RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi all,

I am a newbie and have a problem with my Bulldog and I am looking for some advice: The front-most road wheel on one side of my tank, which the metal track wraps around (that is un-sprung) has broken

More specifically, where the coarse-threaded self-tapping screw/bushing lives, on the inside of the wheel, the housing has broken (see attached).

Is this easily repairable (I have good epoxy), or, if I buy a new wheel, how does one gain access to the head of the self-tapper to attach it? I have thought of swapping it out with another wheel, from the middle, but they look very strongly and precisely glued together from the factory!

In advance, any advice would be gratefully received!

Jamieboy

I sold my Walker but it looks like they screwed the inner part of the wheel on then glued the outer part to it there is two ways round this try seperating the wheel and doing it like this or drilling a hole in the centre to git a screw driver in to tighten it and then fill the hole in good luck.
Stevie

tankmad wrote:I sold my Walker but it looks like they screwed the inner part of the wheel on then glued the outer part to it there is two ways round this try seperating the wheel and doing it like this or drilling a hole in the centre to git a screw driver in to tighten it and then fill the hole in good luck.
Stevie

Hi Stevie,

Thanks for the reply, I have contacted the vendor and they are going to send me a free replacement. In the mean time, I have separated the two halves of the wheel and can confirm that they are glued, as you say.

I think the "hub" part is molded with the outer wheel half and is a very tight and glued fit in to, and against, the inner half (which carries the self-tapping screw with bush at the top of its shank).

It was not possible to separate the wheel neatly in two - the outer half, with the hub part, is essentially a one-time deal when fitted & glued. I will try to carefully punch it out later, or, failing that, bore a hole in it so that I may pass a screw driver through and tighten it, as you have suggested!

I am intrigued as to how the replacement part will be supplied! A snap-together fit would have maybe been a better option!

Jamieboy

I havent recieved my Bulldog yet(hopefully in a day or so) but does that wheel screw directly to an axle on the hull? I ask because if this is a common issue I may turn an aluminum axle that bolts to the hull and turn down the inside of the wheel for bearings. If i do end up that route it may be an alternative for some folks.

Detroit Diesel Man wrote:I havent recieved my Bulldog yet(hopefully in a day or so) but does that wheel screw directly to an axle on the hull? I ask because if this is a common issue I may turn an aluminum axle that bolts to the hull and turn down the inside of the wheel for bearings. If i do end up that route it may be an alternative for some folks.

Yes, the wheel screws directly to a stub on the hull (looks like it could be a majorly weak spot!). I'd be really interested in your re-engineered solution!

Not received my replacement wheel yet, but I have worked on the damaged part and found a possible work-around:

I've taken the nylon shim from an M12 "Nylok" nut and found that this is a pretty good fit over the top flange where my wheel is damaged. I've epoxied the part back in place, used a rubber wedge to hold it in tight and then used some more glue to hold the nylon shim in place. The whole thing is not being left severely alone overnight to cure. I also have found that a gland nut fits over the lower, flared, part of the damaged section and will consider fitting this as well. There is loads of room on the inside of the rim, so it can afford to be fixed in overkill. Ideally, if I was going to consider this a permanent solution, I'd swap this wheel out for one midway back the tracks as it wont receive nearly as much punishment there as it will/would up front.

I have also powered the tank up for the 1st time and have the flashing lights of Tx/Rx ill-communication and busted smoke pipe fitting! I'll be checking out the internal connections as per the thread which addresses this and consider a new, tested, pair of crystals if that fails!

Jamieboy

Hi jamie

i made my idlers from brass and they are also adjustable

fv432 wrote:Hi jamie
heres a link to my Bulldog <a href="http://www.hobbyhavoc.com/forum/index.php?topic=725.100" class="smarterwiki-linkify">http://www.hobbyhavoc.com/forum/index.p ... 725.100</a>

i made my idlers from brass and you can see in the pics they are also adjustable

hope the thread helps you a bit?

Very impressive! I think I'd be a little hesitant to get the Dremel to it so soon I'm still awaiting the replacement wheel, but the repair of the original is looking pretty good!

Jamieboy

Yesterday, I received my replacement road wheel. The vendor had split this expertly and, had it not been for the few traces of glue, I would have thought this was a new part. I attached the inner half with securing-screw/bush to the tank and have epoxied the outer half to it, clamping it in place (and ensuring that the halves are parallel!). It's been curing for the best part of a day, so it should be ready now!

As envisaged, the "hub" part is moulded with the outer wheel half but the flared section which engages with the inner-half is not glued; only the mating faces of the rims themselves.

I have kept the broken/repaired original as a spare and I think it would have done the job had I not got a replacement - I'll post a photo of it when the epoxy has cured on that one!


Jamieboy

Thats a result I think in the factory they use the same type of glue that plummers use to glue waste pipes together it is thick you brush it on and it dries quite quick I use it sometimes.
Stevie