M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Nicely done Louis!
The hatch looks great.
Barry
The hatch looks great.
Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
Leonardo Da Vinci
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Thank you Kaczor, Painlesswolf and Barry
Finally, the moment of truth. The installation and connection of all the electronics, and testing. There is a Youtube video of the electronics in action at the end of the two posts.
Turret top interior showing the 25mm chain gun recoil motorized system with flash, and the LED for the Coax machine gun. The elevation servo is attached to the bottom section of the turret and operates the wheel. As mentioned in a earlier post, the recoil motor is connected to the smoker port on the Elmod board. When shooting, i need to start the smoker first and then synchronized the shooting of the auxiliary machine gun flash and sound. These two are independent. The chain gun can be fired without the recoil of course but its less impressive.
In order to limit the number of cables going down the turret basket, i did not plug the servo that swivel the TOW launcher, i did not find the associated action to be entertaining. But i kept the servo that raises the TOW launcher and i connected it to an independent channel assigned to the VRB wheel on the remote. The connection of the servo arm needed to be redone because the installation coming with the kit simply disappeared somewhere after a couple of test. It must have been a simple screw or something like that.
Views of the turret and basket after some independent tests and before its final mounting on the chassis. It is deposited here on a roll of black electric tape for display purposes. Carson did come back to me about the missing right grenade discharger part but it will take some time to get it.
The wiring for the servos coming down on the basket right side and other wires through the tube have been laid out like the wiring seen on the real thing.
The connections of the flexible arms with the Chain gun mount have been done with M1 brass bolts, washers and nuts. Be aware that all the hardware coming with the kit, which are mainly small screws, were not used because they are not authentic looking. You need to purchase yourself all the brass M0.8, M1 and M1.2 hex bolts (length x4, x6 and x8) that you see on this build.
Preparing the raised mount for the Elmod board in front of the turret cage, leaving space for the turret wiring to coil inside the turret cage and under the Elmod board, allowing for a minimum of 180 degree of turret rotation on both side without creating any issues. I have avoided doing 360s to avoid any trouble because it can be avoided but it is likely doable.
The Elmod board is mounted. It was configured with the M-113 as the base for the vehicle sound. It was the closest.
Continuing on following post
Finally, the moment of truth. The installation and connection of all the electronics, and testing. There is a Youtube video of the electronics in action at the end of the two posts.
Turret top interior showing the 25mm chain gun recoil motorized system with flash, and the LED for the Coax machine gun. The elevation servo is attached to the bottom section of the turret and operates the wheel. As mentioned in a earlier post, the recoil motor is connected to the smoker port on the Elmod board. When shooting, i need to start the smoker first and then synchronized the shooting of the auxiliary machine gun flash and sound. These two are independent. The chain gun can be fired without the recoil of course but its less impressive.
In order to limit the number of cables going down the turret basket, i did not plug the servo that swivel the TOW launcher, i did not find the associated action to be entertaining. But i kept the servo that raises the TOW launcher and i connected it to an independent channel assigned to the VRB wheel on the remote. The connection of the servo arm needed to be redone because the installation coming with the kit simply disappeared somewhere after a couple of test. It must have been a simple screw or something like that.
Views of the turret and basket after some independent tests and before its final mounting on the chassis. It is deposited here on a roll of black electric tape for display purposes. Carson did come back to me about the missing right grenade discharger part but it will take some time to get it.
The wiring for the servos coming down on the basket right side and other wires through the tube have been laid out like the wiring seen on the real thing.
The connections of the flexible arms with the Chain gun mount have been done with M1 brass bolts, washers and nuts. Be aware that all the hardware coming with the kit, which are mainly small screws, were not used because they are not authentic looking. You need to purchase yourself all the brass M0.8, M1 and M1.2 hex bolts (length x4, x6 and x8) that you see on this build.
Preparing the raised mount for the Elmod board in front of the turret cage, leaving space for the turret wiring to coil inside the turret cage and under the Elmod board, allowing for a minimum of 180 degree of turret rotation on both side without creating any issues. I have avoided doing 360s to avoid any trouble because it can be avoided but it is likely doable.
The Elmod board is mounted. It was configured with the M-113 as the base for the vehicle sound. It was the closest.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Wed Jan 04, 2023 3:27 am, edited 5 times in total.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
All available rear estate has to be used and optimized on this build.
A good quality Heng Long speaker has been installed on the right side of the turret cage, without its box. It is ideally positioned where the exhaust is located on the real vehicle.
A raised stand for the battery has been created above the board wiring.
The short battery will be laid out like this, next to the switch that will be connected under the driver's hatch.
Final view of the layout of the electronics before closing the upper hull. Notice all the connections for the interior lighting at the front of the rotation unit. Those tiny wires are fragile and were protected with black tape in key places and at the connections. The turret wiring coming down at the bottom of the turret cage are loosely grouped and positioned with a twist in a single direction. It is important to minimize any obstacle or resistance point for the wiring to twist and turn as the turret rotates. Some plasticard shields were installed between the wiring and the gearbox to prevent any chance of a wire going loose between gears. The volume control for the speaker is located under the front engine hatch.
