RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I've got one of the new Heng long smokers that I tried to wired up today. to a 6.1S board, CN11 had the heating element and CN12 had the pump. I turned it on and there was just a noise like an electrical engine straining. Then the Control board started smoking and then smells terrible. now I can see black suit on the plugs and there appears to be no power going to the smoke unit. I am running a 2 Cell 7.4V Lipo.

Does anybody have any experience of this? anything I can do to rectify it?

https://www.forgebeartanks.com/store/p1 ... _Tank.html

Exact same thing happened to me. The 6.1 smoker output may be putting out too many volts for a 6v smoke unit.

there can be many causes? absence of oil in the smoker, or not asser? short circuit? pump motor blocked? or who forces ... don't think that the problem is due to the type of battery, insofar as the voltage is sensibly identical, check your wiring ! the smoker does not have a direction of connection, the pump if .... aspires instead to drive back if badly connected!!!

Check with a multimeter, the output voltage on the smoker and fan sockets ?

Thanks guys. Good idea with the multi meter. Both channels put out 5.8V, when I turn the smoker off CN11 (Heater) drops off to 0 but CN12 still puts out 5.8V, sadly the board smells a bit when It's powered on.

The tank definitely had oil in it this was my fist time getting it up and running. don't think the pipe would have been blocked. I am no electronics expert but the neutral is wired to the metal casing, is it an issue if the metal casing was also on the bare metal hull?

CN 11 being the resistance of the smoker, seems normal that falls to 0 when stopped, on the other hand CN 12 (fan) should also fall (in my opinion) to 0? but if there is a voltage on CN 11 and 12? that would mean that the card is working? I don't think that being on the metal chassis is the cause? you looked on the motor, if the capacitors do not short circuit with the casing, or between plus and minus?

with the multimeter, Ohmeter function, check resistance value, if find a value, it's OK if nothing? resistance out of order, also check between red and then black wire, relative to metal casing if there is continuity? do the same for the motor, all of this disconnected of course

I just bought one of these. We will see if it works.

https://www.getfpv.com/vifly-shortsaver ... -xt30.html

Jofaur86 wrote:with the multimeter, Ohmeter function, check resistance value, if find a value, it's OK if nothing? resistance out of order, also check between red and then black wire, relative to metal casing if there is continuity? do the same for the motor, all of this disconnected of course

So I am not that experienced in electronics. So am simply reading off the screen now! Measures the motor contact points where there is no solder it is hard to get a stable reading but seems to float around 2-4 ohms. if I put the contact points on the solider. (literally mms away on the same metal I get a reading of 0.)

On the board I'll get 0 ohms if one the the point is on the metal casing and touching any of the 4 points. CN12 gives a reading of 33 Kohms. CN11 gives a reading of 6.5Mohms. I'm assuming its a milliohm and not a Mega ohm!

Hello,
Multimeter on Ohmes-meters position, lowest position 200 Ohms, measure between red and black wire, if displays a value with at least 2 digits, it is OK. If displays 0 or 0.3/0.4 smoker's resistance in short circuit (HS) for the pump, do the test with a 7.2 battery and two flying wires, see if it runs? red thread with the plus, if OK must feel the breath....try again by putting the black on the plus? indeed, nothing proves that the small Chinese respect the standardized colors and that the pump functions well as it should in the two directions?
I did not understand very well ? the measurements on CN12 and CN 11 ...these are measurements directly at the plate output?