RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Tiger6 wrote:

SCHWEREPANZER wrote:Don't know whether this helps or not, but if you remove the battery cover, you'll find 5 screws....which may or may not be germane to the discussion.

These will be for the control board and receiver.

Yes, I saw those and thought they were too small to be holding the hull together but, yes, very useful if the MFU has to come out!

Help,

http://www.hobbyhavoc.com/forum/index.php?board=39.0

Ah ha! That looks quite promising!! The back plate on mine is attached to the back of the engine deck so, sadly, a razor saw may be called for!
'Fetch me the bone saw!!'
Thank you!!

Shouldn't be, the back plate is screwed to the chassis - unless the previous owner glued it shut?

Tiger6 wrote:Shouldn't be, the back plate is screwed to the chassis - unless the previous owner glued it shut?

The previous owner seems to have 'glued it shut'! Apparently the original back plate was broken so it was replaced (HL maybe?) and the seller only wanted a static tank so the top and bottom edges of the back plate look like they have literally been heat welded to the lower hull and engine deck. So I'll free off the top join and the whip off the running gear - sounds easy - in theory! I can now see that the jack is missing and there are no rear mudguards so a bit of scratchbuilding may be required. It still looks great though!

Might be worth seeing if Dave can get hold of a complete rear hull assembly for you - that way you can risk writing off the 'less visible' part

If you are able to see where the glue was applied I would first use a "Debonder" there are a number of different ones available.

did you look under the wings? as advised, on the attached link, see the photo where the lower frame is held with one hand, we can clearly see the holes of the 6 fasteners seen on the upper part
http://www.hobbyhavoc.com/forum/index.php?topic=910.0

Well Tiger, I managed to whip the tracks off - for a change the pins came out of the tracks easily - and there were only two screws holding the top on either side. I was able to cut through the back plate/engine deck join with a scalpel very easily. So it has an RX18 MFU and two speakers!! And a smoker with pipes not attached to the exhausts! So I think I need to improve the back plate/ lower hull join and then make a clip to hold the top edge of the hull to the. Backplate. I bought 100 neodymium-whatever 5mm disc magnets yesterday for about six quid so I think magnets are the way to secure the hull in the future. The receiver has a 27 MHz FM crystal - I though HL crystals were AM? Maybe not. I could swap it for a real RX-18 receiver from my Pan-Tiger, and borrow the 7.2v battery pack to see if it actually goes! Chances are I will want an HL v6.0 instead. Would that be a straightforward case of unplug one, plug in the other? I’m not sure if Taigen do a KT soundboard or if they use a Tiger I? If they use a T1 then a V6.0 might be the best replacement?
Any thoughts?!!!

https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-tan ... tiger.html

Have a read through should help also has plenty of pics