RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hello Guys, a year ago I logged on here in the forum, now it's time to write a report here. Anticipation, my English is not the best, wants to say so; you are allowed to correct me.

Almost exactly a year ago I bought myself the Kingtiger by Torro. Not the new RTR version, but only the modules, sees: http://www.torro-shop.de/index.php/cat/ ... tiger.html.

My shopping list: for € 99.90 the lower hull, the upper hull with BB for 149 €, metal chains in black for 64.90 €, aluminum roadwheels set for € 59.90, € 39.90 5in1 metal gears and for idlers and drive sprockets19.90 €, makes together € 443.50.

A few months later, I changed my upper hull to infrared-version.
To control the tank I chose the RX 18, later I changed to the ElMod Eco with Blaster for the sound. It cost again 200 € and I needed also a 6-channel remote control with transmitter, but it’s a very fine control unit.

First must be removed completely two sprues under the front plate of the upper hull; I also have the second and third row removed to the transverse stiffening, because otherwise by my KT the upper hull does not fit on the lower hull.
Here is a first image after the installation of the modules.
Some mistakes were obvious, such as only partially zimmerit (upper hull so, no rest) and the two gaps between the rear plate and upper hull. A detailed report and many photos on this topic here: http://www.rc-panzerketten-forum.com/wb ... adid=30350
Up to the next report.

Looks great so far. Keep up the hard work.

After my first experience with a Tiger 1 and the heavy weight of the KT was clear, it must be installed stabilizers to the gear axles. I did not buy; I made drawings from the stabilizers and made it on the lathe. Suitable bearings bought and finished. Unfortunately, only nearly complete, because the gear axles were very difficult in the bearing, so even with fine sandpaper, the gear axles sanded until they fitted into the bearing. The countershaft and front plate are screwed and glued at the KT, one of the screw holes I have co-used for the stabilizers and even drilled a second to do so.
The gear plate was originally attached only twice in the middle of the longitudinal axis and waggled thereby slightly. So I've left and right created an attachment point (to seen in the red circles in the next image).
The original base of Torro for electronics, smoke and sound I haven’t used because that was for me too wishy-washy. Can I say so? However, I made a base plate of an old 3 mm aluminum plate; this is also simultaneous a splash guard against the grease from the gearboxes. Here are two images of the unfinished state.
While driving I had noticed that the idler arm can move. Here is another photo. I bought matching brass tube, cut small bushes and lined it.
Then ElMod Eco and Blaster IV installed, the remote control is from Carson (reflex stick 6 channel 2.4 GHz). Secured is the board with a 10 amp fuse. My speaker is from Visaton, the FRS 8. I have built a plywood box for the speaker. Here is a photo of the complete view inside.
I had to swap the channels to receive the ideal-standard-tank control. So ElMod in 6 channel mode, preparing for the remote control right stick Y-axis forward/back and X-axis left/right. On the left stick Y-axis cannon up/cannon down and shot/MG and on the X-axis turret turn right/left.
The on-off-on switch for Channel 5 is for light on/off and engine start/stop, the on-off-on switch for channel 6 is for user sounds.
At this point, sometimes even a thank you to Annanas from the RC-Panzerketten-forum, I think the fine KT sound file was his work.
The ride in the standard mode of Eco was not really convincing, and then I changed to User defined, and set on the PC. And then? Just great driving performance; this cool mass simulation cannot be compared with the response and acceleration of a tank with HL.
So far for technic, now is time for detailing the KT; but not in this report.

Nice man, we need a video of this beast soon

Hello maxmekker,

my report will appear here in the forum after the completion of the tank. I do not anticipate, therefore, the images in the reports are sufficient for now. I do not promise too much, but later I could post a short video, we'll see

Time for detailing
The detailing began with the elimination of the mistakes from Torro, first the two gaps between the rear plate and upper hull. I cut strips from Poly plates and glued them on the side of the rear plate. Processed with a scalpel and a sanding file and in between, from time to time, I make a check.
Take a look at the next image, it shows the eliminated mistake and, because I don't want to use the original mudguards, the closed mudguard attachment.
The Torro exhaust pipes didn't look like the originals, so I built some new. I took 6 mm brass tube for that.
Later I've changed the exhaust pipes again and I replaced the aluminum rings by "real" screw flanges, selfmade from 0.4 mm copper plate and screws M 0.8. The fenders I've also made myself from 0.4 mm copper plate, the parts are drawn first, then cutted from the copper plate and soldered. The hinges are made of 0.3 mm brass plate, screwed to the side with bolts M 0.8 and above with bolts M 1.2, due to the strength.
I have also installed the C-hook from the accessories (are removable) and I built a bucket and a functionally rear light.
More detailing follows in the next report.

wow nice kitty mate keep them pics coming

Amazing!

Thanks for flowers mens!
Special for the lovers of pics I'll try to post every day a new short report - with existing pics.
For a later report (or last), I'll make a few Photos with details of the tank in the end state...
... and when possible, a short video

Today’s report is not spectacular, but it shows the initial situation at Torro Kingtiger, here especially the upper hull.

My KT had before the disassembly a few meters or even more miles outdoors behind him. When disassembling I noticed that two ball bearings of the road wheels were already knocked out completely. Of course, I've changed both, but even more importantly the reason why this happened. The slide bearings of the two swing arms were already completely loose, several others I could follow suit, there was missing a drop of thread lock. To follow suit but you have to dismantle all the swing arms again and remove the plastic side panels of the upper hull, otherwise you will not come at the screws. But that goes simple with these torsion bars. In each case, remove the small spring clamp from the brass tube, take the brass tube from the swing arms and torsion simply take out, installed in reverse order.

Here are a few photos after the disassembly.
Left side view, you can already see the existing etch parts, not bad quality.
Here the etched parts a bit closer, and especially near the mistake in the zimmerit on the welding seam of the rear panel. But zimmerit is still coming anyway.
Another shot of the rear end, the old antenna has already been removed. I think the level of details is not bad; the joints between the armor plate, the screw heads, the lifting lugs, the fan with grilles as well as the motor cover are acceptable.
Enough for today, up to the next report, part 5.