1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 Patton tank with ERA - Build
Re: 1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build
A bracket was designed to fit the rear basket thickness of the first bar, using a M0.6 brass bolt.
The spare road wheel is tested, looking good but a bit too high. I need to lower it by a couple of mm.
The model is prepared for painting. I do not want any enamel primer on the canvas so it has been covered as well.
The model is applied with a first coat of Tamiya enamel grey primer. This is important to seal the putty used for the cast effect because the oil it contains would eventually make its way to the surface and ruin the paint job forever.
This is the phase where all defects become apparent and need to be corrected, such as cracks, glue residue, dust, cat hair, etc that can ruin the look of the model at close ups.
It does not take long to fix them and the areas are given another coat of primer.
This is also when some printed lines on specific areas of the DKLM upgrade kit become apparent. Corrections are needed.
Continuing on following post
The spare road wheel is tested, looking good but a bit too high. I need to lower it by a couple of mm.
The model is prepared for painting. I do not want any enamel primer on the canvas so it has been covered as well.
The model is applied with a first coat of Tamiya enamel grey primer. This is important to seal the putty used for the cast effect because the oil it contains would eventually make its way to the surface and ruin the paint job forever.
This is the phase where all defects become apparent and need to be corrected, such as cracks, glue residue, dust, cat hair, etc that can ruin the look of the model at close ups.
It does not take long to fix them and the areas are given another coat of primer.
This is also when some printed lines on specific areas of the DKLM upgrade kit become apparent. Corrections are needed.
Continuing on following post
Re: 1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build
The took hook was cleaned up using mostly a sharp blade. It would have been easier to correct earlier in the build before installation on the hull. I should have known better. Printer lines never disappear with paint...
The model is ready for the acrylic light desert tan color.
It had been a while since i worked on the cupola. I took the opportunity to refine the mantlet cover.
I searched the web for the right color for Desert Storm US armor, with no definive answer than being light desert tan. Apparently, painting the tanks was a rush job and most tanks were applied with whatever sand color was available. Looks like there was no standard. Using reference pictures, i determine that the following 50/50 mix would work for the tank i am representing. I use Mig-0011 Dunkelgelb 44 DGI and Mig-0012 Dunkelgelb 44 DGIII, but also because i had these available, and needed two bottles to do a complete 1/16 tank...
I decided to model the tank Genesis II. The color of my M-60A1 seems right, and the markings are cool. There is also a whole section on this specific tank in the Sabot/Verlinden book, which makes the creation and placement of decals much easier.
Need an US flag too.
Continuing on following post.
The model is ready for the acrylic light desert tan color.
It had been a while since i worked on the cupola. I took the opportunity to refine the mantlet cover.
I searched the web for the right color for Desert Storm US armor, with no definive answer than being light desert tan. Apparently, painting the tanks was a rush job and most tanks were applied with whatever sand color was available. Looks like there was no standard. Using reference pictures, i determine that the following 50/50 mix would work for the tank i am representing. I use Mig-0011 Dunkelgelb 44 DGI and Mig-0012 Dunkelgelb 44 DGIII, but also because i had these available, and needed two bottles to do a complete 1/16 tank...
I decided to model the tank Genesis II. The color of my M-60A1 seems right, and the markings are cool. There is also a whole section on this specific tank in the Sabot/Verlinden book, which makes the creation and placement of decals much easier.
Need an US flag too.
Continuing on following post.
Re: 1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build
And by some obvious coincidence, i noticed the transfers provided by TONGDE include markings for Genesis II. These transfers should not be used on a scale model because they will ruin the look and feel of the model. However, the plan is to scan them and produce my own decals.
Some markings on the real tank are much smaller than how they are represented on the transfer sheet. So i will need to downscale some of them, but others seem right.
Just for fun, i selected the TONGDE logo transfer and applied it to a plastic sheet. You can see the results. The transfers are glossy.
And quite thick, something i do not want on my tank.
That's it for now. Next step is the creation and application of the decals.
Regards, Louis
Some markings on the real tank are much smaller than how they are represented on the transfer sheet. So i will need to downscale some of them, but others seem right.
Just for fun, i selected the TONGDE logo transfer and applied it to a plastic sheet. You can see the results. The transfers are glossy.
And quite thick, something i do not want on my tank.
That's it for now. Next step is the creation and application of the decals.
Regards, Louis
Re: 1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build
Hello,
This post is for the decals
After scanning the TONGDE transfer sheet into a PDF, i copied it to Powerpoint where i did some manipulations and some creations. Before printing on decal paper, i printed a few versions on regular paper for dry fitting the size of each of them against the model and adjust as needed.
I created a few spares for each. Then i set the inkjet printer to best quality and printed the sheet on transparent decal paper purchased earlier on Amazon. Because these decals are all black and mostly letterings, they need a transparent decal sheet, not a white decal sheet that is usually for decals with color or background. Then the sheet is given one coat of Tamiya semi gloss varnish. I usually do two coats of varnish but i am trying one coat here so that the decals are as thin as possible.
