RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Anyone know how to adjust the tension on them?

Thinking it might be part of the problem why it keeps through a track off. The last road wheel before the idle has virtually no resistance to push up, therefore not pushing against the track and maintaining the horns in line as just pops up over them.

The only thing am awear of is theses http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/asia ... -699-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I guess you could pop a few of these in were needed to help out the other wheels.

There is a small grub screw adjustment on the tensioner assembly. Access with the rear plate removed. It increases the tension so the arm has more resistance to the torque of the tracks. I've never thrown a track on mine in over two years?

But I also have replaced the axles with shoulder bolts so my wheels have near zero amount of play. I'll try and find the pictures for the adjustment screw and the axle modification.Saxondog

Stripping the suspension is not for the fant hearted , and doesn't work , i've been there

• Easiest thing to do is twist the swinging arm down against the spring , over 90' , this twists the bars into a firmer setting . - My Tiger is still sitting high after a year on it's tracks with no sag at all , no harm done .

blimp wrote:Stripping the suspension is not for the fant hearted

Yeah I was looking and wondering which screws to remove and what else I need to take off.

blimp wrote:Easiest thing to do is twist the swinging arm down against the spring , over 90' , this twists the bars into a firmer setting . - My Tiger is still sitting high after a year on it's tracks with no sag at all , no harm done .

I give that a go.

I've also got some penny washers so going to try put them in the hollow back of the HL plastic road wheels to add weight to the wheel which should help.

Right I've tried the suspension and adding weights but didn't make much difference the last road wheel still has a tendancy to ride up over the guide horns.

On a closer inspection using the Asiatam supplied axles and HL road wheels isn't a good combination as there is too much play in the wheels. So I need to sort this out like Saxondog has.

I would be willing to assist you with this modification,the Asiatam axles are in my opinion the weak point of the design. Also note that I used automotive wheel weights stacked over the wheels in the space between the upper and lower hull. I also added weight in the Turret and lower hull. My Tiger is heavy @ 20 lbs but it does ride like a tank,with the suspension moving up and down and the tank riding very stable as a good gun platform should. The weights do help,and 8oz. on each side adds weight directly over the tracks where it is needed.

My tank was terribly high riding when first purchased,Asiatam corrected this some what by offering lighter tension bars.

Right I've decided to use the HL road axles, drill out the trailing arms to 4mm and cut them down to length.

Also found the metal idle wheels had a lot of play so drilled them out and put a bearing in each, which has helped. Only thing is a can't figure is to fix them tight close to the hull/tensioner, or loose so the idler can move in and out a few mm to stop the track coming off.

Use Nylon washers as spacer to keep a stable tight fit., When I first used the stock plastic wheels I used bolts with heat-shrink materiel which I then covered in graphite lubricant,very stable and lasted.

What type of drive wheels are you using,I JUST NEVER had a tracking issue with my Asiatam hull,with stock wheels or the Early Model wheels?

Using these metal drive and idle wheels bought from Welsh Dragon Models

http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/spro ... -369-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think i'm getting there now, just a bit more fine tuning with a few washers etc.