Custom M3 halftrack

[MarkofZollo]

I wanted some support vehicles for my tanks and infantry, for the US I wanted an M3 halftrack in 1/18 but found they were like £40+. I found the M16 MGMC on ebay for about £15 so thought I could alter it to the M3 and save money
M16 as i got it;

Commence alterations!

[MarkofZollo]

After removing the tray that the quad mount sits on (much harder than it looked ) I made most of the turret structure from plasticard and replaced the seats.



The .50 cal came from a BBI paratrooper, chopped up the tripod to make a mount (my cutting and modeling skills have much to be desired lol )



The gun can traverse horizontaly and verticaly, and can be removed from mount, also ammo box and belt can be removed from gun and mount.
More to come!

[MarkofZollo]

Painted it up on the obligatory Olive Drab



Tried to stock it up like the real thing



Realised how far the origional paint on this is from Tamiya's OD green, I was wondering about painting it up and weathering so will definately do that now!
Dave

[MarkofZollo]

Currently trying out some matt varnish spray to lock in pigments and paint on the M3, thought first Id show some pics of what I did with the quad mount;



Got some wheels and axles on the net and made trailer from plasticard to fit M3.
Since painted up to OD, gona weather when I figure a sealing technique.
Cheers

[Saxondog]

You have done a fine job, would the Floor polish and varnish technique not work for this project? Just curious where did you buy the M3 Halftrack?

cjeers

[MarkofZollo]

Hi Sax, sorry im a little unclear on that technique, still have a lot to learn! I have been looking into ways to seal in pigments as I have been using them a lot to (try to) finish weathering. I got the idea of matt varnish sprays on here but what I bought seems a bit thick and the pigments fade off rather than stay as they were before. Can you point me in the right direction?
Anyway the M16 as it was came from a seller called 'cuertobanco', his prices have since gone up, I paid $9.99 for mine (minus p&p). He hasnt anything up now I dont think. Check out a seller called robertr74, a good friend of mine in US, he has tons of 1/18 stuff if you want anything.
Cheers, Dave

[Saxondog]

Yes Dave, The original paint and weathering board was a single post where a very accomplished modeler instructed me and STEINER in the technique. First step after you paint the base color to seal it with Johnson clear floor polish,this is the same product sold at most grocery store. After you have sealed with the floor polish you can add you coloring,pigments,weathering. Then the Floor Matte Varnish,un-cut sprayed in thin coats. The key is allowing the varnish to completely dry 24-48 hrs.

That is the short version, now I need to tell you some photos in the original post have been lost. The best way to learn this technique is review the link, then we can discuss different sections as you develop questions. This was the most viewed post on the forum and because of the benefit it was developed into a sub-board under tips and tricks. Three Tigers were done at once in three different pain schemes,two of which were voted into Masterclass. here is the link and I will help you any way I can. http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/v ... 151&t=2429" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Saxondog]

http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/v ... 997#p31997" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; This is the Varnish, it can be purchased at Darby's in the UK. Small 250ml can will do several tanks, and will last if either the cans lid is clean and resealed. Or as I found, pore into a small glass jar, with a lid that has a seal ring. If you use the jar the varnish will not dry out on top creating a thin film that clogs the airbrush.

Darby's will ship this product very reasonably, and I have purchased two cans in 2-years from them. Fast shipping. The floor polish is Johnson's clear,or future floor polish(same product US/UK Names).

I am not the best to instruct you in this technique, I have painted three tanks. two of them I stripped completely down to bare plastic and repainted. This is also part of the technique OZ(Tony) describes and actually strips his Tiger. This was shocking as his Tiger was already finished and one of the Masterclass Tanks. When he finished,a different pattern this time and yes it was voted into masterclass again. Also Steiner(Bran's) Tiger was voted into Masterclass.

Check out the thread,and If I can help I'm here,cheers

[MarkofZollo]

Very interesting thread there! So I have done all the painting and weathering with paint, all highlights and lowlights with enamels and a little acrylic here and there. I have just started doing dusty and muddy effects with pigments, so once these are on should I use the floor polish then matt varnish, or can I go straight to varnish?
I bought some Humbrol enamel matt varnish in a spray can, it comes out quite thick and fixes the pigments ok but where the pigments were quite light it seems to have removed them, and where there was a build up of pigment they have changed to a medium brown colour rather than the light yellow/brown they were.
I dont have an airbrush at the moment (will do for Christmas hopefully) so should I brush on the Ronseal stuff or are there any other products I can use?
I did post a topic on this question but didnt get many replies other than about Mig pigment fixer, but that is £7 for a 15ml jar!!
Yeah sorry to blab on lol, thanks for your help though!!
Dave

[Saxondog]

Dave, your reply is fine. I tend to be long in my answers so I certainly cannot say that about others. OK,two things.The floor polish seals the colors.it also creates a shiney finish. I freaked out the first time,thinking I had ruined my Tiger.I stripped it,Tony(OZ) SAVED THE DAY. He stripped his tank and started over, through the entire process I used pastels only to color my Tank after the base coat of Testors Model Master enamel SCHWARZENGRUA 39-43. Chalk pastel dust rubbed into hull lines and other peices,each time adding coats of floor polish.

The shinny finish had me worried but OZ said just wait,the varnish will fix this. He was right every coat of varnish was allowed to dry 48hrs. it worked.

Now in your situation I am not accomplished enough to advise you,but I would suggest you PM OZ(Tony) he's a nice guy and certainly can advise you far better than me. I will also PM him and we can resolve this as a team. If your in agreement I will help in this manner or any other action you suggest? But the chemical reaction if the varnish and dullcoat are both used is bad,do not try this. Blake