RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I am making my first forays into fiddling with some RC tanks. I have two 7.0 Heng Long tanks (a Sherman and the Tiger 1) and have recently acquired a used Panzer III that has an older Heng Long board. The Panzer III has been extensively upgraded by the previous owner with a metal lower hull, wheels tracks etc and is in many ways much nicer than the newer ones.

The IR function on the 7.0 models provided a lot of entertainment at a recent family BBQ and I'd really like to get IR installed on the Panzer III but I don't know how to identify the board, if the older board's IR would be compatible with the 7.0s or not or where to start so any help would be greatly appreciated! I am not averse to switching out the whole board if necessary, but am not sure if I'd need to change the connectors and motors etc.

Pics of the board and transmitter below:

I think that's an old 5.3 board. It uses Heng Longs IR protocol to shoot so it won't work with your 7.0 based tanks. You can rewire the tank for the newer boards, but it will require either soldering or a nice crimping tool as the daughter boards from the RX-18/5.3 era are now not used on the 6.0 an higher boards. The connections for the new boards are quite different.

You can do it! A little soldering and some new connectors.
More importantly, what's up with the track links zip-tied in the hull?!

Mike.

Hello, crysos! I agree with ColemanCollector: you can do it, and since you will need to do so for IR compatibility, you will get much better control, too. A few years ago, on tips from RCTW members, I bought a Hakko soldering outfit and later a special crimping tool for the connectors to the motors. If an elderly professor can do it, anybody can do it.

Good spot to keep spare metal track for when you need it!
And its helps ballast the thing on the move !!

HERMAN BIX wrote: ↑Fri Aug 22, 2025 8:18 am Good spot to keep spare metal track for when you need it!
And its helps ballast the thing on the move !!

ColemanCollector wrote: ↑Thu Aug 21, 2025 10:55 pm You can do it! A little soldering and some new connectors.
More importantly, what's up with the track links zip-tied in the hull?!

Mike.

Yep. The old owner had put them in for ballast. Apparently it's a bit jumpy without it.

tankme wrote: ↑Thu Aug 21, 2025 10:01 pm I think that's an old 5.3 board. It uses Heng Longs IR protocol to shoot so it won't work with your 7.0 based tanks. You can rewire the tank for the newer boards, but it will require either soldering or a nice crimping tool as the daughter boards from the RX-18/5.3 era are now not used on the 6.0 an higher boards. The connections for the new boards are quite different.

OK sounds like it's time to get the soldering iron out. I guess that I could just but a kit like this: https://tinyurl.com/5ckner9s and then I'll have all the connectors I need. Sounds like a good project for the winter. Thanks for the help everyone.

tankme wrote: ↑Thu Aug 21, 2025 10:01 pm I think that's an old 5.3 board. It uses Heng Longs IR protocol to shoot so it won't work with your 7.0 based tanks. You can rewire the tank for the newer boards, but it will require either soldering or a nice crimping tool as the daughter boards from the RX-18/5.3 era are now not used on the 6.0 an higher boards. The connections for the new boards are quite different.

OK sounds like it's time to get the soldering iron out. I guess that I could just but a kit like this: https://tinyurl.com/5ckner9s and then I'll have all the connectors I need. Sounds like a good project for the winter. Thanks for the help everyone.
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That's a decent option from what people have said. For ballast, I usually will pour a two part epoxy resin in the hull, but you have to make sure EVERY hole is blocked before pouring any resin. Ask me how I know...

For ballast, go to a local tyre/tire shop & ask for stick on wheel weights.
They come in strips and can be cut N stuck according to your requirements.
Keeping the spare track for, spare track, purposes