RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi everyone,

My next build will be a Late Israeli Sho't Meteor Centurion with the L7 105mm gun.

A few years ago, i built a Sho't Kal Gimel on a Ludwig base, one of the four remotorized version with the Continental engine (Kal is acronym for Continental), with Blazer ERA. So, i need something new this time. Maybe a bit simpler but it won't be just a MkIII or Mk V with Meteor engine updated with a 105mm gun. More modifications are required for an accurate Late model Sho't Meteor engine version in use in the IDF just prior to the conversion to the Continental engine in the early 70s.


Below is a Late Sho't Meteor. Other than the obvious 105mm L7 that replaced the 20 Pdr and the .50cal machine gun on a AA mount, we can see headlights and guards on the glacis.

What i initially thought was a Sho't Kal because of the redesigned angled rear of the tank, is actually a late model Sho't Meteor with a new armored rear for an additional armored fuel tank. We can see the exhaust of the Meteor and no air filters on the sides. There is a box on the left rear side of the turret, likely for storage of the search light that can be mounted on the mantlet. There are two jerrycans at the back. The tank in front of it seems to be a Sho't kal, with different setup at the rear and with turret basket.


Another view of a Sho't Meteor. Notice the vertical exhaust.


A damaged Sho't Meteor. Notice the bracket on the mantlet. I first thought it would be for a mantlet mounted .50cal but its for the searlight.


On my web research, i found a graph of unknown origin. Not very detailed but it is consistent with a Late Sho't Meteor. Notice the angles at the extended rear in profile (similar to Sho't Kal but different than the mk 6+), additional grills on the second deck instead of flat plates, and a plate with a fuel cap at the rear to fill the extra fuel tank just under it.


There are quite a few war monuments in Israel where visiting people posted tons of pictures on google map (Golan heights 7th brigade memorial, radar hill, Latrun tank museum) with what seemed to be Sho't Meteor tanks with L7 guns. However, i quickly became suspicious when i saw items on them that do not fit IDF wartime pictures of Sho't Meteor, red flags such as the Hush Puppy tracks (unlikely for desert warfare), a guard around the smoke grenade dischargers, larger square box on the left turret rear, turret basket, different guards for head lights, box on glacis right side.


Looks like these might be Dutch Centurions purchased by the Israelis for display purposes in tank memorials, close enough but they never served in the IDF and they show differences with real Sho't tanks. Use of these monuments as detailed reference for an IDF Sho't Meteor should be avoided, you'll end up with a Dutch Centurion below but in IDF colors.


Continuing on following post.

The base model will be the new 1/16 RC TONGDE Centurion Mk 5. Purchased within Canada for about US $190 with $20 shipping, it is the bargain of the decade for me, specially after spending close to 2K in total for the Ludwig Centurion and all the additional stuff ordered, a quarter of it was shipping, custom and taxes...

It is a rough Diamond, perfect as a base kit for a total rebuild. Basic dimensions were compared to the AFV-Club 1/35 Centurion and so far look pretty good, close within 1 to 2mm everywhere i checked. I will likely find specific issues later but it is a good base.

Detail is rough, some missing, corners are too sharp but the basic is there.


The turret side bins are separate, glued to but not molded with the main turret. This is good. This will allow them to be separated with some effort and totally reworked.


They should be spaced like this.


Exhaust guards are molded with the hull, so that area will require more effort to correct. Supports for the fenders look short.


Side skirts are molded with the upper hull. I might separate them but not sure yet. I kind of like the solidity they offer compared to the Ludwig skirts that were accurately installed, but are a nightmare to watch over, with very fragile mounts. Something would touch them and they would rip apart. Keep in mind that side skirts were installed by the IDF only during wartime for the same reason. With the TONGDE model, you could plow through bushes or mud and everything will be ok.


Inside view, it comes with BB. I already removed the control board.

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Same interior setup as the M60.


Working Horstmann suspension, seem to be more solid than the M-60 suspension arms. At least, nothing has broken so far by just opening the hull and manually playing a bit with the suspension. Let's see how long it will take me to order the metal upgrade...

The issue with the TONGDE metal upgrade kits is that they make the RC model go from 3 to 12 pounds... That's a big difference when manipulating the model, performing maintenance, or running the tank in your wife's garden. It ravages the whole place.


Tracks can look good after clean up and sanding. I did not check the metal track and road wheel upgrade kit that is currently available at DKLM. Might be interesting.


6 spares are provided, these will be useful.


Track adjuster, bolt heads not realistic.


Opening hatches and pistol port. Parts were not properly cleaned up when separated from the sprues. Lots of visible residue everywhere on the parts, and sometimes interfering with the operation, such as the loader's hatches that do not close properly. Some people at the TONGDE factory need some basic training on how to assemble a plastic model kit.


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Someone need to tell the lady at the factory to install the binoculars facing outward...


The sprues with the details


Same remote and control board as the M60, very good. Stickers are provided for markings.


This board has ports for servo elevation and recoil. On the M60, i was not able to setup the advertised second machine gun. The board would just not recognize the LED. Hope this one works.


Could not resist comparing the TONGDE Centurion with the Ludwig model converted to Sho't Kal Gimel a few years ago. Looks like a comparable base for much difference in cost.


Not sure if it is the Ludwig that is too high or the TONDGE that is too low yet, but there are a few mm difference in height between the two. It won't be obvious how to adjust the height if required.


The craftmanship could definitely be improved. Its not so hard to properly clean up a part and install it strait... I will tear everything apart anyway so that does not bother me too much but might be an issue for others.


Cat hair is a real scourge for a modeller, especially when painting a model...



