RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi. I brought my Tiger second hand off ebay. I had earlier brought my young son a brand new Tiger for his birthday and I didn't think he would like the idea of me taking it to bits. My Tiger cost about £30 but wasn't in working order so I thought hear we go. After reading the forums to find out how to strip the tank down I managed to get the tank working (all it was a loose wire). As it was an early Heng Long Tiger I had to change around the gun mantle, the pistol port and the commander hatch on the turret. I also added smoke dischargers, a barrel extension, an escape hatch and a few mods to the turret itself with a heat gun. I had to get a new escape hatch as I melted the original one by mistake.

The next thing I did was remove the tools from the main body, open up the driver slit, open the drivers and machine gunners hatches, add new lights and use the heat gun again. I opened up the drivers hatch, etc because I wanted to move the on off switch from the bottom of the tank and add a volume switch.

Looks great so far Sunray, looking forward to seeing it finished.
Cheers Ken

Now it was the turn of the main hull. I decided to get metal tracks, metal sprocket and idler wheels, track tensioner, metal suspension arms, metal reinforcing bars, metal gears and new RX18 Control Box. Most of the stuff was straight forward to fit except for the track tensioner, suspension arms and the RX18.

The track tensioner I got was an early version which I found was too loose a fit some I decided to modify it a bit. This is what I did. I went to my local DIY store and bought brass tubing of different diameters to put over the idler shaft to increase the diameter but not restrict movement on the shaft. The tubing is placed on the tensioner shaft. I used a 10mm bearing which I got from my local model shop for about £1.50 each.

Thanks for that Ken.
Ian

Because the diameter of the bearing was 10mm I had to widen the hole of the Idler wheel as it was 9.5mm. This was done with my Dremel. To ensure a closer fit for the rear half of the Idler wheel around the shaft I added a brass collet which is quite easy even for me. I cut about a 5mm piece of the brass tubing cut into it with tin snipes. The collet is then placed in the idler wheel. Now push the collet in so it is flush with the Idler wheel. On the shaft itself I added a few washes and covered it in grease. I placed the wheel on the shaft then added one or two more washes. I tighten then together using a nut, just enough to ensure the wheel was free running. I then added a nut filed down to fit and super glued to the end of the shaft. I didn't use lock nuts as I didn't have the right size. I then fitted the front half of the Idler wheel. It now spins freely on the shaft with little or no play.

After the Idler wheels were finished I fitted the Track Tensioner Bar to the back of the hull. I removed the plastic Idler Wheel Hub and made hole bigger to take the Idler Wheel Stub Axles. Also I removed the old Controller Card and Gears. I bought some metal Suspension Arms but the ones I got needed a little work to fit. To start with, the holes that hold the stub axle for the track wheels were squared so I used a drill bit in a pin vice to round the holes off. It didn't take too much effort as the metal is soft. These Suspension Arms didn't have anyway as I could see of securely fixing the axles to them. Out with the Dremel again. I drilled a 2.5mm hole and used a 3mm tap the cut the thread and I used 3mm grub screws. The Stub Axle I found wouldn't fit so out with the dremel and a stone and I ground off the spline to make the Axle smooth. Now all you have to do is reassemble the Suspension Arms by fitting the back to the Hull. I fitted metal reinforcing bars and attached the Arms and Axles to them using the original springs.

I wanted to move the on/off switch from the bottom of the Hull. I cut off the plastic moulding that held the switch inside the Hull to ensure the floor of the Hull was flush but I left the Battery Housing alone. I patched the holes with a CD case cut to size and I filled with filler. I made a little assembly to hold the RX18 Controller Box using another CD case and corners off packing that they use on toy tanks. I installed the new motors and gears to the Hull which is straight forward. Now for the switches. I made brackets from plastic packing for the on/off switch and volume control. The brackets were super glued to the lower Hull. I placed them on the Hull below the Divers and Machine Gunners Hatches. I mounted the Receiver on the Battery Housing using the plastic packing. I read some where on the forum about mounting the Antenna inside the Hull so this is how I did it. I used the packing again to make the bracket. I used copper earthing wire and I stripped off the sheath leaving just the copper. I measured a length approx one and a half the length of the Antenna that came with the tank. I then borrowed one of the kids "Nerf Gun Bullets". I cut off the top of the bullet and inserted a biro pen in it cut to size. Then I wrapped the copper wire around the bullet and biro. I attached the home Antenna to the bracket and attached the Antenna Cable from the Receiver. I can't take the credit as I got the idea off the forum, this is how I did it and it works. I read about the RX18 overheating so I fitted an old PC CPU fan to it. It doesn't spin at the same rev's as it did on a PC but it keeps the RX18 cool. Lastly I fitted a speaker.

I am so impressed with this build. Awesome

I decided to add some Zimmerit so I got hold of a kit off one of the web sites. I had to play around with but I managed to glue it on and fill the gap's then I added some spare track to the Turret and Tools to the Hull.

I have never used an airbrush before but I decided to give it a go. I use to use enamel paints before but I thought I would give acrylics ago. The paint I used is Vallejo Model Air and Vallejo Model Color. Before I had ago at the Tiger I thought I have ago at something a bit smaller. Once I tidied up the Tank Hull I started to paint. First I sprayed everything with a primer coat of grey. The good thing about acrylics is next to no smell, dries quickly and it easy to clean. Then I did the pre shading with black primer. Next I sprayed on the base coat and then the camouflage. I then sprayed everything with a coat of Klear Floor Polish (the new one) before applying so decals I bought. I used Micro Set and Micro Sol. The clamps for the tools was made from metal off a mackerel tin and the clamp for the light cable was off a drinks can. After the decals had set I applied a coat of flat vanish as my wife commented it being too shiney. Every Tank I have ever seem has gone paint chips and a bit of damage so I decided to make the a bit neglected and battle weary. So I used the base colour to chip the camouflage.