The turret rotation unit is a high torque Mato metal unit, absolutely required on such build with turret baskets and wiring.
The power switch is ideally positioned under the large driver's hatch, allowing the battery itself to be easily and securely plugged or unplugged by manually raising the hatch.
Opening driver's hatch is permanently installed.
Rear small hatch manually opens. I am noticing i must be missing a interior handle on the door. i'll look into it.
Main ramp is connected to an independent channel assigned to the VRA knob on the remote control.
The model as it stands today. Next step is to install the side skirts.
Short YOUTUBE video of all the electronics in action.
Regards, Louis
A good quality Heng Long speaker has been installed on the right side of the turret cage, without its box. It is ideally positioned where the exhaust is located on the real vehicle.
A raised stand for the battery has been created above the board wiring.
The short battery will be laid out like this, next to the switch that will be connected under the driver's hatch.
Final view of the layout of the electronics before closing the upper hull. Notice all the connections for the interior lighting at the front of the rotation unit. Those tiny wires are fragile and were protected with black tape in key places and at the connections. The turret wiring coming down at the bottom of the turret cage are loosely grouped and positioned with a twist in a single direction. It is important to minimize any obstacle or resistance point for the wiring to twist and turn as the turret rotates. Some plasticard shields were installed between the wiring and the gearbox to prevent any chance of a wire going loose between gears. The volume control for the speaker is located under the front engine hatch.
The turret rotation unit is a high torque Mato metal unit, absolutely required on such build with turret baskets and wiring.
The power switch is ideally positioned under the large driver's hatch, allowing the battery itself to be easily and securely plugged or unplugged by manually raising the hatch.
Opening driver's hatch is permanently installed.
Rear small hatch manually opens. I am noticing i must be missing a interior handle on the door. i'll look into it.
Main ramp is connected to an independent channel assigned to the VRA knob on the remote control.
The model as it stands today. Next step is to install the side skirts.
Short YOUTUBE video of all the electronics in action.
Regards, Louis
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
Leonardo Da Vinci
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
The attention to detail is absolutely amazing. What makes it even better is that everything works as well! Superb!
In progress:
M4A1(75)
M4A1(76)W HVSS
M4A2 Fisher
M4A1(75)
M4A1(76)W HVSS
M4A2 Fisher
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Thanks Barry,
I am in the final stages of construction
Next are the side skirts.
As seen in the Sabot book on M2A3, the side skirts are covered with attachment points for crew and soldiers personal equipment. There are 4 types of attachments (1 to 4 points). I used the graph below for instructions as to which ones go where. But i have a feeling it is up to the crew to decide which ones they want to put on their tanks and at what location.
The kit provides more than enough attachments of each types for any configuration. Below is the sprue with the 4 points. A few are defective but it does not matter because about only half are used.
I decided to attach them with M1 x 4 and M1 x 6 brass bolts with washers. I had hundreds of these bolts on inventory when i started the build and it used all of them, i just barely had enough.
The attachments on the bottom row we given a 6mm long bolt because they are the ones holding the skirts against the upper hull. I small hole was drilled all the way through the upper hull cover in order for the bolts to screw into the hull and keep the skirts solidly in place. If needed, the skirts are removable. Not sure what kind of glue could have been used to glue the 3D printed skirts against the hull but i determined i did not have any glue that could have done the job. There is something about 3D SLA part that sometimes is impossible to glue, no matter how much or how long you take.
Of course, any one using hex brass bolts need the screwdriver that goes with each bolt head size. Knupfer of Germany is my preferred seller.
The completed side skirts are installed. The Combat Identification Panel (CIP) is hanged there just for display purposes. They are not installed yet.
The model is very heavy, currently at 9.5 pounds fully loaded. Its not just the metal tracks, all that extra armor adds up like the real thing. I am noticing the suspension is having a hard time despite augmenting the size of the torsion bars on 3 rows. I will have to change the torsion bar on the remaining two middle rows of wheels, and maybe give more torques on the others. Looks like the model could be 3mm too low right now. In any cases, the torsion bars that came with the kit were way too weak, even without any mods.
The vehicle construction is mostly completed. Here is a walking around with some close ups, notice it is dusty. And i am noticing i missed one attachment at the bottom left.
Continuing on following post
Thanks, yes, this build was stressful, i never know exactly how its going to turn out. Potential mistakes can be made at every construction steps. I do have a lot of experience with building AFV with interiors (four M-113, Marder 1A1, BMP-1) but the rotating basket is always a challenge, and the limited space left for the electronics is also very restricted. Thankfully, the Bradley is a large vehicle. The satisfaction was high when i saw that turret basket rotating...
I am in the final stages of construction
Next are the side skirts.
As seen in the Sabot book on M2A3, the side skirts are covered with attachment points for crew and soldiers personal equipment. There are 4 types of attachments (1 to 4 points). I used the graph below for instructions as to which ones go where. But i have a feeling it is up to the crew to decide which ones they want to put on their tanks and at what location.