Some extras were later printed to correct sizes and applications issues. These V are difficult to apply, they are large and i tried to avoid going over the ERA bolt heads by finding the optimal location for each. I know some guys would create a template for the V and spray black paint but since these bolt heads do not create a flat surface, i thought appling decals is less risky.
Although the decal sheet has its own glue that can set the decal in place correctly when it slides carefully, i realized in a earlier build that soaking the model area with a decal fixer a few seconds before sliding the decals help positioning the decal and it hads a stronger bond.
Here is a quick walk around of the Genesis II decals that were applied. As i can see in reference pictures, the markings for Genesis II changed over time during Desert Storm. Depending on the timing of each picture, some markings show up, and others are different later...
I also started painting details and applied a first coat of Tamiya flat varnish to seal the decals. But keep in mind that the model is not yet weathered at all.
This post is for the decals
After scanning the TONGDE transfer sheet into a PDF, i copied it to Powerpoint where i did some manipulations and some creations. Before printing on decal paper, i printed a few versions on regular paper for dry fitting the size of each of them against the model and adjust as needed.
I created a few spares for each. Then i set the inkjet printer to best quality and printed the sheet on transparent decal paper purchased earlier on Amazon. Because these decals are all black and mostly letterings, they need a transparent decal sheet, not a white decal sheet that is usually for decals with color or background. Then the sheet is given one coat of Tamiya semi gloss varnish. I usually do two coats of varnish but i am trying one coat here so that the decals are as thin as possible.
Some extras were later printed to correct sizes and applications issues. These V are difficult to apply, they are large and i tried to avoid going over the ERA bolt heads by finding the optimal location for each. I know some guys would create a template for the V and spray black paint but since these bolt heads do not create a flat surface, i thought appling decals is less risky.
Although the decal sheet has its own glue that can set the decal in place correctly when it slides carefully, i realized in a earlier build that soaking the model area with a decal fixer a few seconds before sliding the decals help positioning the decal and it hads a stronger bond.
Here is a quick walk around of the Genesis II decals that were applied. As i can see in reference pictures, the markings for Genesis II changed over time during Desert Storm. Depending on the timing of each picture, some markings show up, and others are different later...
I also started painting details and applied a first coat of Tamiya flat varnish to seal the decals. But keep in mind that the model is not yet weathered at all.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Mon Sep 04, 2023 10:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build
This is a powerpoint creation, representing the call signs of the crew members of Genesis II, exactly as seen in one picture in the Sabot/Verlinden book.
Next step, finishing the painting of the detail and the weathering of the model and tracks.
Regards, Louis
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Re: 1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build
The decals are obviously much better. But did TongDe provide "stickers" or are those actually transfers, the type one rubs on? I can't believe TongDe would provide icky stickies as on cheap toys!
Re: 1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build
TONGDE provided stickers, but the application method is by rubbing the back liner. These are not the delicate and thin dry transfers that some of us are using, such as Archers.Herr Dr. Professor wrote: ↑Mon Sep 04, 2023 11:18 pm The decals are obviously much better. But did TongDe provide "stickers" or are those actually transfers, the type one rubs on? I can't believe TongDe would provide icky stickies as on cheap toys!
Re: 1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build
Hi everyone,
After 4 months, the build of the USMC M60A1 is finished. The following posts are for the weathering phase, and then a final photoshoot at the end.
Analysis of the action pictures of the Sabot/Verlinden show that most tanks had very light weathering. The climate seemed very much aseptic, dry and sand dunes. I noticed that many tanks had a US flag on the main antenna.
As usual on my build, i usually start with a light weathering using black pigments to highlight details and to create shadows for deep areas and corners. I then applied a bit of North African dust pigments on the lower hull, and that's about it. Then applied two coats of Tamiya flat clear.
The tracks were given a AK light rust track wash, carefully cleaning the area for the rubber pads. Then given a coat of Tamiya flat clear.
The following is an intermediate photoshoot to check the weathering. I would usually discard these but they provide close up details of the model and they are pretty good pictures. So, instead of deleting them, i am posting them here.
Continuing on following post
After 4 months, the build of the USMC M60A1 is finished. The following posts are for the weathering phase, and then a final photoshoot at the end.
Analysis of the action pictures of the Sabot/Verlinden show that most tanks had very light weathering. The climate seemed very much aseptic, dry and sand dunes. I noticed that many tanks had a US flag on the main antenna.
As usual on my build, i usually start with a light weathering using black pigments to highlight details and to create shadows for deep areas and corners. I then applied a bit of North African dust pigments on the lower hull, and that's about it. Then applied two coats of Tamiya flat clear.
The tracks were given a AK light rust track wash, carefully cleaning the area for the rubber pads. Then given a coat of Tamiya flat clear.
The following is an intermediate photoshoot to check the weathering. I would usually discard these but they provide close up details of the model and they are pretty good pictures. So, instead of deleting them, i am posting them here.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Wed Sep 06, 2023 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.