RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
- HERMAN BIX
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Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
We need a "shakes head and puts hand on forehead" emogi !!
Im certain you could offer those .50BMG's built up for sale & get a lot of takers Mr Mcq11
Im certain you could offer those .50BMG's built up for sale & get a lot of takers Mr Mcq11
HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
Thank you Mr Bix. For the $10 that it costs, the Aber 16L04 set for the Tamiya Browning M2 is one of their best deal, creating a finely detained machine gun compared to the alternatives that are sometimes really terrible for such an exposed item. After quite a few conversions, what was taking me hours and lots of cursing on my first attempts years ago now takes me about 30 minutes and i use every PE parts, not just the incredibly good looking barrel sleeve. Continuing with the build.HERMAN BIX wrote:We need a "shakes head and puts hand on forehead" emogi !!
For gun elevation on such externally installed machine gun mount, i had no other choice than to use an exposed pull rod. I had to compromise accuracy for the elevation. The alternative was a static machine gun... As it is the main armament on this vehicle, static was not an option for me. As planned, a micro servo is installed under the rotation wheel and linked to the machine gun mount with a small pull rod, actually a section of Heng Long antenna.
The connection under the gun mount. I tried to make it look as best as it can under the mount, and is partially hidden by the large spring on the side.
In this view, you can see the wire end to end from servo to gun mount, going through the cupola. The wire is flexible and will bend for a good elevation and lowering of the machine gun.
The gun mount has a travel lock mechanism, raised here but can be lowered and locked into the bracket at the back.
Reproduced in 3mm wide brass strip soldered to brass tubes on both ends, with bolts for the attachments on both sides. It is functional.
I will leave it in stored position. Looking good.
A Browning M2 needs ammo to look really impressive. The Tamiya model is the only one i know that offers the ability to realistically load the ammo into the receiver. Some grinding of the interior is required however to make the 3rd party ammo fit correctly inside.
As ammo box, i recommend the LiveResin LRE-16002 opened box. The brass ammo fits better inside this box than with the Tamiya ammo box, which is too small inside with thick walls. As the M113 is a cold war vehicle, i used WW2 boxes that would very likely still have been in use in the 1970s.
continuing right away on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Thu Nov 04, 2021 11:51 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
The Browning M2 is begging for ammo. Notice the flash wires on the right going inside the cupola, then strait down to the interior of the vehicle, next to the elevation servo.
View of real 12.7mm linked ammo for the M2. Notice the structure of the links that holds the ammo, with a narrower finger at the front, the larger at the back.
The 30 rounds of ammo coming with the 1/16 Aber set 16 130 are truly amazing. Only the tips need to be painted copper. I used them on the GTK Boxer build last summer and i was really impressed. These will figure in all my future builds that has a Browning M2.
The links need to be detached and handled individually, something that will scare a lot of people, myself included the first time around. Sadly, Aber did not produce them in a more realistic color that would have avoided painting these later.
I have evolved my technique to assemble them. First, forget about using the jig that Aber proposes on the instructions, it does not work.
The first task is to fold the links. I have improved the process, I now do the folding in two steps.
First step, create two 1.5mm rods to use as a tool. Place centrally over the links.
Using the tip of a blade, gently fold the fingers over the rods on both side. This pre-shapes each fingers in preparation for the second step.
Second step, do the same thing with 1mm rods, a tad smaller than the ammo. If you do the folding strait to the 1mm rods, it will many times bend the fingers instead of giving them a nice continuous curve. The fingers of the links are too long to fold them completely over the 1mm rod in one single movement, creating tons of issues.
I figured that a belt of 18 ammo is required for a simple presentation of the ammo in the opened box and all the way inside the M2 receiver, leaving 12 ammo for other builds.
Marry two links together and slide the ammo through the central hole, up to the required depth. The ammo is larger than the formed links so it will slide in place with some pressure and the links will hold the ammo temporarily in place until all ammo can be aligned, and all fingers checked, repositioned correctly and aligned. Then some glue applied to the underside of the belt will keep them there.
And after no more than 3 medium level curses and a couple of mental health breaks, here we have an 12.7mm ammo belt for the Browning M2, done in about 2-3 hours end to end. Not perfect but keep in mind these are really small. I had to put two pairs on glasses on to see anything a bit more clearly. Yeah, there are simpler alternatives but they do not look as good. Plus, I like the challenge.
continuing on following post
View of real 12.7mm linked ammo for the M2. Notice the structure of the links that holds the ammo, with a narrower finger at the front, the larger at the back.
The 30 rounds of ammo coming with the 1/16 Aber set 16 130 are truly amazing. Only the tips need to be painted copper. I used them on the GTK Boxer build last summer and i was really impressed. These will figure in all my future builds that has a Browning M2.
