RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Thanks everyone.

Stevie - gun details...
You can use either the Plastic or metal barrel. I used the plastic one for lighter weight. For the plastic one to work in the recoil unit, you have to add a piece of brass tube at the breech end to increase the diameter.
The barrel that holds the charge is a small brass tube only about 1.5" long inserted in the muzzle end of the model barrel.
The charge is a very small amount of BP wrapped in flash paper.
NO PROJECTILES!!!! The barrel will not take any explosive pressure if anything is put in front of the cahrge or if the barrel is too long.
Charge is ignited by hot nichrome wire. It is activated by a switch on a servo that is slaved in the Tx programming to the channel that activates the tamiya recoil action.

Dan, I really think the charge will be hot enough for the ammo we discussed. If you think about it the flash paper may well work as good as aluminum foil? Might have to increase the length of the brass insert. Seeing the charge as depicted in your draft clearly demonstrates to me the elements for the dust to ignite. Your professional graphics seem to bring things into perspective.

The key would be how to load the charge in stages without creating to much resistance, but I'm sure you know more about it than me, I seem to recall a Tiger Gun Test that incinerated the barrel? Excellent system, cheers Blake

Thanks for the info on the firing cannon Danl you makeit look easy I will definetly think on this although getting the black powder could be difficult in the UK I might have to open the Hilti pellets.
Stevie

Stevie,
DON"T use the Hilti cartridges or the powder from them! That powder is made to burn fast and develop high pressure to drive the nail. You want slow burn (large granulation) black powder that will flash and smoke a lot (because it's still burning as it leaves the barrel).
If you cant get BP, can you buy BP substitutes? In the US, the subs are classified as propellants, not explosives, so are much more available. The subs are probably even better to use (they burn cleaner) One brand here is Triple 7, another is Pyrodex.
Again, do not use Hilti powder, smokeless powders, etc. I suggest you read A LOT about powders and small cannons (I did)before you go this route because this stuff can be very very dangerous.
Another approach that is simpler and works almost as good is to use a wad of flash paper. It is usually available in magician shops. It ignites fast and produces a good barrel flash, but not much smoke and very little noise.
Note that my ship guns and tank cannon are "double-switched". It takes two coordinated control settigs on teh transmitter to fire, and the circuit has a manual safety switch. I use only a 2.4Mhz radio because I don't want to risk the glitches or potential channel overide on a standard FM Tx.
Do not do the gun unless you treat it AT ALL TIMES like a real gun!

Thanks for the advice Danl you are probably right with the Hilti catriges anyway the way things are going in Scotland it will probably be ilegal they are trying to outlaw bb's here.
Stevie

moin

are these blast modul buyable? never saw this bevor, realy nice.
but sade that it is only a one shoot system .

cu christian

Great work Danl

Thanks for the kind comments everyone. Much appreciated.

Her's a vid and more pics.

Vid upload really has the movie coming out poorly. I need to figure out what I did wrong.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1cpTqv3QlE


Added the camo net as one of the final details. It's coming off - I don't like it....

The firing cannon looks great Danl
Stevie

Wow that is awesome work DanL! Thanks for posting such detail too, Sir you are an "Engineer and Artist"!