The kit provides more than enough attachments of each types for any configuration. Below is the sprue with the 4 points. A few are defective but it does not matter because about only half are used.
I decided to attach them with M1 x 4 and M1 x 6 brass bolts with washers. I had hundreds of these bolts on inventory when i started the build and it used all of them, i just barely had enough.
The attachments on the bottom row we given a 6mm long bolt because they are the ones holding the skirts against the upper hull. I small hole was drilled all the way through the upper hull cover in order for the bolts to screw into the hull and keep the skirts solidly in place. If needed, the skirts are removable. Not sure what kind of glue could have been used to glue the 3D printed skirts against the hull but i determined i did not have any glue that could have done the job. There is something about 3D SLA part that sometimes is impossible to glue, no matter how much or how long you take.
Of course, any one using hex brass bolts need the screwdriver that goes with each bolt head size. Knupfer of Germany is my preferred seller.
The completed side skirts are installed. The Combat Identification Panel (CIP) is hanged there just for display purposes. They are not installed yet.
The model is very heavy, currently at 9.5 pounds fully loaded. Its not just the metal tracks, all that extra armor adds up like the real thing. I am noticing the suspension is having a hard time despite augmenting the size of the torsion bars on 3 rows. I will have to change the torsion bar on the remaining two middle rows of wheels, and maybe give more torques on the others. Looks like the model could be 3mm too low right now. In any cases, the torsion bars that came with the kit were way too weak, even without any mods.
The vehicle construction is mostly completed. Here is a walking around with some close ups, notice it is dusty. And i am noticing i missed one attachment at the bottom left.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Thu Jan 05, 2023 11:50 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
View of the interior ramp on the real Bradley
I added missing details that i could. Some adaptation was required in order to fit the base model.
Continuing with the walk around
Added bar on the side of the driver.
On both sides of the skirts at the front, there is a small armored plate that is going on top of the skirts. There was no way to glue these bitches no matter what i tried. I had to remove the fake screws and bolt the plates using 12mm long steel bolts all the way into the hull.
Continuing with the following post
I added missing details that i could. Some adaptation was required in order to fit the base model.
Continuing with the walk around
Added bar on the side of the driver.
On both sides of the skirts at the front, there is a small armored plate that is going on top of the skirts. There was no way to glue these bitches no matter what i tried. I had to remove the fake screws and bolt the plates using 12mm long steel bolts all the way into the hull.
Continuing with the following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Thu Jan 05, 2023 11:53 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Ammo box holders and antenna bases added to the turret.
There was no way to glue the tow hook. The pin was too small for the corresponding hole on the ramp. I had to redo the attachment, and used a screw to solidify the hook as far into it as possible.
Exterior ramp with middle tow hook.
I gave periscopes to the driver's hatch interior.
These are the parts that remain to be put on the model, right before or after painting. They include all the tools, hooks, the two CIP panels and the hub caps.
I also have 3 figures to build for the model. They include the commander figure purchased from DKLM, and two soldiers purchased from Ebay China that will be modified to fit inside the rear compartment.
I put together the commander figure, minus the microphone that will be added later. It's of very nice quality and the modern uniforms and equipment fits the time period of the vehicle.
Pretty cool look.
I did some evening shots for fun, it gives a different look.
Continuing on following post
There was no way to glue the tow hook. The pin was too small for the corresponding hole on the ramp. I had to redo the attachment, and used a screw to solidify the hook as far into it as possible.
Exterior ramp with middle tow hook.
I gave periscopes to the driver's hatch interior.
These are the parts that remain to be put on the model, right before or after painting. They include all the tools, hooks, the two CIP panels and the hub caps.
I also have 3 figures to build for the model. They include the commander figure purchased from DKLM, and two soldiers purchased from Ebay China that will be modified to fit inside the rear compartment.
I put together the commander figure, minus the microphone that will be added later. It's of very nice quality and the modern uniforms and equipment fits the time period of the vehicle.
Pretty cool look.
I did some evening shots for fun, it gives a different look.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Thu Jan 05, 2023 11:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
The little lights for the interior lighting were easy to reproduce and look good.
Construction is almost done.
Prior to painting, it glows.
The interior is the highlight of the model. I will be adding a bulkhead at the front and put an image of the driver's compartment.
Servos inside the turret.
The Elmod board viewed through the driver's hatch.
The "Glow in the dark" model...
That's it for now. Next step is to adjust the torsion bars and build the figures. I am still waiting for the rubber plates to finish the tracks.
Regards, Louis
Construction is almost done.
Prior to painting, it glows.
The interior is the highlight of the model. I will be adding a bulkhead at the front and put an image of the driver's compartment.
Servos inside the turret.
The Elmod board viewed through the driver's hatch.
The "Glow in the dark" model...
That's it for now. Next step is to adjust the torsion bars and build the figures. I am still waiting for the rubber plates to finish the tracks.
Regards, Louis
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Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
It's a great build. I always wonder how much you have invested in hex head bolts over the years... I just bought a bunch from the former Smalescale hardware here in the US and they are not cheap.
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...