1/10th Brummbar
- baldrick131
- Lance Corporal
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1/10th Brummbar
I have started to build a 1/10th scale Brummbar as I have already made a 1/16th one but this will be built on a 3d printable Panzer 4 found here.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/pan ... -iv-ausf-j
I have started to build it as I am doing my Sig33b while the large parts are getting built on the printer so I am probably biting off more than I can chew at the moment but stick with me as I will get both of them done.
I am using Petg filament for the build with some resin printed parts for some of the more detailed parts.
I am more than happy with the quality of the model so far even though I have already re done some of the parts to be more to my liking and changes needed to suit the brummbar it will eventually become.
the first modification is the front top section as the model didn't have any bolt detail on the hinges only on the gearbox cover hinge.
so I drew up a new one.
My only problem part was the rear engine vents as they took up all of the printer bed they snapped when I tried to remove it from the bed.
But with the other engine cover parts and a bit of super glue you would never know.
The rear top part had a protrusion near the small round hatch detail for an antenna mount but I removed it in the printer slicer.
The track adjuster mounts also had some detail missing for the lever that is fitted on it so I redrew them with an opening to fit one that will get resin printed in ABS like resin.
The model has rubber tired road wheels and the tubular steel rear wheels so I printed one of each so I could measure them to make it have all steel road wheels and the non tubular type rear wheels.
I redrew the track return rollers as the model had no covers to hide the screws holing them on.
I drew up some covers for all the wheels and fired up the resin printer and just to compare them to the couple I printed on the other printer.
That's about as far as I have got with it the printer is burning the midnight oil printing gearbox parts as I want to get the hull into a rolling chassis less the tracks before I start to design and build the upper parts of the Brummbar but as I have a 1/16 kit under my belt it shouldnt take long to draw up its just a case of getting it to fit my printer bed.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/pan ... -iv-ausf-j
I have started to build it as I am doing my Sig33b while the large parts are getting built on the printer so I am probably biting off more than I can chew at the moment but stick with me as I will get both of them done.
I am using Petg filament for the build with some resin printed parts for some of the more detailed parts.
I am more than happy with the quality of the model so far even though I have already re done some of the parts to be more to my liking and changes needed to suit the brummbar it will eventually become.
the first modification is the front top section as the model didn't have any bolt detail on the hinges only on the gearbox cover hinge.
so I drew up a new one.
My only problem part was the rear engine vents as they took up all of the printer bed they snapped when I tried to remove it from the bed.
But with the other engine cover parts and a bit of super glue you would never know.
The rear top part had a protrusion near the small round hatch detail for an antenna mount but I removed it in the printer slicer.
The track adjuster mounts also had some detail missing for the lever that is fitted on it so I redrew them with an opening to fit one that will get resin printed in ABS like resin.
The model has rubber tired road wheels and the tubular steel rear wheels so I printed one of each so I could measure them to make it have all steel road wheels and the non tubular type rear wheels.
I redrew the track return rollers as the model had no covers to hide the screws holing them on.
I drew up some covers for all the wheels and fired up the resin printer and just to compare them to the couple I printed on the other printer.
That's about as far as I have got with it the printer is burning the midnight oil printing gearbox parts as I want to get the hull into a rolling chassis less the tracks before I start to design and build the upper parts of the Brummbar but as I have a 1/16 kit under my belt it shouldnt take long to draw up its just a case of getting it to fit my printer bed.
- HERMAN BIX
- Brigadier
- Posts: 10355
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:15 am
- Location: Gold Coast,Australia
Re: 1/10th Brummbar
Just mindblowing!!
I will be following along on this for sure
I will be following along on this for sure
HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
- Herr Dr. Professor
- Lieutenant
- Posts: 3699
- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2019 10:48 pm
- Location: Southern Wisconsin USA
Re: 1/10th Brummbar
Lurking... drooling... white in amazement... green with envy...
- baldrick131
- Lance Corporal
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Fri Oct 04, 2019 8:46 pm
- Location: March cambridgeshire
- Contact:
Re: 1/10th Brummbar
Despite my issues with my other project I am steaming along with this one (my poor printer has barely been switched off since I started appart from repairs as it falls apart )
I re designed the rear idler wheels and made them screwed and glued together two piece parts.
Because the hub of the new wheel is bigger the Allen bolt that holds the axle in place is inaccessible with a tool so I got a couple of bolts and pushed them in and as its petg it wedged itself in place so when the wheel-axle assembly is fitted I tighten the I just need to tighten the nut
So with the resin printed hub cover added its done now on to the next part.
I printed the drive axles and decided to make it more resilient and one piece (sort of )
I made it hollow to have a piece of 5mm carbon tube I had kicking around glued in place and trimmed when dry it will also have the sprocket mounting hole drilled and tapped M3.