The links need to be detached and handled individually, something that will scare a lot of people, myself included the first time around. Sadly, Aber did not produce them in a more realistic color that would have avoided painting these later.
I have evolved my technique to assemble them. First, forget about using the jig that Aber proposes on the instructions, it does not work.
The first task is to fold the links. I have improved the process, I now do the folding in two steps.
First step, create two 1.5mm rods to use as a tool. Place centrally over the links.
Using the tip of a blade, gently fold the fingers over the rods on both side. This pre-shapes each fingers in preparation for the second step.
Second step, do the same thing with 1mm rods, a tad smaller than the ammo. If you do the folding strait to the 1mm rods, it will many times bend the fingers instead of giving them a nice continuous curve. The fingers of the links are too long to fold them completely over the 1mm rod in one single movement, creating tons of issues.
I figured that a belt of 18 ammo is required for a simple presentation of the ammo in the opened box and all the way inside the M2 receiver, leaving 12 ammo for other builds.
Marry two links together and slide the ammo through the central hole, up to the required depth. The ammo is larger than the formed links so it will slide in place with some pressure and the links will hold the ammo temporarily in place until all ammo can be aligned, and all fingers checked, repositioned correctly and aligned. Then some glue applied to the underside of the belt will keep them there.
And after no more than 3 medium level curses and a couple of mental health breaks, here we have an 12.7mm ammo belt for the Browning M2, done in about 2-3 hours end to end. Not perfect but keep in mind these are really small. I had to put two pairs on glasses on to see anything a bit more clearly. Yeah, there are simpler alternatives but they do not look as good. Plus, I like the challenge.
continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Thu Nov 04, 2021 11:37 pm, edited 6 times in total.
Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
The M2 Browning is loaded with the ammo belt. As mentioned, some grinding of the Browning internals is required to fit the ammo and close the latch correctly. I had previously made a hole that exposes the yellow LED inside to the ammo feeding mechanism, it will provide fire lighting effects from the breech in addition to the tip of the barrel when the machine gun is.fired. I did the same on the GTK Boxer and it looks real cool. The rate of fire on the TK22 is also realistic for the M2. I’ll provide a video of that later.
The ammo belt is temporarily dropped in place for demonstration purposes. After painting, real care will go into making sure each ammo on the belt are realistically positioned.
The model as it stands today.
Next step, the head lights.
Regards, Louis
The ammo belt is temporarily dropped in place for demonstration purposes. After painting, real care will go into making sure each ammo on the belt are realistically positioned.
The model as it stands today.
Next step, the head lights.
Regards, Louis
Last edited by lmcq11 on Thu Nov 04, 2021 11:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- 43rdRecceReg
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Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
Sheer perfection, in every visible detail. Could you please post a terrible mistake just once, Louis, to prove that you're actually human, and not some modelling demi-god?
"Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please"- Mark Twain.
- Kaczor
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Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
Amazing details as always and fantastic pictures as well
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Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
For those into Terry Pratchett. I think Mr Imcq11 is the Oh! God of modelling. The speed and skill with which you build, makes the rest of us meer mortals.
Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
Thank you gentlemen,
I really started scratch building only in 2017 after decades of kit bashing panzers and do what everyone does. I got tired of it though. Yes, there is a point in time where you actually get fed up with Tigers, Panthers, Panzer III and IV variants, etc. My hobby now is to scratch build stuff i have not seen before, go fast and achieve good results without going into anything that will get me bogged down. Skills and rapidity do improve with practice but a lot goes into planning months in advance, perform do-ability analysis on each components, and once i am ready, ensure i have the right material when i need it.
The following 2 posts are for the head lights and tail lights.
Overview of the Lynx Headlights and guards to reproduce.
I am using modified metal Mato Sherman headlights as a base. The main issue with these is that the back is not detailed, only the front is provided. The two dummy turn lights are the plastic parts of the Classy Hobby M5A1 that i replaced by working metal light on that build. I am not making turn lights functional.
Basic installation and wiring go fast.
I wish i could have done the guards in brass strips but it is not possible for me to do pronounced curves on the vertical side of a thick 2mm brass strip. Plasticard will have to do.
Checking dimensions
After second thoughts, i decided to do something about the back side of the Mato lights. Can't leave headlights like this with the LED and wires sticking out and so much exposed.
A large solid plasticard rod is used to carve some shapes with a nail file to apply to the back of the lights. The interior is drilled with a drill bit.
What i thought would take me hours only took 15 minutes to create four stubs. After gluing the add on section, putty is used to fill the gaps, and then everything is polished. Once primed, it should be seamless. A secondary benefit is that light from the LED will not come out from the back.
The guards are installed.
Continuing on following post.
