1/16 RC M-113A1 ACAV - Converting the Takom/Andy's HHQ kit to RC

[lmcq11]

Merry Christmas everyone,

It's time for a new build. This build will be my fifth M113 based RC vehicle. Previous builds were based on Ludwig basic kits, some with Verlinden details, Tank Modellbau components and were all quite heavy and complex. This new build will be a light and much simpler conversion of the latest Takom static kit presented by Andy's HHQ. This will be a low cost conversion and will use most of the components from the kit.

It will have the following features;
- Full crew compartment interior detail of the Takom kit
- Servo operated rear ramp
- Metal torsion bar suspension
- HL TK 7.1 control board
- Tamiya gearbox
- Takom Plastic tracks and roadwheels
- Browning M2 with flash and sound
- Headlights, tail lights and interior lights
- Vietnam war markings
- Figures, as they become available

More than 80,000 M113 were produced, many still in operation today.

1/16 RC M-113A1 ACAV - Converting the Takom/Andy's HHQ kit to RC

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The Takom kit has the frontal floaters on the trim vane and sides as shown below.

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The Vietnam war M113 had colourful markings applied by the crews, making the model more interesting than in later periods.

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The Takom presented by Andy's HHQ was just released. I expect more variants to come out.

1/16 RC M-113A1 ACAV - Converting the Takom/Andy's HHQ kit to RC

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The model comes in a big box, with a lot of parts for the cost. I will not do an unboxing because Andy has already covered it all on his video.

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The model features a full interior of the crew compartment, but does not include interior of engine compartment on the front right. I plan to convert the model to RC while keeping all the interior details. It would be too sad to discard any of it. The whole thing will be a showcase.

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The intructions have a complete interior painting guide, supported by finely printed decals. It will be a real beauty.

I can imagine some of these tiny decals will be a challenge to install.

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Continuing on following post

[lmcq11]

Check out the markings on the comm box... just wow. Applying them will be a story on its own.

1/16 RC M-113A1 ACAV - Converting the Takom/Andy's HHQ kit to RC

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The kit provides many official markings for Vietnam and later, these are just some of them.

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However, i was hoping that the decal sheet would provide many examples of colourful graffitis painted by the crews in Vietnam, but none are provided.

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The M60 seems to be a bit bulky.

1/16 RC M-113A1 ACAV - Converting the Takom/Andy's HHQ kit to RC

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Ahh, finally a Browning M2 with a flash suppressor on the barrel.

1/16 RC M-113A1 ACAV - Converting the Takom/Andy's HHQ kit to RC

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The molded on wiring on the armor sides will be complicated to paint. I would have preferred that Takom provides separate black rubber wires with instructions instead.

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Great, the tie-downs are provided.

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The kit comes with a nice figure, a bit too dressed up for Vietnam for my liking but its good. A driver would have been nice too but can't ask too for too much for the price.

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In preparation for a proof of concept for the RC conversion, some of the kit parts are prepared for analysis and conversion.

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Continuing on following post

[lmcq11]

First thing to analyse are the T130 tracks provided with the kit. This is the first time that we get Vietnam era M113 tracks. They are individually molded in two plastic parts. However, the molded on connector pin is only effective in the middle section. It is obviously a weakness not to have a pin that goes all the way through but i think it will be ok.

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If the tracks have failures, i will have to drill the tracks and add pins on the sides, at a great mental and time consuming experience i am sure. As this will be a light vehicle, has no turret or complex features, i think the tracks will perform well as they are without any upgrade. After all, the M113 is just to drive around...

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They are quite flexible and light. They will go easy on the drive train and gearbox.

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The plastic sprocket is ok for driving around. The Takom T130 tracks do not fit the Tank Modellbau M113 metal sprocket. I already tried.

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Some will be shocked but i plan to use a light tamiya twin gearbox, model 70097, that can be purchased for less than $10 online. The Takom M113 is quite light, i do not see the need for a larger gearbox but i will replace the type 130 motors by more powerful type 180. Besides, it is the only one that will fit this kit.

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The shafts need to be positioned in the B mode.

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The small tamiya gearbox fits perfectly inside the engine area of the model on the front right.

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continuing on following post

[lmcq11]

The small type 130 motors have been replaced by the more powerful 6V type 180 purchased for a few dollars on eBay. The casing is longer but the diameter is the same and will fit inside the slot on the gearbox designed for the 130 type

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Each motor is given three type 104 capacitors, ensuring the motors are responsive with the control board. Capacitors can be purchased on Amazon, there are deals for 1000 pieces for a few dollars... One capacitor is soldered between the + terminal and the metal casing, the - terminal and the casing, and one between the + and the - terminals.

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This is the finalized 1/16 RC M-113 powerpack... The gearbox was connected to an HL TK 7.1 control board. I have tested the integration for 15 minutes, applying pressures against the shafts, run then both at various speeds with a final 3 minutes run at full speed. The motors are also extremely responsive at low speed and quite powerful. The motors were not even warm. This is going to work.