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Comparing the rear of a regular Meteor Centurion Mk 5 with a Sho't Kal. Following this build, i am likely to upgrade my old Sho't Kal with new metal TONGDE Centurion tracks, new electronics and do a complete makeover.


Notice the lack of details on the thick guards around the engine grills, need total replacement for a rivet counter like me.


Turret top will require lots of small enhancements


Nicely placed switch and charging plug inside the driver's hatch.


I have the AFV-Club 1/35 Early Sho't Meteor that i will use for some reference, especially for the details on the engine deck. However, this Sho't model is a bit boring. It is a standard mk5 with 20pdr gun with type B fume extractor, with added parts for the AA .50cal machine gun and little else... But it comes with the additional armour for the glacis. That's why i found the late Sho't Meteor to be more interesting.


Guards detail.


Later Sho'ts got the up-armored add-on plate for the glacis, shown below, that needs to be applied to the TONGDE glacis after removing and reinstalling everything on top.


Detailed view for the .50cal mount, which will be a Tamiya M2 with the ABER treatment for details and ammo.


Continuing with following post.

For the build, i will be helped by the Accurate Armour 1/35 kit C078 which is for a Late Sho't Meteor. All the modifications designed for the 1/35 AFV Model kit will be brought up to 1/16 for use on the TONGDE Mk 5. The model will look like this, ready for war, with the new glacis, search light, turret top MG and rear engine area, plus fixing all the details and whatever is missing. The only issue i see with the model is the last grill at the tip. I think it should be a plate with a fuel cap but i need to do more research.


Notice the additional raised engine grills, the search light storage box on the turret and the redesigned rear plate for the armored fuel tank. There is no central tow hook.


The canvas cover will be something... The search light will be made functional with a LED. It's never seen installed in wartime pictures, but pictures are taken during the day when the search light is stored, not at night...


The MK Modellbau 105mm L7 gun will be used. I also saw these 3D printed Centurion turret bin locks advertized on their website. I order two sets.

The 3D printed lock should normally represent these.


However, it is with great dissapointment that i can see they are more likely to fit a huge 1/6 scale tank than a 1/16 tank. It is unlikely i will be able to use any of this stuff, unless i can reduce the size of some of the parts. I'll see but it's unlikely. What were they thinking...


That's it for now, The build is starting with the breaking up of the TONGDE model into individual parts for a total rebuild.

Regards, Louis

Louis, you must be doing this level of work full time. Do you even stop for food or—unh….? I am aways awed by what you can do, and so, here you go again!

Hi Louis,

I hope you don't mind me adding a couple of pics to your thread just to show what stage I'm at with my own tongde idf centurion. As you say the detail is a bit soft but again for the price you can't argue.
I bought mine from Dave forgebear for the bargain price of £300 and that included, metal tracks, wheels, sprockets, suspension, gearboxes and even the barrel
As I converted it for barrel recoil I changed the board for one of Andrew Haya's which has the servo recoil option and dedicated centurion sounds to boot.
I've tried to add some of the missing cosmetic details but haven't gone all out on it but I think it's passable, I've given it a primer coat of light yellow sand at the moment and that's how it sits until the weather here in the UK cools down a bit ( crazy right ) so that I can finish the paint job with the airbrush

Cheers, Lee.

Nice project Louis - I did a Sho’t Meteor as my most recent project using the Tamiya as a base.

I have a friend who prints the parts for me, he made the light bracket and Jerry can holders.

Herr Dr. Professor wrote: ↑Sat Sep 09, 2023 1:22 am Louis, you must be doing this level of work full time. Do you even stop for food or—unh….? I am aways awed by what you can do, and so, here you go again!

Retired... but always needed to have something on the workbench, to be creative, resolve small problems. My builds used to take 2 months in average, now they take 4. I take a few breaks here and there. People must have noticed.

Model Builder 4 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 09, 2023 7:41 am Hi Louis,

I hope you don't mind me adding a couple of pics to your thread just to show what stage I'm at with my own tongde idf centurion

Very nice model Lee. I also like what you did for the canvas cover.

Ad Lav wrote: ↑Sat Sep 09, 2023 7:55 am Nice project Louis - I did a Sho’t Meteor as my most recent project using the Tamiya as a base.

Saw it, we don't see many Tamiya Centurion. Great work.


Continuing with the Tongde build.


It took me just 20 minutes to break apart the Tongde Centurion in preparation for the following steps.


I noticed a weakness in the idler adjusters. I was able to snap it in just two strokes with a blade. The plastic is thin in this area. It's ok for a 3 pound model with plastic tracks and wheels, but i am thinking that reinforcements should be done for models with metal roadwheels and tracks where the weight of the model quadruples to about 12 pounds. The area behind the adjuster is well hidden and more triangular braces are an option.


Funny that TONGDE has put the rear red LEDs on the reflectors...more detailed than the tail lights.


Similar to what i did on the M60, the BB unit is being canibalized and the body is transformed into a recoil unit. The recoil piston that was somehow used for shooting the BB is made to slide freely all the way back using the side tracks.


The inside of thre mantlet allows for a recoil of 20mm, excellent.


First need to calculate the proper length of the exposed barrel so that i can cut it. I still have the AFV-Club Sho't Kal turret that i used a few years ago as reference. According to extrapolated 1/16 measurements, the barrel should be about 252.6mm from the tip of the mantlet to the tip of the barrel.


As noticed before, the MK Modellbau fume extractor is too long, and has defects. I need to rework it. The whole thing should not be longer than 40mm.


The roundels should also be flat on the edges, not rounded.


I cut it in pieces, reduced the length, created new roundels. Here awaiting reassembly and filing.


Now the fume extractor is 39.5mm in length, within specs. But all makers of L7 guns seem to have their own specs...


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