RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I'm close to buying a HL Panther G and wondering if I should spring for the metal tracks, sprocket, and idler upgrade. Other than providing a more authentic appearance, do metal tracks, drive sprockets, and idlers make for a better running tank? From what i have read, it seems the metal tracks, wheels, etc increase the strain on the gearboxes, engines, plastic chassis etc, which leads to broken gearboxes, thrown tracks, and other potential problems? It seems that buying a HL tank with the plastic gearbox is not recommended at all? I appreciate your thoughts and experiences. Best, Andy

I would not want a plastic gearbox for any reason, but for me the metal running gear has better off road traction,am more machine like movement of the tank. My Tiger was built to run and has never failed me yet. My Jagdpanther has metal tracks,sprockets and idlers with idler adjustment,this is the reason for tracks RUNNING CORRECTLY.

Everyone has their own experiences,and modifications. I believe a heavier tank runs better and is more like a machine that a plastic toy. But the other issue is cost, and that will in the end be the deciding factor. hope this helps,if you go metal spend a little extra and get the adjustable idler wheels. Saxondog

Thank you. That is helpful! I hear what you are saying. I will give it some more thought before I pull the trigger. If i go with metal tracks, sprockets, and idler am I forced to get the upgrade arms, springs, and metal wheels?

I have been a member of the board for a couple of years. In my youth, I built a lot of 1/35 scale kits. There is still probably an old post with a few photos of my tanks on it. My motivation to get involved with 1/16 keep returning and the HL Panther has fewer compromises than some of the older HL kits. Is your Tiger a HL? I would like a mid or late production Tiger 1, and will probably build one eventually, but want to get my feet wet with updated electronics, and the HL IR system which is not my strong suit. Again, thank you!

I think my HL Tiger I moves much better with the metal tracks. its smoother and definitely has more traction but I have had a bit of trouble with throwing the tracks as well.

First I changed the tracks with sprockets, then the gearboxes with a metal adapter plate which I couldn't really get aligned at the same time as the idlers. I then installed a track tensioner and fitted in some caged ball bearings into the idlers. It still was not lined up correctly so the right side would jump the track to the outside of the idler. Finally I built new motor mounts to get the alignment correct and to make the larger motors I have clear each other. I should be testing this in night operations in just a bit if not tomorrow after work and out to the battlefield Sunday for maneuvers.

My suggestion is that you might try the 3:1 brass gears and no other metal components if you don't/can't spend the bucks for the full metal upgrades. Then if you have issues then think about all the metal upgrades as a whole. I think adding only some just puts more strain on the components you don't change.

Hi Andy, My Tiger was my first tank, also the most costly to date. I purchased the Asiatam Hull,Asiatam gearboxes,metal sprockets,idlers and tracks from the start,the Hull were not available in the USA at the time so I paid a premium to have one,my lower hull has been modified,the control arms are tapped to 3.5mm and I use Dubro and greatplanes hardware.

The set screws were removed and I tapped the arms,using the shoulder type bolts gave a very stable axle,between the arms and the wheels I used one metal flat washer and a plastic flat washer. The I locked the bolts in place with the grub screw.

My Tiger S13 is very heavy at just over 20lbs. I have used automotive wheel weights with tap backing to add weight over the tracks and in the base and back of my turret. I built this tank to drive and it has been great. I also mounted two fans in. my RX18 unit which is mounted on post and this allows air to circular through the unit.

As with many modifications on this forum use the search option and you will find a wealth of information here on RCTANKWARFARE.

Many people have added to the forum and their is a lot of information,I posted my Asiatam hull build 16 months ago,and then when I changed wheels added some more information. But if you have any questions just ask,someone will always post an answer.

good luck,I have a Jagdpanther with metal tracks,sprockets and idler but have not changed anything else,it runs really good but the tracks helped alot. cheers Saxondog

One more thing both my HENG lONG tanks have plastic wheels, but the Tiger wheels are from an early WSN Tiger,they are rubber lined and spin on a plastic bushing.

Thank you Saxondog and Wizzard 033 for the replies! Very helpful!!!!!

Hi,

Fitting metal tracks to a tank is like putting a tuned engine in a car that is not designed for it - something else is likely to break if you don't do the neccessary upgrades to other affected bits such as idlers, sprockets and gearboxes.

I probably have the ultimate cautionary tale (about cars that is) but it applies just as much to model tanks.

Many years ago I was involved in hill climbs at club motorsport level. I found my MG needed more power off the line so I fitted a supercharger. Fantastic on the road, traffic lights were great fun and if I tried I could get the fuel consumption down to 14mpg. Not bad for a 1300cc engine.
At the local hill climb I gave it the beans from the start line - and pulled the clutch apart.
Fair enough. Gearbox out and fitted a competition clutch. Next time I tried a fast start at the bottom of the hill and it stripped 1st gear.
I didn't need 1st gear on the road because it would pull away in 2nd easily, but it also meant I had lost reverse which was a pain.
Gearbox out (again) and a rebuild using competition straight cut gears. Very noisy, but no more problems.
Next hill climb - 4,000rpm, let the clutch go, there was a clunk from the rear end, the car moved about 4 feet. The reason - I had twisted a half shaft into two bits.
After one hell of a struggle to get the broken bit out of the diff I fitted more substantial shafts. No more problems. It would take off like a scalded cat with impressive clouds of smoke from the rear tyres.

The moral - if you upgrade anything then think carefully about what else is likely to be affected and upgrade that too. If you don't, you are likely to regret it later.

Peter