Johnsons Klear.

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Abo
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Johnsons Klear.

Post by Abo »

Guys, need some advice, I'm going to be trying Klear on my next project, does anyone have any first hand knowledge whether its sprayed on neat or diluted with anything else? Its to be used as an all over sealer prior to decals to be added then used again after as an all over sealant prior to matting. Any other info regarding its use/things to look out for/not to do etc would be welcome. Many thanks.

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FreakyDude
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Re: Johnsons Klear.

Post by FreakyDude »

Klear or Clear coat as most call it is available is 3 finishes, Gloss, Matte or Dull and Semi Gloss. It is sprayed on for best results but it can be brushed if you need to. Dilute it to the same consistency as your regular paint when you air brush it. Kind of like milk, not too slow running off your mix stick but not a fast drip.

Clear coats are forgiving in the sence that they are transparent and as long as it is not too thick of a coat it is pretty hard to mess up. Thin layers sprayed at about 5 to 10 min intervals depending on the temperature of your paint room.
If you need to brush it on you want a bit thicker than your air brush consistency so it doesn't run.

A decent clear coat will make the difference in the quality of your build. Do this after you have weathered your project so you seal in any weather details though.

One word of caution - make sure your sealer is compatible with your paint ie don't use an acrylic sealer on say a water washable, paint can wrinkle under the sealer. Always spray a test patch on a scrap piece of plastic.
Many brands available just search the internet or Humbrol, Tamiya, Testors Model Master etc
Hope that helps.
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Abo
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Re: Johnsons Klear.

Post by Abo »

Cheers mate, thanks for that. I do use both matt and satin varnish from various makes on my projects and dilute them accordingly for my air brush but this is a dedicated FLOOR polish and not usually used for modelmaking so I just wondered if its dealt with differently? I'm trying it purely because I have seen it used in so many modelling mags but they never write down if its diluted when they describe thier builds.

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Re: Johnsons Klear.

Post by caddyshack »

(This is for the pre-mixed bottle clears) Try not to use a too small needle size. some thing around a 0.35 and up for clear. Also try not to dust it on too much as well. or it will tend to go to a milky look. don't get me wrong in thinking flood it with clear. Just test it 1st on a test item. The last thing you need is getting the paint look you like ruined with a milk look finish.
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Re: Johnsons Klear.

Post by Carnage »

Dont trie to cover it all in 1 layer, thats the whole deal when using clear finish. Just apply a couple of layers and let it dry enough between layers. Take your time, dont f up your paintjob.

I use the Vallejo matt varnish. Comes in a spray can. Used the airbrush for the Sherman, but a spraycan is so much easier.
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Re: Johnsons Klear.

Post by Abo »

Thanks fella's you've been a huge help.
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FreakyDude
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Re: Johnsons Klear.

Post by FreakyDude »

Abo
Yes Klear floor finish is good to use as long as you follow the standard steps and test a piece first.
Believe it or not my favorite finish is actually a flooring product similiar to Klear, really makes a difference on scale car finishes. Good luck with your project.
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Re: Johnsons Klear.

Post by STEINER »

Here you go, the full low down on klear. http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Do you realize how much I hate this uniform and all it stands for. ( Cross of Iron )
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