RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I have 3 HL tanks with 1 HL on the way.

They are all plastic, no metal.

Was that a mistake?

To be honest, I have never had a need to crack one open
so I have never seen the inner electronics and wiring.

michaelwhittmann wrote:I have 3 HL tanks with 1 HL on the way.

They are all plastic, no metal.

Was that a mistake?

To be honest, I have never had a need to crack one open
so I have never seen the inner electronics and wiring.

If you enjoy them then nope! Also I'm not a fan of the "pro" parts HL use. Better to start with plastic and upgrade with taigen stuff as befits your needs

Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

No, not at all.
Although, depending on which models and release date, newer stuff for the better electronics. And some models run better than others.
Plastic tracks are cheap enough to replace should they suffer from overuse.
Nylon gears are better than those awful zink things. Obviously steel is the best, and can be purchased after the nylon ones have given up.

The one mod I would consider is clocking the furthest forward and furthest rear suspension springs on either side.

This guy is all plastic sans the steel gearbox-



I'm perfectly happy and don't have any issues. I have a mix of tanks from Heng Long all plastic to "'upgraded", "promotional" and "professional" versions to Taigen "metal". Depends on what you want and how much you want to invest, money, time, effort. They're your tanks, enjoy em.

Chef

I use Taigen metal hulls and metal running gear (NOT Heng Longs Pot Metal Gearboxes) But I do use Heng Longs ABS Bodies and with an ABS Tiger1 turret,
The PZ4 Taigen metal hull needs a lot of work but I favour it over the Heng Long ABS Hull and here we come to my biggest problem the Heng Long ABS PZ4 Body, They are almost impossible to find, I always fit a Taigen metal PZ4 turret because it is in my unworthy opinion the definitive even better than Tamiyas PZ4 turret.

The metal lower hull is the key, but it's not a flashy9 or cheap-ish upgrade like bogies, idlers, tracks, susp arms, gearbox, etc. And all that stuff works best with a nice rigid steel lower.

My all-plastic tanks see low impact use indoors and some outdoors but careful running. So far, so good and they suit my tanking and wallet temperament. Now if I was hardcore fighting with peeling around a dirt and grass field--yes, like a jackrabbit on methamphetamines--I'd be looking at metal stuff more.

Mike.

Herr michaelwittmann: if you want an all-plastic tank that looks as if it has seen some action, MrChef here has shown you an example of a way to get a great look. I'd bet he and many others would also be willing to tell you what supplies you need and how to go about it.

Sticking with the plastic-bodied Heng Long RC tanks is not a mistake at all in my opinion - they can be just as customizable and high performing as the metal versions.While metal hulls may allow for more precision replication of exact tank scales and can withstand rougher handling, I've found the plastic HL bodies to be more than durable enough for typical RC combat use.And as you mentioned, you never have to deal with cracking open the hull for electronics access. Servos, ESCs, and other components can simply be switched through the access hatches if needed.So at the end of the day, it comes down more to personal aesthetic preferences. But functionality-wise, you definitely didn't make any mistake going for plastic hulls. Saves weight too! Just be cautious not to let any TC mortar shells dent your plastic armor too badly. Enjoy your new fleet! Type Calendar is more than just documents! We offer a comprehensive collection of free professional resources, including templates for reports, presentations, and spreadsheets. Additionally, our platform features a variety of eye-catching designs to enhance both your corporate and personal endeavors. Explore our site today to access these invaluable tools and begin optimizing your projects with efficiency and style.Medication Schedule Templates are valuable tools designed to help individuals manage their medication routines effectively.

It all depends on what you want to do with your plastic tanks.
I own about 25 German tanks, most of 'm are Taigen metal ones, the rest of 'm are the Heng Long plastic monsters.
During the rebuild of the models and the fun having during those rebuilds, for me there's not much of a difference between metal and plastic.
Metal ones do have a better performance outdoors, due to their weight. The plastic ones can be a little "jumpy".
My latest HL models run the TK-6.2 and the TK-7.0 mainboards and they are a charm to drive!
Personally I like those better than the Taigen V3, but that is just my opinion.
What I do like about the HL plastic ones, you do not have to pay a fortune to start with.
If you like, you can always upgrade 'm with metal parts, but as I said in the beginning, it all depends on your plans with the tanks...
Ride the Hell out of them outdoors, or make a shelf queen out of it....
Mostly I prefer riding the metal ones outdoors, the plastic models mostly become deco objects in photo shoots.
Recently I did rebuild 4 Heng Long King Tigers, and I loved all rebuilds!
So buy and built what you like and what you can afford.
Most important: have fun during the rebuilds and afterwards you can be proud of your own skills!
Everybody can buy one, making it your own, that's the most satisfying part!
Merry X-Mas,
Rob.

I do not want to blow this thread, just like to show what you can do with some plastic HL tanks, without spending a fortune.
All 4 of 'm are different, all have a different crew.

On all 4 of 'm, I did saw the front of the headlights off, and replaced it by a printed cover. You can just saw that ugly front part off and make it even with a file.
Do paint the inside of the new cover black, otherwise the light will shine trough with the headlights on, and that looks a bit odd.
Please do not worry about the working of the headlights with those front parts been taken off, they still function!

What I also did on all 4 Kingtigers, I drilled the plastic tow hooks there where the bolts supposed to be. Cut the roundings off (which should slide into the holes on the hull) en cut some cupper electricity wires. Made the wires fit the hooks, attached the hooks onto the hull, slide the cupper wire in and glue it all together. When dried up, I put a drop of Tamiya Dunkelgelb on each side of the wire and you're done!
So in fact, no need buying them in metal....

A metal turret is, in my opinion, not nesessary too. It is only extra weight.
But all 4 KT's do have a metal main gun.
If you watch videos from metal versions of the Taigen KT's for example, you can notice the main gun wobbling up and down while the tank is driven outdoors.
Does not look very real to me, and on these HL KT's, the main gun's are steady as a rock! They do not move one single mm while driving.

Number 1:
Out of the box, no changes at all (except for the headlight cover,) just added the Hinterhalt Tarnung and an AK enamel wash.


Number 2:
Took some side skirts off on both sides.
Headlight cover
Added the Hinterhalt Tarnung and the AK enamel wash


Number 3:
Took all the side skirts off on both sides.
Headlight cover.
Added the Hinterhalt Tarnung and the AK enamel wash


Number 4, the last one:
Again, took some side skirts off on both sides, swapped the plastic tow cables for some home-made metal ones.
Headlight cover.
Added the same Hinterhalt Tarnung and the AK enamel wash too.


Rob.