Just waiting for the motor and ESC's to turn up so I can fit the gearboxes properly.
Now to finish printing the suspension parts and the road wheel.
I re designed the rear idler wheels and made them screwed and glued together two piece parts.
Because the hub of the new wheel is bigger the Allen bolt that holds the axle in place is inaccessible with a tool so I got a couple of bolts and pushed them in and as its petg it wedged itself in place so when the wheel-axle assembly is fitted I tighten the I just need to tighten the nut
So with the resin printed hub cover added its done now on to the next part.
I printed the drive axles and decided to make it more resilient and one piece (sort of )
I made it hollow to have a piece of 5mm carbon tube I had kicking around glued in place and trimmed when dry it will also have the sprocket mounting hole drilled and tapped M3.
Just waiting for the motor and ESC's to turn up so I can fit the gearboxes properly.
Now to finish printing the suspension parts and the road wheel.
- baldrick131
- Lance Corporal
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Fri Oct 04, 2019 8:46 pm
- Location: March cambridgeshire
- Contact:
Re: 1/10th Brummbar
After many hours of printing I thought it was time to do an update on progress.
I wasn't happy about glueing the drive sprockets together so I caded up a new one piece sprocket I'm more than happy with having support material to remove and clean up without the worry of gluing petg together.
The suspension units are printed and fitted
My motor's turned up and I fitted them but I'm not happy with the way one motor sits high in the hull.
So I re drew the motor mount for the lower side gearbox with two sets of holes so I can offset the motor bodies.
Then printed the lower gearbox but mirrored in the slicer software.
So I would end up with two lower gearboxes.
The reason I redid the motor mount with two holes was I needed to twist the motors to avoid the terminals touching.
I got some grey petg so I could print out the road wheels and I also re did the drive sprockets and idler wheels.
After a lot of fiddling around printing and a bit of clean up I assembled one side of track and temporary fitted to see what it looks like I still have half of the other track to assemble and fit.
Yesterday the printer started leaking from above the hot end so it's going to get an overhaul but it hasn't really stopped printing for a couple of weeks solid so I'm not surprised it need a bit of tlc.
My next job is finish the track and possibly build another TCB and get it moving to see what fall off and if it runs properly I can move on with the design of the Brummbar parts and get the printer working overtime again.
I wasn't happy about glueing the drive sprockets together so I caded up a new one piece sprocket I'm more than happy with having support material to remove and clean up without the worry of gluing petg together.
The suspension units are printed and fitted
My motor's turned up and I fitted them but I'm not happy with the way one motor sits high in the hull.
So I re drew the motor mount for the lower side gearbox with two sets of holes so I can offset the motor bodies.
Then printed the lower gearbox but mirrored in the slicer software.
So I would end up with two lower gearboxes.
The reason I redid the motor mount with two holes was I needed to twist the motors to avoid the terminals touching.
I got some grey petg so I could print out the road wheels and I also re did the drive sprockets and idler wheels.
After a lot of fiddling around printing and a bit of clean up I assembled one side of track and temporary fitted to see what it looks like I still have half of the other track to assemble and fit.
Yesterday the printer started leaking from above the hot end so it's going to get an overhaul but it hasn't really stopped printing for a couple of weeks solid so I'm not surprised it need a bit of tlc.
My next job is finish the track and possibly build another TCB and get it moving to see what fall off and if it runs properly I can move on with the design of the Brummbar parts and get the printer working overtime again.
- tankme
- Warrant Officer 1st Class
- Posts: 1995
- Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2017 3:51 pm
- Location: Elgin, TX
- Contact:
Re: 1/10th Brummbar
Nice. I use MEK on PETG, but just be careful with MEK as it's really nasty stuff. PETG glued with MEK creates a very strong bond.
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...
- baldrick131
- Lance Corporal
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Fri Oct 04, 2019 8:46 pm
- Location: March cambridgeshire
- Contact:
- HERMAN BIX
- Brigadier
- Posts: 10355
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:15 am
- Location: Gold Coast,Australia
Re: 1/10th Brummbar
Brilliant Baldrick!!
Really clever work going on mate and a massive rap for the innovative use of the printer.
Really clever work going on mate and a massive rap for the innovative use of the printer.
HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
- Raminator
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
- Posts: 1267
- Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:57 am
- Location: Newcastle, Australia
Re: 1/10th Brummbar
Coming together really nicely Baldrick, it looks like it'll be a really solid runner.
I think 1:10 is a really good compromise for larger-scale stuff. Not so over-the-top as 1:6, but bigger and more impressive than 1:16. I might need to reconsider my priorities...
I think 1:10 is a really good compromise for larger-scale stuff. Not so over-the-top as 1:6, but bigger and more impressive than 1:16. I might need to reconsider my priorities...