RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

So here goes with my first documented project. A Heng Long Jagdpanther Pro.

Follow me tear down a perfectly good brand new RC model with the goal of customizing it for myself. I'll share every step and feel free to give me advice or ask me anything. I am a NEWBIE so please be gentle. I am here to learn as well as share. While I am adventurous in this new hobby my skills and tools are limited so don't expect me cutting and re-engineering the front hull like Jnewboy customs. Baby steps please. Enjoy, I sure am.

Chef


When last we left in the Show off catagory Mr. HERMAN BIX correctly identified my newly delivered box as a Jagdpanther!

Lets see my Birthday gift-


Let's compare her to her Panther G sister-

Ohh that Panther G is a dirty girl.

Here have your own spotlight-


I think the new girl needs a name, any suggestions?

So I did the unboxing. Everything was in good shape and included. I popped in a battery that I already had charged and ran the model through it's test phase to make sure all the functions worked properly. CHECK! All good there.

Then while looking at her more closely I noticed that the track on one side and metal sprocket and idler wheel were hazy, kinda looked corroded. I'd never seen this before on any of my previous metal models and when I did searches on several different forums couldn't find any posts dealing with the same issue as me. Take a look-






Sooo what to do? Call and complain to the seller? Nahhh I figure I could clean it because as you guys know I like to blue/blacken my tracks. And at the very worst I'll just paint them.

Which leads me to: WHAT WOULD YOU DO? OR USE TO CLEAN THEM OR HOW WOULD YOU GO ABOUT FIXING THIS?

I wouldnt bother trying to fix it, rather put the effort into getting them looking right by blueing or painting.
I have seen this on mine, usually a sign of old stock probably stored in a humid environment prior to fitting. I dont keep the H/L metal tracks for long.
H/L tracks are open pin, so they are prone to failure after running a while and especially if run in sand or stones.
Taigen ones are the best in that respect, full & larger pin and very rugged accordingly.
Being in the CONUS I/you would purchase the cheapest base tank all plastic & selectively purchase the high end parts from IMEX in Fla. to upgrade it.

Either way, go your hardest mate, lets see how she turns out

HERMAN BIX wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2023 2:18 am I wouldnt bother trying to fix it, rather put the effort into getting them looking right by blueing or painting.
I have seen this on mine, usually a sign of old stock probably stored in a humid environment prior to fitting. I dont keep the H/L metal tracks for long.
H/L tracks are open pin, so they are prone to failure after running a while and especially if run in sand or stones.
Taigen ones are the best in that respect, full & larger pin and very rugged accordingly.
Being in the CONUS I/you would purchase the cheapest base tank all plastic & selectively purchase the high end parts from IMEX in Fla. to upgrade it.

Either way, go your hardest mate, lets see how she turns out

Agreed, agreed, agreed. Remember birthday gift. So we move forward.

I tested my bluing fluid on the corroded track and yuck didn't work well.So off to cleaning the track. I used-

Alcohol
Mineral spirits
Acetone
Peroxide
Vinegar
Simple Green
Super Clean
WD-40
Brasso
All applied with plastic scrubbing brush and rinsed with warm water. Nope nada nothing.

So I was about to try Easy-Off Oven cleaner since I used that on painted tracks that I wanted to blue a few months back and it worked like a charm.

So I scratched and etched the track with a metal pick and saw the stuff would scrape off but damn thats alot of metal to scratch or scuff. So on a whim I tried-

with my electric drill and firm plastic drill brush-


And after a few episodes of Seinfeld Voila-


Almost perfect!

Next of to fitting the skirts I had mocked up-

And heres a box of parts-

Great progress and congratulations on cleaning those tracks!
A thing to remember with the Schurzen is that they overlap from the front. That’s so there is no leading edge to catch on things.
Rear plate first then overlap the next one over the edge of the previous plate. I’m sure that was often got wrong in real life, but in our scale it helps avoid ripping them off too.

Good work so far and as is a now famous saying “ following along”

In his first message, Mr. Chief, written? I quote "I'm only a beginner " well I would like to get started as well, for the camouflage, I look forward to the rest, and especially that he shows us his technique, the products employees, etc. Because I take it, as with a lot of members here, full of eyes

Found on the Web, info on "Schurzens" sorry if in French? but google tranlaste is your friend!! if can help?
https://panzerchronique.jimdofree.com/a ... C3%BCrzen/

Gee, for a beginner, you're durn good at this! I'd bet that it was the bristle brush combined with the electric moxie, not so much the various chemical assaults, that cleaned off the track oxidation. Congratulations on a great start. I wonder if there are names in any of the Jagdpanther books I have. Hmm...