RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I’ve just installed a v6.0 MFU into a Matorro King Tiger and I have a couple of queries

1. Given that I’ve not seen the tank powered up before I bought it I’ve wired the headlight directly to a plug and plugged it in. It doesn’t work. Do I need a resistor? I have previously fitted Taigen headlights into a HL Tiger 1 and they worked without. It might be that the fitted headlight in the King Tiger is broken but LED’s normally last forever but it just might be broken?
2. I have wired the gun elevation motor and the bb fired up with individual twin wire plugs but when I fire the gun, the bb firer works but there is no ‘bang!’. Did I need to do something else?
Thank you
Simon

Assuming it's the correct voltage coming out of the MFU where your headlight is plugged in, and it has the correct current limiting resistor built in, are you sure you have the polarity the correct way around in the little plug?

1) Are you sure you have the polarity right? LED's only work one way around. Not sure on the resistor, but it wouldn't hurt to have one in there - adding one now after you have potentially blown the existing LED won't help in the short term however... Dave has prewired metal replacements if you think you have popped it.

2) not sure, it might be expecting a microswitch to trigger the sound? hopefully somebody else knows.

If you have a meter, I would suggest you check what voltage you have and which way around the polarity is coming from the two little pins you're plugged into on the MFU.

A few points here, LEDs have two wires coming out the back,
One is longer than the other, knowing which is which will tell you which is positive and which is negative,
The Heng Long Version 6.0 control board has a light selector switch so merely plugging in to the correct socket will not work if the switch has not been activated,
Indeed most secondary services on the Heng Long version 6.0 MFU are switch activated so just because everything is plugged in does not mean it will immediately come to life, it has to be switched on.

I’m away from home right now so I’ll check it later. I know what you mean about led’s only working one way - it’s a diode. Hard to tell which pole is which as already installed so you have a 50:50 chance of getting it right. Normally it should flash as soon as you turn the main power switch on.
I’ve never understood this microswitch thing. There is no recoil on the barrel but there is a ‘trigger’ socket with a v6.0 MFU so do I need to plug that into something?

For the LED connections, make sure you have the +ve leg of the LED hooked up to the +ve pin on the TK 6.0 (outside edge pins).
The +ve leg (anode) of an LED is longer than the -ve leg (Cathode). The polarity also can be visually identified by the following:
1. The Anode (+ve) being the smaller bottom triangular portion of the LED
2. The Cathode (-ve) has the flat edge (if present)



With the BB unit did you connect the "Trigger" CN6? That is the signal to the MFU that the gun has "fired" and triggers the sound and recoil effects.

looks like the quickest and easiest way to get the main gun to fire would be to replace the BB unit with a newer one with the microswitch already fitted: https://www.forgebeartanks.com/store/p9 ... _Tank.html

If the BB gun has a microswitch attached you plug it into cn6 if it doesnt make a jumper and plug it into cn6 this will give you the gun fire sound instantly but the BB gun will still take time to wind up to get them working as they should you will need to replace the BB gun with 1 that has the microswitch fitted in the back of it

Jarlath,

Thank you for the LED polarity and HengLong 6.0 images. I snatched 'em both immediately. I was once told ho to check polarity of an LED by looking at it, but I forgot (an age limitation). Although, as you may know, I have more RC Tiagen/Torro tanks than Heinz has varieties, I just got a HengLong with the 6.0 board, so I really appreciate that image.

Ed