a tight fit and the danger of deviating doing the hole is minor) , with the hull lying on it's side, take care to have it vertical, and slowly drilling the hole from outside to inside. When the tensioner arrives i will drill the appropriate diameter for the shaft.
3-) cut the outer molded part of the tensioners using the same thread method.
4-) with the cutter of the image and the mini hammer, and with the hull hold between my knees, cut with care both sides and get rid of the excess plastic that the thread has not cut (in my case the cuts were no too straight)
5-) file to left the sides very polite and vertical
6-) use a long and straight stick of the appropriate diameter to verify that both tensioners are facing each other in the right way
the pics:
now the side view looks like a PzIV with the complete road train on the correct position, a lot of work still to do...
more to follow
best regards
as stated in my thread where i am asking for help, i start here the building process thread of this vehicle
I've purchased a second hand old Pz IV tank to start with. Low profile gearboxes and asiatam track tensioner system are already installed, also, some needed corrections to the road train have been done, lower the 4th return roller -4mm and raise the gearboxes shafts +4mm
this is the PzIV when i purchased it:
Started the hull modifications, stripping the tank from the turret, and all external bits:
i emptied completely the hull, discarded the old Rx14, speaker, plastic gearboxes, etc...
and stared the dirty work. First of all, the rear engine plate wasn't like the HL, it has an inclination ,so, cut and paste about 2.5mm
i used a bier can alu to cover the zone:
the rear end return rollers lowered 4mm:
the gearboxes shaft location raised 4mm:
from the external chassis of two old and unserviceable video recorders, i made the internal perimetral reinforcements of the lower hull and the new 4mm gearbox support plate:
support gearbox installed, metal hull reinforcements installed, low profile gears installed, liquid resin 'installed' on the bottom, now you cannot flex the hull anymore!
regarding the resin tip, i saw it on several German forums, so i took the decision to try it. The resin, added to the perimetral metal reinforcement of the lower hull, they do that the lower hull couldn't be flexed any more. It has his downside too, the weight. I've now in the process of reinforce the road wheels insertions on the hull from the downside...
i have removed the plastic 'tensioners' to fit the asiatam ones. this is how i did it:
1-) cut the INNER molded part of the tensioners (the part were the nut is). To do it i used for my first time the thread method, because is the better way to cut this part without touch ANYTHING around. I've been impressed of how easy it is!.
2-) drill the hole for the tensioner axle/shaft. To do it i used a drill of the same diameter of the current axle, i inserted it to the bottom of the hole (so it is a tight fit and the danger of deviating doing the hole is minor) , with the hull lying on it's side, take care to have it vertical, and slowly drilling the hole from outside to inside. When the tensioner arrives i will drill the appropriate diameter for the shaft.
3-) cut the outer molded part of the tensioners using the same thread method.
4-) with the cutter of the image and the mini hammer, and with the hull hold between my knees, cut with care both sides and get rid of the excess plastic that the thread has not cut (in my case the cuts were no too straight)
5-) file to left the sides very polite and vertical
6-) use a long and straight stick of the appropriate diameter to verify that both tensioners are facing each other in the right way
the pics:
now the side view looks like a PzIV with the complete road train on the correct position, a lot of work still to do...
more to follow
best regards
Jussek
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552
- dgsselkirk
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Re: Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
Looks great so far! We have one on display near me at the Borden Tank Park. Did a couple of 1/35th back in my younger years. This would be an interesting project to put IR into! I will follow your thread with interest and see if I want to take up the challenge! LOL!
"There are things in Russia which are not as they seem..."
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
- Wildboar44
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Re: Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
I admire your style...... Jussek. One day I would like to do a scratch build/conversion ... will follow with great interest
Yesterday is our history, Tomorrow is an eternal mistery, Today is a gift, its why its called "The Present".
Re: Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
welll... thanks for your kind and undeserved comments!
slow progress this weekend, but i had to do the 8 pieces for reinforce the road wheels insertions to the lower hull one by one:
and the support and aerial base:
more to follow
best regards
slow progress this weekend, but i had to do the 8 pieces for reinforce the road wheels insertions to the lower hull one by one:
and the support and aerial base:
more to follow
best regards
Jussek
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552
Re: Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
hello chaps,
time to mod the radiooperator's lid, it will be moveable in order to put the on/off switch and volume poti under the hatch...
i made two moving hinges with a 3mm plastic piece, two 0.9mm nails and two 0.12mm brass strips
covered the joint areas with milliput
and now, waiting to the milliput to cure to smooth it with sandpaper...
more to follow
time to mod the radiooperator's lid, it will be moveable in order to put the on/off switch and volume poti under the hatch...
i made two moving hinges with a 3mm plastic piece, two 0.9mm nails and two 0.12mm brass strips
covered the joint areas with milliput
and now, waiting to the milliput to cure to smooth it with sandpaper...
more to follow
Jussek
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552
- lister fiend
- Sergeant
- Posts: 565
- Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2012 3:38 pm
- Location: ashvale, hampshire
Re: Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
hi jussek,
that certainly is a challenging build
lovely work sofar & a great build thread with lots of good photos.
keep it coming fella
lister
that certainly is a challenging build
lovely work sofar & a great build thread with lots of good photos.
keep it coming fella
lister
Re: Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
Hey Jussek,
Lovely build and will be following closely. Quick question, how did you cut the hatch ? Did you use the thread method that people been talking about here ? It looks like you might have use small drill bit and put holes all around and then punched it out ?
