RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I have a video up here of my barrel recoil check it .
If you are using a Clark board with a servo it's usually J2 and it works straight out of the box, just plug and play but use a quality high torque/speed servo for that recoil hit like in real life a digital servo you can adjust to super fast recoil and set the return speed how you like it . If you're just using a physical thru the RX use the flap servo and same use a good servo. If you're just going thru a RX use a Helo setting as you could get all sorts of pop up effects with the extra channels and probably use the receiver/gyro for the 2 plane system the later Shermans had .

Cheers mate .

oddballseattle wrote:Looking great!! looks like you are using spyker also for the RC conversion. I am building Oddball's tank myself. I am working on the turret with the recoil action but don't know how to program that in my controller. Are you doing the recoil for the barrel?

Mr. Biasphere,

I see that it looks like you cut in half and spliced back together the lower (pink) hull stiffeners. Would you share your reason? I ask because I have the Spyker sets for my 1/6 Dragon kit.

Barry

BarryC wrote:

oddballseattle wrote:Looking great!! looks like you are using spyker also for the RC conversion. I am building Oddball's tank myself. I am working on the turret with the recoil action but don't know how to program that in my controller. Are you doing the recoil for the barrel?

Mr. Biasphere,

I see that it looks like you cut in half and spliced back together the lower (pink) hull stiffeners. Would you share your reason? I ask because I have the Spyker sets for my 1/6 Dragon kit.

Barry

That's not my tank mate that's Oddballs's I think.
This is mine if it helps ?

Nice project but why this particular (post-war) version?

Kaczor wrote:Nice project but why this particular (post-war) version?

With the kit provided the parts I can make with the 3D printer , it's attainable .
It's more than that as I've got the M4A3 Chrysler sound pack and some of these were obviously Chrysler builds
And just because I like it I guess. I can keep it an M4A3 75W for now and a change of paint and add a barrel and it's there swap out an engine cover for a M4 of some sort basically any large hatch welded chassis .
Cheers .

That looks great. I would love to have a 1/6 scale tank one day and this looks like a much more affordable and easier to build option than going the Armortek route.

Biasphere1 wrote:

BarryC wrote:

oddballseattle wrote:Looking great!! looks like you are using spyker also for the RC conversion. I am building Oddball's tank myself. I am working on the turret with the recoil action but don't know how to program that in my controller. Are you doing the recoil for the barrel?

Mr. Biasphere,

I see that it looks like you cut in half and spliced back together the lower (pink) hull stiffeners. Would you share your reason? I ask because I have the Spyker sets for my 1/6 Dragon kit.

Barry

That's not my tank mate that's Oddballs's I think.
This is mine if it helps ?

OOPS!!! Sorry

OOPS!!! Sorry [/quote]

No issue at all mate .
Did you print your parts or did you buy them from Ryan ?
I think what happens at that centre join for the hull stabilizers is some printers aren't big enough to print a complete stay so they do one at a a time then join them (I think) I have a huge printer so I'm good .
I'm printing right now I threw an idler arm out my fault , I'm a little ham fisted and where the hex rod received in the idler arm it broke .lol
Cheers .

B_Man wrote:That looks great. I would love to have a 1/6 scale tank one day and this looks like a much more affordable and easier to build option than going the Armortek route.

It's always going to be a plastic tank though , super light duty and they need quite a bit of reinforcing .The plastic tanks need to have the body sound deadened as they make a quite distinctive sound and it's terrible. The speaker though turned upside down and facing the floor bottom makes a really good deep sound though some upticks and some not so much upticks lol.
Cheers mate.

Biasphere1 wrote:OOPS!!! Sorry

No issue at all mate .
Did you print your parts or did you buy them from Ryan ?
I think what happens at that centre join for the hull stabilizers is some printers aren't big enough to print a complete stay so they do one at a a time then join them (I think) I have a huge printer so I'm good .
I'm printing right now I threw an idler arm out my fault , I'm a little ham fisted and where the hex rod received in the idler arm it broke .lol
Cheers .[/quote]


Yeah, my printer was not big enough, so I had to splice. It works fine this way.