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It would be difficult to put a ball bearing inside the roadwheel. Not sure it is worth the trouble.

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The Takom M113 roadwheel on the right next to a 3D printed Ludwig M113 roadwheel on the left.

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Notice the difference in shape and size.

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A Takom plastic suspension arm next to a Tank Modellbau metal suspension arm. Notice the difference in shape. As such, using the metal suspension arm on Takom roadwheels would not work.

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The Takom suspension mount points next to the Tank Modellbal metal one. As such, the plastic one will be used but will require a larger hole to fit the larger metal tubes instead of the plastic torsion bar.

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Takom provides an operable plastic torsion bar for the suspension. It is correct for a static model but the mounting of the tip is weak so i suspect most static builders will decide to glue the suspension arm anyway. With some very good care by the builder, it might be possible to keep the plastic torsion bars on a table top RC conversion. It would require a spring added inside the dampers under the gearbox and electronics. As for this build, i have decided to replace them with a metal torsion bar.

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Creating a prototype of the suspension. I am removing the whole plastic torsion bar and its attachment to the suspension arm.

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Continuing on following post.

[lmcq11]

A set of 1.5mm thick metal push rods purchased on eBay make excellent metal torsion bars. Vendors usually sell set of 10 of them for less than $10.

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A new mount for the suspension arm is created in brass tube, with the puch rod in the middle, and a bracket at the tip that will run along the suspension arm.

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The prototype suspension arm is prepared to accept the new mount. This is the larger reinforced suspension arm on the first and last roadwheel that have a damper mount.

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Epoxy glue is used to solidly attach the mount and torsion bar to the suspension arm. A larger brass tube that tightly fits around the suspension arm mount is also created. It is critical that the tube is positioned absolutely strait with the suspension arm in order to have a strait roadwheel... That is a risk if the hole was not drilled correctly. Once the epoxy is dry, there is no way back.

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The larger tube is installed on the chassis, creating a tight and solid integration.

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The suspension arm and torsion bar are inserted. The proper angle of the suspension arm is calculated and the torsion bar at the other tip is twisted and installed on the bottom of the hull, with a spacer for height and solidity. Its easier said than done so this is the important step. Adjustments can be made by twisting the torsion bar one way or the other. The attachment at the bottom of the hull needs to be low enough for the crew compartment floor to sit on top. There is very limited space. Torsion blades would not fit.

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The Takom dampers are functional and can actually be used with a small spring from a pen. But i did not find it necessary to put a spring inside at this time. Guys that will decide to keep the plastic torsion bars on their RC conversion might want to add a section of pen spring inside to help the torsion bar support the gearbox at the front, and help keep the first and last roadwheels down when operating the tracks.

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The completed suspension prototype. It is working well. This model will have metal torsion bar suspension for less than $10 and a couple of hours of work. Interestingly, the Takom kit provides 2 spare center suspension arms that can be used for training and experimentations.

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continuing on following post

[lmcq11]

The road wheel fits tightly and is strait. This is going to work.

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To ensure everything will fit inside the engine compartment, i have assembled the key parts and temporarity deposited it in place.

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Checking out the sprocket gearbox cover. When installed on a small base above the suspension torsion bars, the gearbox is at the perfect height and position.

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View of the gearbox deposited at the bottom of the engine compartment. Everything fits.

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The TK 7.1 control board and battery will fit correctly on a small platform above the gearbox.

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Although it seems the speaker can also fit at the front, the whole area will be full of cables. The speaker will be disassembled from its protective box and reinstalled inside the fuel tank at the rear of the vehicle.

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Looks like a metal drive shaft for a WPL truck can be used for the connection between the sprocket and the gearbox, allowing a level of flexibility. It sits correctly inside the sprocket cover. Metal drive shalf for WPL can be purchased on eBay for a few dollars. Ensure it has the 3mm inner shaft hole diameter for the Tamiya gearbox. There is a version of this coupler with 4mm inner holes that would not fit the Tamiya gearbox.

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The 3mm inner shaft hole is a perfect fit with the Tamiya gearbox shaft. The gearbox shafts will need to be cut at the proper length.

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Ok, that's it for now. Looks like this could work.

Next step is therefore to officially start the conversion with the suspension. These need to be installed before the gearbox that sits on top. After that, everything else will be easy.

Regards, Louis

[tankme]

Gonna be a cool project. There are already some mods to the kit being developed by folks on Facebook from FCModeltrend. The Aussie FSV and the M577 command vehicle conversions are waiting testing before release. FCM will also have the A3 external fuel tanks available shortly.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

I am watching your usual thorough description and handiwork. I have not yet bought the M113 from Andy's, but I am weakening.

[HERMAN BIX]

Welcome back from your vacation Mr Mcq11
And thanks for this edition of “ blow your cerebral cortex” for us simpletons to enjoy

I have two of those gearboxes I am hoping to use to power up a couple of statics so this is particularly helpful

[Dongskie]

Great work!!!

Following your build hoping for a running video soon!