RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Howdy everyone,
I just got into the hobby a couple of days ago with a Henglong T90 and am making a couple of modifications to make the tank more accessible. Whilst scrolling through YouTube, I came across this channel that discusses using magnets to hold the tank shell together, making it easy to peel off in case modifications are needed on the go. I was thinking, why not go further and use pogo pins for the wiring?

I know it is common practice to chop off the battery box, but instead, it can be used as a base for the pogo pins (magnetic ones are preferred, but not necessary), with the other half mounted on the top half of the hull. It will just snap into place as the base and the top snap together.

I am well aware of the current rating required for the turret motor and the PWM signals for the various servos and lights.
Pogo Pins are suitable for high-frequency applications, have used them in my job. The current rating tops out at 3A. Maybe a different quick disconnect connector can be used for the motor?

Please give me your thoughts on this!!
Thank You!!

Stay Awesome!!

I wonder if I am the only one here who (being from the time when one's older sister could jump on a Pogo Stick, and Pogo was a character in a comic strip) has no idea what a Pogo Pin is. I gather is is some kind of electronic release fastener. I will have to look it up on Dr. Google. I am interested to see how this develops.

I suspect lining up the magnets and then pins will be tedious! All of the HL connectors are Lipo balance cables so I just put longer ones in for the upper hull.

And to save Google some milliwatts
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pogo_pin

Most of my Tanks hulls are held to the body by 10 x 5mm Countersunk neodymion magnets mounting them fore and aft on the (trimmed to fit) internal posts one too each post (4) I find that after lining up the body to the hull there is an almost automatic first time fit.
www.first4magnets.com

I use N52 magnets to hold the upper hull on most of my tanks, but I've never tried to create a cable interface between the upper and lower.

RobW wrote: ↑Wed May 21, 2025 12:53 pm I suspect lining up the magnets and then pins will be tedious! All of the HL connectors are Lipo balance cables so I just put longer ones in for the upper hull.

And to save Google some milliwatts
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pogo_pin

I was considering the pogo pins lined up on a magnetic connector. This would get rid of the need to align the pins manually Everytime the hull is opened.

Something like this: https://a.co/d/a5Y1vSh

magnumwarrior001 wrote: ↑Thu May 22, 2025 1:27 am

RobW wrote: ↑Wed May 21, 2025 12:53 pm I suspect lining up the magnets and then pins will be tedious! All of the HL connectors are Lipo balance cables so I just put longer ones in for the upper hull.

And to save Google some milliwatts
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pogo_pin

I was considering the pogo pins lined up on a magnetic connector. This would get rid of the need to align the pins manually Everytime the hull is opened.

Something like this: https://a.co/d/a5Y1vSh

This could be a really neat idea, depending on the size of the connectors and how many you need.

Definitely going to save this for later to try out some time.

I’m going to see how the idea develops but I like the theory