RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Found this on an old Panzer IV post from TANKIE

1 Cut off moulded springs & fit wire wound springs on mudguards
2 Improve turret MG (drill out and fit old plastic MG)
3 Rust exhaust
4 fit scale working headlights
5 Fit flashing main MG
6 make brass authentic track holder
7 make and fit wire turret handles
8 re position aerial
9 open up gearbox hatch cooling ducts
10 remove mantle LED & fill
11 remove moulding marks
12 Fit metal stiffener inside body
13 Make covers, run in gearbox & grease
14 fit metal drive and idler + track
15 Fit Polyfuses in line with motors

Does anyone have any visuals on what these changes look like

or before /after pix

Thx

Thinking a P4 is going to be my next tank purchase.

DON' T TELL MY WIFE

Trick is with a PzIV is which version

The H/L F2/G is a horridly inaccurate thing that takes a lot to get it half good.
Taigen ones are better, but still a lot lacking.
Suspension on either are awful.

Then the actual specifics of a single tank come up

I'd go a T34 if I were you, so much more fun to build and get looking hardcore, plus great runners.

If you are determined to take on a Panzer 4 the very first thing you should do is buy a Taigen Turret, It is as accurate as I have seen anywhere,
It has a fault and that is because the turret is metal and the pre PZ 4 AusF H cupola is fixed it makes an "H" or "J" harder,
Any PZ4 apart from Tamiyas is a seductive item, It looks easy to modify and some things such as dropping the rear roller 3mm or fitting hinges to the front fender are a doddle but trying to make the rear fenders work is a nightmare, and put it off as much as you like if you do not sort out the incorrect elevation of the area behind the turret then you are just pretending,
My biggest warning is "Metal" HULLS!, I have tried them all and none of them are without fault and some are just rubbish. I avoid them and work on the ABS Hull.

Thx for your input. I'm re-thinking my next purchase.

HL should hire some of members of this board as consultants.

My advice would be don’t bother and print inkors design. His works are the best I have seen and printed in a while. I print them in abs like resin and they are plenty tough enough with exception to the naturally fragile parts. In which case you print spares for clubs and shows

I'm with Mr. Bix on the T-34 suggestion. Even more so if you don't mind paying the premium for the Taigen. They did a fantastic job on it.

I also agree with Mr. Bix and Panzermech. The T34/85 is a solid tank. I have a Heng Long and she's a solid runner, also probably the best stock paint job out of the box. I do not however have a Panzer IV so can't share anything bout that one.