RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

anyone have any ideas on how to fix the warped kv-1 upper hulls i seem to have been stuck with?

i have tried heating one up to re set it-this went horribly wrong,i have also tried cutting a reenforcement sheet out of alu covering the entire underside-this was about 50% sucsessful it sort of worked as it removed some of the warping but was to thin to pull it flat(if its to thick it interferes with the turret ring/motor
now in just trying a bit of alu angle left over from another idea,i could probably get away with something thinner but this only works at the front,i have a few other ideas but lack the tools or enginering skills to do them

anyone else have any ideas?

ps is it ok to epoxy aluminium to plastic?

havent got a kv1 but i can answer the last question ,yes its ok to epoxy aluminium to plastic
regards, ice

someone told me that alu has to be etched-i thoght that was just for painting

MIght help to rough up both surfaces with a file or some coarse emery cloth to give the epoxy something to grip

thanks ,just need to figure out how to engineer a fix for this now

hows this idea?...

http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/tank ... -817-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

2 of these front and rear of the upper hull?

i tried using duct tape to pull the rear screw towers together and it seems to work,maybe pulling the sides together is a better bet than trying to flatten out the upper deck little help here people

just a thought (and you probably tried this already), but what does it look like once you have the lower hull screwed on?

thats probably most of the issue as my current kv project involes an asiatam hull so none of the hull posts are screwed to anything

just bought one of those support rods ill see how that works out

Heat from the sun,gradual tension pulling the side in.Once hull top flattens out install truces to stabilize the hull shape,still leave in the sun a bit longer. After the hull is flat and supported by the truces.Bring indoors and allow to cool slowly.Best done on a concrete surface with a thin layer card board.
The hull needs to be upside down,use threaded rods to pull the sides in slowly,this might require drilling holes but the Truces should install at these points so the holes can be use to secure the truces or covered with filler.I understand you may not have the right equipment.
But the parts I describe are basic hobby shop supplies.The can be made from Evergreen plastic I=BEAM SECTIONS or Channel. Once the hull has flattened out the Evergreen section can be secured with the same threaded rods while the epoxy dries.This may seem like alot of work but it is how I fixed my 1/6 scale Tiger,it was in a steel storage building the tank is steel but the top of the hull has ABS sheet covering and this sheet has many details attached to it well some how boxes were staked on my tank,the center sagged in the heat and the weight.
I tried forcing the truces and that was no go.Placed the hull on concrete with thin card board between the hull and concrete.I used steel weights from my sons exercise set,as the hull heated up the weight flattened the hull against the flat cardboard and concrete.I installed trucing(i used wood)and it stayed in shape,I allowed it to cool slowly outside under the rear porch.
The heat in the cotton belt of the south is higher than the UK but since you are dealing with a smaller scale perhaps less heat,it was the combination of weight and heat and tightening the rods very slowly so not to crack the plastic.I know my situation is different,but it is a sound principle of applied pressure. Good luck,Sax P.S.Heat index in the Memphis area today 101,the temp 91.Humidity plays hell on us in this region.

one hell of an answer

in the uk its currently raining