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Gearbox’s

Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 12:09 pm
by Tankbear
Can somebody give me some info.

As one of my to do upgrades I’m thinking of changing the gearbox’s to metal versions, but when I look there seems to be quite a few choices.

First up is ratio seen 3:1, 4:1 and others don’t mention it. Take it the smaller the first digit the faster it be but less torque, or is it other way round? As a comparison what ratio are the standard plastic version?

Next some mention double gears, presume this is to make the box stronger, is this really needed? Surely the tracks will slip or the motor stall before destroying metal gears.

Brass or steel, any reason for one been better than other.

Finally, noise. I take a metal box will be noisier than plastic. I’ve read some topics regarding the running in, cutting paste, etc. So is the noise down to not run in correctly?

Re: Gearbox’s

Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 1:05 pm
by brizo58
Hi Tankbear
I always run the gearboxes in :D One at a time for about 10 to 15 mins then clean them out with some thinners :clap: hope this helps...Brian

Re: Gearbox’s

Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 5:22 pm
by tomhugill
What tank are you thinking of replaceing the boxes in? Ive got a fair ammount of experience with various different third party transmission units so im sure I can help you out! :thumbup:

Re: Gearbox’s

Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:32 pm
by Tankbear
tomhugill wrote:What tank are you thinking of replaceing the boxes in? Ive got a fair ammount of experience with various different third party transmission units so im sure I can help you out! :thumbup:
It's a tiger 1.

Re: Gearbox’s

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:26 am
by tomhugill
I dont know how much alteration you would need to mount them but the tamiya boxes are lovely especially with the 3:1 drop outs you can buy, I seem to break them but everyone else seems to think them very hardy so could just be my tank! The impact TUs are also great, louder and a tad less smooth but even I havnt manage to break a set of these yet!

Re: Gearbox’s

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 11:12 am
by Dietrich
Hi Tankbear, :~
Sorry but this reply got a bit long... :{
It is well worth upgrading your tank; The metal reduction gearboxes ,metal tracks and metal drive sprockets are a must do item. They make the whole tank look and drive much better,with good grip on rough surfaces.
To answer your questions the first digit and the second digit are a sign of how the new gearbox has been 'Re-geared' So if the original gearbox is taken as 1-1 the a 3-1 gearbox will be about 1 third as fast BUT there is a real PLUS....... although the tank is now slower there is a huge increase in Torque so that obstacles or inclines that the standard tank could not climb, the reduced gearing now allows it to climb with ease !!! This is not a perfect example...but think of it like your cars gearbox. Try to drive up a steep hill in 5th gear and the car will ( If you stayed in that gear) slow down and stop...but if you change down to third gear although you will not be able to go as fast on the flat you will easily be able to climb the hill. The 3-1 gearbox also make your tank move at a more 'realistic' speed ......as standard the Heng Long tanks are WAY to fast. The 4-1 gearboxes will be even more 'Powerful' but will also be slower.
On the Forum there is a 'Gearbox Calculator' ......this is a link that takes you to a gearbox calculator download .....You can input your motor speed and gearbox reduction into the relevant part of the chart and it automatically tells you the scale speed and the 'Real' speed that your tank will do....
downloadshobbyrelatedsoftware.php

The double gears do look good BUT I cannot see the benefits as compared to the cost they will presumably last a lot longer........... BUT the 'Standard' Heng Long / Asiatam metal gearboxes are just fine, for the use that we will put them to and people have run them for hundreds of hours driving with no problems. It is, as you say recommended to 'Run them in' by using some grinding paste. Running them in will reduce the noise as the gearboxes are very noisy if you just run them straight out of the packet.....They also take much more power to turn as the gears do not mesh properly initially.
Once you have run them in you MUST remove ALL traces of the grinding compound.....and this will mean that you will have to dismantle the gearbox to clean each gear it warm soapy water using an old tooth brush or a naill brush. It is amazing how much compound can 'Hide' in the hollows of the gear casting or in hard to see places. Just split ONE gearbox at a time...take digital photos and use the other gearbox as a reference..just remember that it is a Mirror Image of what you are trying to build. Then Lube the gears with grease, motorcycle chain lube or I use car gearbox oil.....you may want to make up some covers out of clear blisterpack...it keep the lubricant that you choose from being sprayed all over the rest of the inside of the tank.
Brass or steel........I think that here it is a question of cost.....I suspect that the brass gearboxes are more expensive.....but the gears are better made and will require much less running in as you must remember that brass is much softer than steel and you do not want to wear the gears away and so produce a sloppy gearbox.

If you are fairly good at modeling and drilling holes in the thin metal plates that hold the gears in position your could try this modification.......
Hello,
I have read on 'another forum' a very easy and simple way to convert to 3-1 gearboxes,especially if you have replaced your standard plastic gearboxes with metal ones, then you have all the parts that you need. I have recently done this conversion to my 'Good' Tiger 1 and it is absolutely brilliant ! Great speed reduction and loads more torque even on standard motors !!!
Although you have to re-use one of your plastic gears it is at the 'top' of the drive-train and so gets very little actual load applied to it !! If its ok I will attach the link here PLEASE IGNORE THE FIRST 7 POSTS until it gets down to a guy called 'Bubbajoexx' after that it gets REALLY interesting and VERY easy to do !!!!! http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_81420 ... tm#8142064" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Happy Drilling :)
Alb.
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This way you can just buy a 'Standard' Heng Long metal gearbox which are cheap and modify it into a 3-1 reduction gearbox at virtually NO COST....BUT, you MUST be accurate with the driling and the modification or you will just ruin the gearbox.
Sorry again that the reply is so long, but I thought that it was worth it to answer your questions properly :D
Alb.

Re: Gearbox’s

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 11:37 am
by Woz
Dont lube your gearboxes with any kind of petroleum based lubricant as it may make plastic go brittle. Use a silicone or synthetic lubricant.

Re: Gearbox’s

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:01 pm
by Tankbear
Thanks Dietrich, that's helps a lot.

Thanks Woz about the petroleum lube I wouldn't of thought of that.

Re: Gearbox’s

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:31 pm
by Dietrich
Hi Woz, :~
Sorry that I did not make it more apparent in my first reply....The Lubrication that I mentioned only applies to METAL gearboxes !
Alb.

Re: Gearbox’s

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 2:48 pm
by tomhugill
Steel is much stronger than brass fyi