Lovely build and will be following closely. Quick question, how did you cut the hatch ? Did you use the thread method that people been talking about here ? It looks like you might have use small drill bit and put holes all around and then punched it out ?
Re: Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
hello again,
thank you very much for your kind words m8s!
@Michael,
i tried the thread method, but it was impossible for me to have the hull still and use both hands to move the thread, so i switched to the drill method. I used a 0.9mm drill mounted in the rotary tool, and it took very little to have all the holes done. Then i used a cutter to finish the cutting job.
this is the final result:
now working on the 'firewall' between engine compartment and the rest, also the gears covers and the mountin plate for the buttons...
@Lister,
challenging is short! the flak has arrived at home, and i will have a hard time trying to convert it to RC capable...
best regards!
thank you very much for your kind words m8s!
@Michael,
i tried the thread method, but it was impossible for me to have the hull still and use both hands to move the thread, so i switched to the drill method. I used a 0.9mm drill mounted in the rotary tool, and it took very little to have all the holes done. Then i used a cutter to finish the cutting job.
this is the final result:
now working on the 'firewall' between engine compartment and the rest, also the gears covers and the mountin plate for the buttons...
@Lister,
challenging is short! the flak has arrived at home, and i will have a hard time trying to convert it to RC capable...
best regards!
Jussek
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552
- Red Devils
- Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 872
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- Contact:
Re: Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
Great looking conversion Jussek, will be following this one...
Derek
Derek
The Princess Patricia's Canadian Light Infantry
First in the Field - Since 1914.
First in the Field - Since 1914.
Re: Jussek's Sd Kfz 161/4 Wirbelwind Projekt
thank you Red Devil
well, some advances, not too much it seems, but very time consuming...
building process of the engine compartment's firewall and gearbox covers:
as I said earlier, I chopped off the hull mounts to gain space, and i will use neodymium magnets to join together the lower and upper hulls. here the screws on the frontal lower hull, in this way you can adjust the eight accurately to close the gap completely:
and then the magnets on the front upper hull
now I'm working on the rear part, I will post the images soon.
and this is how the complete cover for the gearbox ans magnets looks. The 'castle' you see is where the switch and poti will be located, and is placed just below the radio operator hatch:
all this is for the good news, now the bad ones...
the flak has arrived, and I've to say, it is NOT what i wanted. It's static, and to mod it to be RC will be a nightmare. it seems to me that is has been cloned in an amateur fashion, it has a LOT of parts that have to be cutted, filed, chopped, etc... the turret base is almost 1cm in thickness, and i do not know HOW i will work on this! ... also, the guns are completely metallic and solid. I've already ordered brass tubes to replace the current ones, in order to let the fibre optic cable to pass through. The main problem will be drill the gun metal bodys to let the cable to pass...
here you are some pics, i will made some more with macro, so you will see the 'details'...
stay tunned
best regards
well, some advances, not too much it seems, but very time consuming...
building process of the engine compartment's firewall and gearbox covers:
as I said earlier, I chopped off the hull mounts to gain space, and i will use neodymium magnets to join together the lower and upper hulls. here the screws on the frontal lower hull, in this way you can adjust the eight accurately to close the gap completely:
and then the magnets on the front upper hull
now I'm working on the rear part, I will post the images soon.
and this is how the complete cover for the gearbox ans magnets looks. The 'castle' you see is where the switch and poti will be located, and is placed just below the radio operator hatch:
all this is for the good news, now the bad ones...
the flak has arrived, and I've to say, it is NOT what i wanted. It's static, and to mod it to be RC will be a nightmare. it seems to me that is has been cloned in an amateur fashion, it has a LOT of parts that have to be cutted, filed, chopped, etc... the turret base is almost 1cm in thickness, and i do not know HOW i will work on this! ... also, the guns are completely metallic and solid. I've already ordered brass tubes to replace the current ones, in order to let the fibre optic cable to pass through. The main problem will be drill the gun metal bodys to let the cable to pass...
here you are some pics, i will made some more with macro, so you will see the 'details'...
stay tunned
best regards
Jussek
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Club-RC-Reus-Secci%C3%B3-de-Modelisme-Militar-Radiocontrolat-PzGr-Tarraco/639220812799552