RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I converted a 1/16 TORRO RC tank (Prometal Edition: metal chassis, turret, wheels, tracks) into a Tiger II tank of the German 505th Heavy Tank Battalion, famous for its assaulting knight's unit mark. There are three problems with the appearance of TORRO's Tiger II. -Zimmerit coating is applied only to the vehicle body side and not to the turret. (Does not exist in actual tanks) The gap between the main gun Zaucop (shield) and the front of the turret is too large and extends. -The pistol port at the rear of the turret is omitted. The Zimmerit coating has been reproduced on the metal turret with epoxy putty and a minus screwdriver. Rollers cannot be used like the 1/35 scale model, but the minus screwdriver was just the right size. For the modification of the distance between the shield and the turret, I added and processed plastic material on the shield side with reference to the photograph of the actual tank so that it would be in the same state as the actual tank. The mounting brackets for OVM etc. use the etched parts of the Voyager model, and the MG gun mount and ammunition bag of Commander's Cupola are not good on the market, so I made them by myself with brass material etc.
This battalion's Tiger II was launched before April 1944, so the bolted circular armor flange cover has not yet been attached to the air intake in the center of the engine compartment of the King Tiger belonging to this battalion, and the circular opening is The meshed cover is bolted. (The armored flange cover was bolted to vehicles manufactured after September 1944.) Therefore, the original circular flange cover was removed and remodeled so that the mesh cover was bolted. The historical evidence here is the part that I was particular about. The RRZ spec track recoil of TORRO Tiger II is too intense, so I inserted a resistor in the ATRC to adjust the recoil amount. The light emission timing of the main gun has also been changed so that it is just before the start of the gun recoil.

My TORRO TIGER II Pro Metal Edition is a used item that I got at an auction before. I attached the USM-HL2 sound board to this and improved the details, but the main gun recoil is still RRZ. RRZ has been in good condition without any trouble, but the body recoil is terrible. It's like a tank jumping up when firing. So at that time, I bought an anti-recoil circuit (ATRC) named MRM-02 from Tank-Modellbau to prevent it from track recoiling. This circuit is made by myself in order to raise it cheaply after this. However, I thought that it was not enough that there was no track recoil at all, so I inserted a resistor in this anti-recoil circuit and adjusted the amount of track recoil.

You can swap the mfu (board) for a Taigen v3 type with a simple recoil switch. You can purchase zimmerit sheets in 1/16 to complete the rest of the tank. There are many improvements that need to be made to this model and they are all detailed in the forum.

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Thanks for your comment. The barrel servo recoil is possible with the sound board currently installed in this model, but since the RRZ is not broken yet, I am leaving it as it is now. If the RRZ fails, I plan to replace it with a structurally simple servo recoil.
The zimmerit sheet for 1/16 scale has shallow uneven carving and I was not satisfied at all.

Very, very nice paint and weathering work on this Tiger, Mr. K.

SCHWEREPANZER wrote:Very, very nice paint and weathering work on this Tiger, Mr. K.

Thank you very much.

A very noble and well executed model Mr K, so much to be proud of.
Thanks for sharing

Great work , well done.

I installed a brake light on the back panel of the Torro Tiger II. However, I don't know if this part of the real Tiger II tank is a brake light, just a reflector, or a back light.

I repaired the smoke generator (heater disconnection) of TORRO Tiger II, but the method was to bundle several threads, stretch them tightly, and wind a 0.2 mm diameter nichrome wire. Both ends of the nichrome wire are crimped by bending a metal strip to sandwich the nichrome wire. This metal strip is soldered to the original base. I don't know if this method is good, but ... It is difficult to find the proper resistance value for nichrome wire here. Especially when the pump that sends out smoke and the heater are connected in parallel, if the resistance of the heater is low, the rotation of the pump will be too low, and conversely if the resistance of the heater is too high, the amount of smoke will be small. When the heater resistance is set to about 3?, smoke is emitted, but after a while, the sound board detects an overcurrent and the system goes down. Right now it's about 6?. I think a flame-retardant string is really good, but I don't have one, so I use ordinary sewing thread. On the other hand, on the back of this Tiger II, the tank distance indication light (blue chip LED inserted) and the brake light (red cannonball type 3mm LED) can be turned on. The brake lights are turned on only for 5 seconds after the vehicle stops. However, I don't know if this part of the actual Tiger II is really a brake light, a mere reflector, or a reverse lamp.?It's too small to see this part from a photo of a real tank at the time, and most tank museum tanks have had this part removed, leaving only traces of something attached.
If anyone knows about this, please let me know.