I really started scratch building only in 2017 after decades of kit bashing panzers and do what everyone does. I got tired of it though. Yes, there is a point in time where you actually get fed up with Tigers, Panthers, Panzer III and IV variants, etc. My hobby now is to scratch build stuff i have not seen before, go fast and achieve good results without going into anything that will get me bogged down. Skills and rapidity do improve with practice but a lot goes into planning months in advance, perform do-ability analysis on each components, and once i am ready, ensure i have the right material when i need it.
The following 2 posts are for the head lights and tail lights.
Overview of the Lynx Headlights and guards to reproduce.
I am using modified metal Mato Sherman headlights as a base. The main issue with these is that the back is not detailed, only the front is provided. The two dummy turn lights are the plastic parts of the Classy Hobby M5A1 that i replaced by working metal light on that build. I am not making turn lights functional.
Basic installation and wiring go fast.
I wish i could have done the guards in brass strips but it is not possible for me to do pronounced curves on the vertical side of a thick 2mm brass strip. Plasticard will have to do.
Checking dimensions
After second thoughts, i decided to do something about the back side of the Mato lights. Can't leave headlights like this with the LED and wires sticking out and so much exposed.
A large solid plasticard rod is used to carve some shapes with a nail file to apply to the back of the lights. The interior is drilled with a drill bit.
What i thought would take me hours only took 15 minutes to create four stubs. After gluing the add on section, putty is used to fill the gaps, and then everything is polished. Once primed, it should be seamless. A secondary benefit is that light from the LED will not come out from the back.
The guards are installed.
Continuing on following post.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Sat Nov 06, 2021 11:47 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
Overview and close ups on the head lights.
The different size of braces at the front is no mistake.
The dimmed light is made non functional with the same plasticard solid rod and installed at the back of the set on the left side where it should be.
The rear lights on the Lynx. As these are on the back, i usually give less attention to it.
Modified metal Mato Sherman tail lights are used with a base made of brass strip.
Tail lights installed and functional.
This is the model as it stands today.
Next step, the smoke grenade dischargers.
Regards, Louis
The different size of braces at the front is no mistake.
The dimmed light is made non functional with the same plasticard solid rod and installed at the back of the set on the left side where it should be.
The rear lights on the Lynx. As these are on the back, i usually give less attention to it.
Modified metal Mato Sherman tail lights are used with a base made of brass strip.
Tail lights installed and functional.
This is the model as it stands today.
Next step, the smoke grenade dischargers.
Regards, Louis
Re: RC 1/16 M113 Lynx C & R - Canadian army 1970s UN mission
Hi,
This post is for the Smoke grenade dischargers.
View of the real thing. This is the first time i have to build these. The shapes are not obvious, looking different depending on the picture. Such part is not available on the market. The larger ones used on the M1A1 are similar in nature but much bigger with more tubes. I'll try my best to make something that looks like this.
The structure is analysed and basic parts are summarily created.
Dimensions are also tentative. The 1/35 kit did not capture the shapes correctly and i am not sure about the dimensions either.
Basic shapes
For the curves on the lower body, plasticard strip residue is glued and will be shaped with a round chain saw metal file.
Here we are, not perfect but it will do.
Close up to see the structure of the plasticard used, with no putty. I prefer to soak holes with superglue and then i use a file nail file to sand the part while the glue is still wet, which mixes superglue with plasticard particles for the best filler available. Then everything is polished for a solid and smooth seamless finish. Not obvious here but it will look good after primer coat and some more polishing if required.
Smoke grenade dischargers are installed on a brass base. It seems to be they might be 1 or 2mm too long, not sure yet. Dimensions are a good match for the 1/35 kit butt i need to compare against more pictures. I will look into it tomorrow. I am not totally satisfied.
The model as it stands today.
Regards, Louis
This post is for the Smoke grenade dischargers.
View of the real thing. This is the first time i have to build these. The shapes are not obvious, looking different depending on the picture. Such part is not available on the market. The larger ones used on the M1A1 are similar in nature but much bigger with more tubes. I'll try my best to make something that looks like this.
The structure is analysed and basic parts are summarily created.
Dimensions are also tentative. The 1/35 kit did not capture the shapes correctly and i am not sure about the dimensions either.
Basic shapes
For the curves on the lower body, plasticard strip residue is glued and will be shaped with a round chain saw metal file.
Here we are, not perfect but it will do.
Close up to see the structure of the plasticard used, with no putty. I prefer to soak holes with superglue and then i use a file nail file to sand the part while the glue is still wet, which mixes superglue with plasticard particles for the best filler available. Then everything is polished for a solid and smooth seamless finish. Not obvious here but it will look good after primer coat and some more polishing if required.
Smoke grenade dischargers are installed on a brass base. It seems to be they might be 1 or 2mm too long, not sure yet. Dimensions are a good match for the 1/35 kit butt i need to compare against more pictures. I will look into it tomorrow. I am not totally satisfied.
The model as it stands today.
Regards, Louis
Last edited by lmcq11 on Sun Nov 07, 2021 11:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.