RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi im going to try and get an airbrush but i dont know what paint i can use with one?

Check out the painting and weathering section. The Tamiya Paints will work fine, the main thing about different paints would be how they are thinned.

Most guys use screen wash to thin the Tamiya paints, one bottle of paint to an equal amount of screen wash.

But the Painting and weathering section has several how-to videos so view them and if you need help just PM me. cheers Saxondog

Saxondog wrote:Check out the painting and weathering section. The Tamiya Paints will work fine, the main thing about different paints would be how they are thinned.

Most guys use screen wash to thin the Tamiya paints, one bottle of paint to an equal amount of screen wash.

But the Painting and weathering section has several how-to videos so view them and if you need help just PM me. cheers Saxondog

Oh i just realised i could click on the sub-forum, i tried going on their before but have now just clicked on it lol.

Hi,
The Tam paints are quick drying and a doddle to spray when thinned as Saxondog suggests, but may I add the following comments:

Add a tiny bit of white to your paint. This will give a more realistic scale/distance effect.

Always mix more than you will need and save the surplus for touching up.

Use several thin coats rather than a couple of thick ones or you will probably end up with runs or curtains. Using an airbrush is not like using the over thick stuff from aerosols. Thin coats also preserve the detail better.

Keep the airbrush moving at all times

Read as much as you can find on airbrushing and try to sort out what techniques are applicable to the job you are about to do

Mask up everything. Paint can travel much further than you expect.

Practise on scrap bits first to familiarise yourself with the controls on the brush and compressor and the effect they have.

Keep your airbrush very clean. I always spray some neat Tam thinners through mine then I strip it and clean it after each use, being very careful not to damage the needle, jet or O-ring seals. Most airbrush problems are caused by either damage or poor cleaning.

Spray edges, projections etc first and allow to dry for a few minutes before doing the rest of the job. If you don't do this you will end up with thinner paint on edges and "shadows" from projections.

If you happen to see any airbrush work, try to look at it from the point of view of the guy who did it - how it was done, where masks were used, how colour graduation was done etc

Don't forget that a good airbrush job starts even before the first coat of primer is applied

Keep your model free of dust, fingerprints, oil or grease. OK, you are spraying a tank and the surface should not be perfect, but paint can magnify greasy fingerprints etc rather than hide them.

Finally, don't EVER put one type of paint on top of a different type. Sometimes you can get away with it but you do risk lifting the base coat if there is a reaction. There are methods of doing this safely, but as a newbie to airbrushing it is better you don't know about them - yet.

Good luck with it. Airbrushing is FUN! I learned mine from a guy who did custom work on show cars and to watch him work and a picture appear was fascinating.

Peter


You will probably find that you will develop your own techniques eventually.

BigPanzer wrote:Hi,
The Tam paints are quick drying and a doddle to spray when thinned as Saxondog suggests, but may I add the following comments:

Add a tiny bit of white to your paint. This will give a more realistic scale/distance effect.

Always mix more than you will need and save the surplus for touching up.

Use several thin coats rather than a couple of thick ones or you will probably end up with runs or curtains. Using an airbrush is not like using the over thick stuff from aerosols. Thin coats also preserve the detail better.

Keep the airbrush moving at all times

Read as much as you can find on airbrushing and try to sort out what techniques are applicable to the job you are about to do

Mask up everything. Paint can travel much further than you expect.

Practise on scrap bits first to familiarise yourself with the controls on the brush and compressor and the effect they have.

Keep your airbrush very clean. I always spray some neat Tam thinners through mine then I strip it and clean it after each use, being very careful not to damage the needle, jet or O-ring seals. Most airbrush problems are caused by either damage or poor cleaning.

Spray edges, projections etc first and allow to dry for a few minutes before doing the rest of the job. If you don't do this you will end up with thinner paint on edges and "shadows" from projections.

If you happen to see any airbrush work, try to look at it from the point of view of the guy who did it - how it was done, where masks were used, how colour graduation was done etc

Don't forget that a good airbrush job starts even before the first coat of primer is applied

Keep your model free of dust, fingerprints, oil or grease. OK, you are spraying a tank and the surface should not be perfect, but paint can magnify greasy fingerprints etc rather than hide them.

Finally, don't EVER put one type of paint on top of a different type. Sometimes you can get away with it but you do risk lifting the base coat if there is a reaction. There are methods of doing this safely, but as a newbie to airbrushing it is better you don't know about them - yet.

Good luck with it. Airbrushing is FUN! I learned mine from a guy who did custom work on show cars and to watch him work and a picture appear was fascinating.

Peter


You will probably find that you will develop your own techniques eventually.

Thanks for the reply, just wondering... will these tamiya 10ml pots have enough paint in for using with an air brush?
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.p ... t-id=81776" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

oh and does anyone know what screenwash brand is best or most used for paint thinning?

im currently reading up on this tamiya pershing build http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95040 ... ey_/tm.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hi,

Should be plenty, but always buy an extra jar or two anyway. You will find you use quite a lot of various greens. That way you won't run out 5 mins after your local model shop closes on a Saturday afternoon on a bank holiday weekend.


If you are going to build a Tam pershing, watch out - they are a first class model, but you have to be very tidy with your wiring because there isn't much room in there. This makes getting the battery pack in and out a frustrating job so I it might be an idea to think about putting a charging socket on it somewhere. They are easy enough to build otherwise, and very reliable.

Cheers

Peter

Victor, I am glad you found the sub board. Many people contributed to that section. Their are videos of all aspects of airbrushing. Many more on the acrylic paint than their are on Enamels. I use Enamel paints building ships for 20 years or more and when I started building tanks the cost of changing and the learning curve were more of a burden than I could accept.

But some one new to airbrushing and painting should use the Tamiya Acrylics as they are easier to use and far cheaper in the long run. here is the link to the sub-board, their are four key videos you should watch.

http://rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/viewforum.php?f=151" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; cheers Blake