LATE STUG,10PzGREN DIV,MORAVIA 1945

[HERMAN BIX]

Good vid Mr 43RR, I’ve also been following all their shows along the way.
We were supposed to put on an RC display over the weekend of Armourfest in ‘21 but the logistics killed it. Hoping to do it in the August one this year.
Having carried out welding work in a similar geographic location to them, I can state for the record that it’s NOT a pleasant job
I do like their dedication to using what scraps of original material they can, and even to end up with a static version of a tank out of ten smashed up remains of others is a credit to them.

I have bits for this on the way from Tank Modelblau so the wait begins.
Zimmerit is my next mission.
Studying the subject pictures again like an intelligence officer thru stereoscopic glasses(not really but you get the idea) the Zimmerit actually looks to be a mix of traditional Alket waffle pattern AND areas of plain waves as seen on a Tiger
There’s not a whole lot visible in the pics I have but what is visible creates an interesting conundrum.
I may take the route of putty and stamp for the waffle and hot screwdriver for the wave but use the licence of broken off compound to reduce the amount of effect I need to apply .
Cheating you say ??
Yip!
But there has to be a sensible balance of effort and booze intake Vs outcome

[HERMAN BIX]

The idler tensioner set up problem has been sorted.
As I've had these bit for actual years, and only now gone to use them, along with added/gathered bits along the way, it was bound to happen that stuff would not be right.
With the supply shortage down here I expect that the bits I do have are all a mix up of various brands, HL, Mato, Taigen, with no way of knowing.

Trip to the local engineers supplies today for an M5 tap and a 4.2mm drill.(I still dont have a clearance to drive due to my hoof, so the now 3.5 month bung-foot suffering Bride was again the Uber)
The metal idler mounts were drilled out to suit & the tap run through. Taking the bronze bushes out of the bearings in the idlers, fitting an M5 X 25 stainless button head cap screw into the mount solves all the component mismatch.
They didnt have any half-nuts I could use as lock nuts & nyloks were too thick, do a drop of PVA on the thread should hold it where I need it.
I dont need to be too fussy with things as the roadwheels I have dont even have any bearings or bushes at all!!.
Just straight on the axles & be done with it !!
It wont weigh a lot so with the infrequent running its likely to see, they should outlast me


What is it about the 'StuG' life................why does it choose who it does & why is it so hard to stop

[PainlessWolf]

Good Morning, Herman,
You show the slightest interest in or look crossways at a StuG or
Lord Forbid, actually 'work' on one,...you are among the Chosen. Welcome to the Life.
regards,
Your fellow Card carrying member,
Painless

[HERMAN BIX]

After being 'clean' for so long, I've fallen back into the StuG Life pretty quickly so it seems
Recidivist Offender.

I do have a question for all of you that are experts in the use & application of Miliput...............

I get how it works, its a 2-part chemical product that allows working time and cures a certain way,Ive used similar stuff in an engineering application ,but, why has mine got bits in it when kneaded that looks like a broken biscuit has gone into the shit & wrecked it
I have just done the lower hull thats hidden behind the Schurzen as a test and had much better results from Revell Putty.
Could it be old product? Is there a protective skin that needs to be removed prior to being mixed ?
Was I an awful child ? am I an even worse adult ?
Am I paying the price of Atheism ?.......................

No wonder Ive regressed hard into the "life" after the last hour

Miliput, follow the instructions & fail

Im off for a stiff drink & a lie down...............

[Tiger6]

it goes off after a couple of years, so best to get some fresh stuff. You can mix in the old stuff if you need to bulk up for internal filler or large sculpted parts.

Best way to apply zimmerit is to keep the marking tool wet and clean, and not try to do too much in one sitting as once it starts to harden you will not get the same results (I made that mistake with a Brumbaer, its easy to tell what was done when fresh vs the areas that had set a bit before I got to them!)

[Herr Dr. Professor]

"I have just done the lower hull thats hidden behind the Schurzen as a test and had much better results from Revell Putty." I never was fond of Milliput; the stuff I had aged very fast. However, I know many who use it with great results.
How about doing all the Zimmerit with Revell putty? Revell is a venerated model kit name here in the US, but Revell paints (and such) are just now becoming available around here. Some other modelers are urging me to try the paints, saying that Revell paints spray like the now defunct, superb, Floquil paints.

[HERMAN BIX]

Good advice folks, thanks. I will get new stuff asap.
I will do the rest using an acrylic filler that has worked for me before. Its for gaps in houses, and I know how it performs.
Should be a lot more controlled than the unfamiliar Miliput for me anyway.

[HERMAN BIX]

Well, if nothing else, at least I now know what doesn't work....................

[EAO]

Was I an awful child ? am I an even worse adult ?
Am I paying the price of Atheism ?.......................

This made me laugh and laugh! I have these same thoughts....nearly daily. Perhaps we shall both burn in Hell for all eternity?!? Nah, never happen! Despite what my Mother, and Wife think!

Carry on, and sweat not the future!

Cheers,
Eric.

[HERMAN BIX]

And carry on I shall
Installed & tested the 6.1s today.
Had to search through instructions as this one was set to the option 2 stick control which threw me a bit !
Thanks to Mr Abramsky for making it very easy to understand & fix.
I also got a Notek fitted & tested, which with my new understanding of the control methods of the 6.1s it can turn on & off easily from the transmitter.
My servos still have not arrived, so Im going to use the OEM H/L elevation unit(which is ok) and just do servo recoil.
Its getting there, but compared to the recent progress, seems very pedestrian
Something tells me that with the key parts coming from Germany, and the expected delay on those, plus the Zimmerit needing to be done the old fashioned way that this will fall into a lull for a bit then pick up again.